SSR beta testers...lets talk

Marco said:
What year is the truck?

Marco
Click to expand...

2005.

With the heater grid disconnected from the relays I get the P0541 code, if I let the wait to start light go out before I start it. I believe it's looking for a voltage drop.

With the relays unplugged I get the other codes, by just turning the key on.

Paul
 
Mine throws that code to. Its a 07. Mine also throws a code for the fan since I have electric fans
 
Marco emailed this to me and asked that I post it for you guys to see.

He did some HL Timing dyno testing.. Here are the results.


c8c68b0c.jpg
 
Btw... Forgot to mention.

This is to show that you can go to far with timing and lose power, as well as not have enough..

Dyno is needed to dial it in.. This is the main point he wants to get across
 
yeah, you would need to try some levels in between 20 and 30, it might peak at 25 and then start back down but you would have no way of knowing without spinning the drums.
 
Thanks Dave for getting this pic on here for me!

OK, let's see...
The doted lines are the HP ones, the straight lines are torque.
PLEASE give them a close look!

First of all, these graphs differ ( power wise ) from the older ones because I have just replaced the nozzles with taller ones. Being that I'm still on the stock CP3 I have not gained any power but LOST power! That's due to the fact that the stock CP3 is just maxed out. @ 3500 RPM the RP is down to 22K!

Anyway, what I'm wanting to show you is not the max number but what happens when the timing is over advanced. Before you ask, nope there's no typo! The HLT's indicate exactly the power they belong to!

I have done 3 runs for each HLT. Except for the # 40. That one I have repeated only twice because I was affraid for my engine. I have waited about 20 minutes between each run to get the heat soak out of the engine.
The graphs I took were the middle ones. The difference between the best and to worst run is in the 5 Hp range anyway.

Now if you look at the Graphs you'll see that some power was gained going from HLT 20 to 30. HUGH power was lost stepping up from HLT # 30 to HLT # 40.

If I was on the dyno for the first time with my truck, I would then step down to HLT # 35 and see how that goes. Then decide if I need more or less timing.

Now to come to the point. As you can see, as the timing is raised, "some" power is gained. After a certain point, advancing the timing further the power loss is hugh.

I let you immagine how happy the engine is with an over advanced timing.
On the dyno the engine still sounded good with HLT # 40! BUT what was going on in the cylinders??? With too much timing the result will be only one:
BANG!

Now keep one last thing in mind. The difference in timing advance between # 20 and # 30 and then between # 30 and # 40 is exaclty the same. The first one provides the performance we're seeking for , the second one will hurt you in no time.

OK?

Thanks,

Marco
 
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Somewhere earlier I saw it said that after you find your sweet spot with timing on the dyno to back it down a notch since it will load harder on the street.
How much are we talking? Drop 1 number ? 2, 3, 4 ?
 
Once the sweet spot is identified on the dyno...
For drag racing, I would not step down a single notch.
For sledpulling I would dial back to loose about 30 ponnies.
For DD, I'd step it down to loose about 20 Hp.

The above should be in the 2-4 #'s range but it's hard to say. Everything depends upon the engine build.

Marco
 
I have been doing a bunch of testing. With the HL timing set at 12 or above, I get the surge/missing after the shift. The higher the HL timing the worse the surge/missing is. If I set it down to 10 it is very smooth after the shift. With the timing set this low, top end power is down somewhat.

I've tried HL duration settings from 10 to 30, and the same condition exists. Power of course goes up with duration. I've tried different rail pressure settings from stock to 30.

I loaded the TNT/r back in, and I don't have this problem with it at all. I just wanted to verify that something hadn't changed on my truck.

Paul
 
Hey gang,

I've just finished the SSR software with the latest Chrysler updates.
I also fixed a couple minor things.

1) The high idle is now enabled in all SW's.
2) Several codes are now deleted in all software's ( was missing in 2004.5 / 2005 / 2005.5 / 2007 )

Rather than having to send the SW to a lot of people, I have uploaded it to our website.

Here's the link to the software:
http://www.madselectronics.com/downloadfiles/SSR59V403AR11A.7z

You don't need to return your truck back to stock prior to updating the Smarty. Even more so, Smarty will retain all the levels you had selected during the update.

I've been asked which settings would be like the TNTR # 7 CaTCHER.
Granted, the SSR is not exaclty like the TNTR's were. Everything has been deeply redesigned. Here is what comes close enough to TNTR # 7.
HLD 15
LLD 30
HLT 33
LLT 10
HLRP 50
LLRP 50

Marco
 
what? who can get this? is this available for anyone with a POD unit ?????????
 
Marco,

I installed the update and made a few passes. I no longer have the problem during the shift. I worked my way from a HL Timing level of 10, and worked up to 30, and it work great. No indication of any kind of problem after the shift. I stopped at 30 until I get it on a dyno (hopefully tomorrow).

It pulls unbeliveablely hard from 2900 rpm to 3600 (my rpm at the end of the 1/4 mile).

Great job with the update and the product itself.

Paul
 
So Marco or Bob can't you give us an answer as to when the rest of us poor unimportant Smarty OWNERS can get the SSR software? Since neither of you will answer an email to the effect , I guess it will be at the same time as EFI Live is available !!!!!!!:poke:
 
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