Supercharger pulley

any actuated valve will have the same tuning issues he's having now, although they would be less prone to leakage than what he has now.
 
[ame="http://s815.photobucket.com/user/turbolvr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/147538d1386319482-33-37-4_zps71695fda.jpg.html"]147538d1386319482-33-37-4_zps71695fda.jpg Photo by turbolvr | Photobucket[/ame]

[ame="http://s815.photobucket.com/user/turbolvr/media/Mobile%20Uploads/147522d1386319471-33-37-2_zpsb2156826.jpg.html"]147522d1386319471-33-37-2_zpsb2156826.jpg Photo by turbolvr | Photobucket[/ame]
 
No doubt, I actually entertained the idea of knocking the shaft out so I could but the seals on backward. It's just pouring air out through the bearings on the TB. Even if I got the butterfly to seal they would leak anyway.


I have no idea why I never thought of a 4" cutout!!! Honestly, I'll probably be buying one tonight. :doh:

I'm jealous of the space the 2ndgens have between the hood and engine, my factory aftercooler actually had me sweating whether it would clear and it's only about 3" above the VC's. That's a beautiful setup, Carl. :bow: :clap:

The truck ain't too shabby neither. :D
 
I just sent them an email inquiring about a "stripper" model that just had the valve, no electronics or flanges. We'll see how that turns out.
 
Thank you for the heads-up and link to that thing, newsmoke , it didn't even hit me. :thankyou2:
 
No problem bud, you know there are guys on here that could probably make you a sweet little controller for that thing on the cheap... maybe something with a Hobbs switch and other voodoo
 
It's a total crapshoot whether the wiring harness on that truck will allow it to function normally or erupt into a smoking, glowing mass of melted copper and plastic when I turn on the key in the morning, no way I would trust any sort of complicated electronics to it.

Sometimes the regulator just doesn't want to control my alternator anymore and it usually ends up wasting at least 3 or 4 bulbs and anything I got too cocky with the fuse rating on. Let alone any other random bare wire or spot of corrosion that it just can't stop getting. The system isn't really hacked of anything, it's just really showing it's age.

I'd like to keep something like this fully manual Anyways, TBH. I'm pretty good at wiring troubleshooting but logic boards are way above my pay grade if something goes wrong. I like something like I've got now, where I can just pull off the controller and see if air is passing through the diaphragm of not. LOL
 
If you can build what you have, you can manage an arduinio with a pressure sensor and a variable rate solenoid to control whatever you need controlled. And it can function with much more finite control than a spring.

Reaper of Threads
 
So what is new....I am wanting to do something very similiar.....I am considering using a 'slightly' smaller turbo and I was wondering how things were progressing for you....Exhaust cut-outs are one way to do it ( I agree with the suggestion and thought)...
 
Not much, Carl have me a couple ideas on the correct way to make a bypass but I just don't trust my fab skills to make something that won't eventually fall apart and feed my compressor chunks of itself.

I did buy an exhaust cutout from QTP, they wouldn't come off a bare one so I bought an electric one, which was way cheaper than their wastegate controlled ones for whatever reason, and have it laying on the table when I get time to mess with it. It has little lips the butterfly sits onto, but it's hardly a sealed unit either. I've got an idea to try to get it a little better sealed, I'll update when I get around to it.

In the meantime, I've bought another Eaton actuator and a regulator to only allow 20psi into it, it's been working beautifully. Interstage boost will drop right to 0psi and stay there once the turbo spools, not even a slight waver into the vacuum.

I'm about to throw a set of DDP4's in my truck to see if my 5x14's are messing with my top end or my injection pump is retarding. Smoky, but you can really feel it lay down in 4th.

Boost is ~45psi and EGT's are ~1300. I used to be able to max the 1500* gauge easily but I've got the aftercooler working now too. Boost seems low but I've got a 188 cam and a ported head so I'm not sure what to baseline off of. There's a couple of pinholes here and there but nothing dramatic as far as intake leaks. Drive side is sealed tight.

Too much crap changed at the same time. =\

Regardless, it drives like a freaking champ in traffic. If it was an auto It would probably feel like driving a gasser around, it accelerates really nicely with no more hazing. The Getrag likes to make sure I remember that it is not a perfect yet. LOL
 
Tacoclaw said:
It's a total crapshoot whether the wiring harness on that truck will allow it to function normally or erupt into a smoking, glowing mass of melted copper and plastic when I turn on the key in the morning, no way I would trust any sort of complicated electronics to it.

Sometimes the regulator just doesn't want to control my alternator anymore and it usually ends up wasting at least 3 or 4 bulbs and anything I got too cocky with the fuse rating on. Let alone any other random bare wire or spot of corrosion that it just can't stop getting. The system isn't really hacked of anything, it's just really showing it's age.

I'd like to keep something like this fully manual Anyways, TBH. I'm pretty good at wiring troubleshooting but logic boards are way above my pay grade if something goes wrong. I like something like I've got now, where I can just pull off the controller and see if air is passing through the diaphragm of not. LOL
Click to expand...

Have you thought about wiring in an external regulator?
 
It has an external regulator on it factory, I moved it over to the passenger fender to get it out of the manifold heat, then gave it a relay'd signal voltage and a dedicated wire from its body to the ground post of the battery. Sometimes **** still happens with this thing though. I've done my best to tie up any loose wires and whatnot, but I'm no fool. This truck sits in the driveway at night and thinks of ways to make problems for me. :lolly:



What I have done is thought about swapping to a Ford-style external regulator. We put one on our Fummins, and it controls the field coil signal instead of the field could ground like the Dodge setup does. The voltage is 13.7-9 on that truck at all times, mine tends to hold in the 14.3-9 range lower since I did all the regulator mods, still a bit too high IMO.

The only good thing about the voltage being that high is it makes the windows move like lightning bolts. There wasn't a power window around that could touch that thing back when it was just under 15v. LOL
 
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Told you, here's my latest weekend project. A brake light that stopped working on the passenger side, one was a rubbed spot and another where the old man had used a damn Scotchlock on it and hidden it back in the split loom when he took it off.

This is why I can't have nice electronic things. :lolly:
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Now then, a curiosity question. I've got my bypass completely functional again with the cone filter back on the end of the tube. For a while there, I was running the bypass filter less and making around 45psi at 1300* max on a hard pull. ~ -1 psi interstage on the gauge. I put the filter on, and I'm now down to 40 psi at over 1500* on the same pull, -2psi interstage. I converted that to inHg, and it's jut barely over 4inHg, which is well within the green zone of most of those filter minders.

Truck runs like a banshee through 2nd, boiling the tires off at a roll, but you can feel it lose some steam in 3rd and 4th. My truck has 3.08 rears, so that may be contributing some, but I'm definitely not a part of the 4th gear rolling burnout crowd so I'm going to keep checking my system out.

I'm gonna swap to a set of DDP4's a buddy has to see if my injectors are giving me problems, then yank the blower and do a post-turbo leak check, then make a case pressure gauge and see if my timing is going retarded on the harder pulls.

I'll keep you all updated, but does anyone have thoughts on the vacuum numbers?
 
Really cool thread I've been trying to find more info on homemade blower/turbo setups. Did you convert your motor to the water cooled intake or was it a bus motor? I got a bus motor in my ford with the same setup. I may have missed it but what are you running for fuel with this setup?
 
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