Tractor tubes in your slicks?

VMAX

VMAX

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I was told that some tractor tubes can run in slicks....... $75 compared to $7 really sounds nice. Now I know what they say you get what you pay for but I felt it is all least worth talking about?

Anyone tried it?

Safe?

Sizes?
 
Plus if you get a nail hole in your slick, change the tube and tire is good. I dont know about you but I am not patching a slick and trusting it at 130mph.
 
What size tire and rim width? I can check at work tomarro, but im sure i can get an implement or skid steer tube the right size.
 
15x14 wheels. 32 x 14.5 size tire.

This is interesting...... Wonder if tractor types are real rubber and can take the heat? Obviously they are made for a slow rolling tractor.

From MT website.

MICKEY THOMPSON NATURAL RUBBER RACING TUBES


Besides being required for air retention, Mickey Thompson racing tubes can enhance reaction time, increase stability and helps the tire maintain the proper shape to reduce sidewall shock and deflection.

Note: Always run the correct size natural rubber tube for the application. The wrong tube type and size will always fail.
When buying tube type tires it is important to understand the reasons behind making a tire tube type and when it is appropriate to run the tire with or without a tube. The decision to run with or without tubes should be based on safety and performance, not cost.

The following information will elp in the decision making process
1. Air retension
Tube type tires are not guaranteed to hold air without a tube. If a tube type tire leaks, it is not defective. Tubeless tires use a liner molded into the carcass for air retention. This liner is usually omitted from racing tires, primarily for weight purposes.

2. Consistency
A tube aids in maintaining consistent air pressure. Therefore if consistency is the primary goal, as in Bracket Racing, a tube is always recommended.

3. Strength
The use of tubes makes the tires package more robust. This really comes into play with heavier vehicles running smaller tires. Because of this, they can extend the life of the tire saving money in the long run.

4. Weight & performance
In some cases it is acceptable to run a racing tire without a tube. When a car competes in a heads up class, unsprung weight, like a tire and tube, is an important factor This is especially true when it comes to a limited power combinations such as naturally aspirated engines. One pound of "unsprung" weight is equal to 8 pounds of "sprung" weight. Based on that, every 12 pounds of unsprung weight removed may gain as much as .01 seconds in quarter mile ET.

5. Cost
All M/T tubes are made of Natural Rubber and feature a clamp down valve stem. There are some inexpensive Butyl rubber tubes on the market, even with clamp down valve stems. Natural rubber is, by far, the better choice. It conforms to tire distortion better, dissipates heat, and it doesn't get brittle like butyl rubber. Therefore M/T natural rubber tubes offer superior performance and will last far longer with the ability to be re-used.

6. Safety
At a racetrack you must check air pressure regularly. This is important to maintain performance and to insure pressures are not too low. Low pressure can be dangerous. Never run tube type tires on the street without a tube. Leakage and the prolonged heat build up can lead to tire failure, serious injury or death. This is not a matter to take lightly.


MOUNTING PROCEDURES FOR TUBE TYPE TIRES
1. Check the valve stem hole in the rim. The hole must be 5/8". Note: If necessary to drill the valve stem hole in the rim, make sure the rim is de-burred and free of material and sharp edges.

2. Before installing new tubes pre-inflate the tubes to the approximate diameter of the tire. This will aid in filling the entire cavity of the tire by giving the tube a "stretch". Note: This will also aid in valve stem placement on wide rims where the valve stem is offset on the rim, but not on the tube.
3. Clean the bead and all interior surfaces of the rim.
4. Place wheel on tire changer following the equipment manufacturers instructions.
5. Mount bottom bead only on the wheel.
6. Insert tube in tire and partially inflate to make sure it is not "twisted". It will help to lubricate the tube with baby powder. If you're using a liquid lubricant on the bead, do not allow lubricant to run between the tire and the tube. DO NOT use anti freeze, silicones or petroleum based lubricants.
7. Align the tube valve with the valve stem hole in rim. Insert and center the stem in the hole.
8. Mount the top bead of the tire on the rim so that the bead in the valve area is the last part of the bead to go over the rim flange. Be careful not to pinch or move the tube. Re-center the valve stem, if necessary, by rotating both the tire and tube. After centering the valve stem install the valve stem clamp ring.
9. Inflate tire assembly slowly to seat tire beads. Do not exceed 35 p.s.i. to seat beads.
10. To prevent tube wrinkling, remove valve core to completely deflate the tube. Reinsert valve core and firmly seat it. It may be necessary to repeat this process to eliminate any wrinkles. Note: See second half of this bulletin for further details.
11. Reinflate assembly to proper pressure and check circumference of the tires to make sure they match before installing any rim screws into the tires. (See Tech Bulletin # 4 for proper installation of rim screws)

WHAT TO DO IF YOU FIND "LOW SPOTS" OR "WRINKLES" IN A TUBE TYPE TIRE
You may notice a "low spot" or "wrinkle in a tube type tire. (See diagram #2-A)This can be caused by one of the following:
A. Wrong tube size (too large or too small).

B. Faulty tube installation (wrinkles in tube).

To confirm the problem, you can do one of two things:
1. Break the tire down and rotate it on the rim. You'll note that the low spot, if it is still there, has not moved.

2. Break the tire down and remove the tube. Install a valve stem and inflate the tire. You'll note there is no low spot.

To correct the problem, first be sure the correct tube size is used. The proper tube is listed in the Mickey Thompson spec sheet. To eliminate wrinkles, the tube should be inflated and deflated during installation. If the wrinkle persists, you may need to lubricate the tube with baby powder and/or break the tire down and work the wrinkles out by hand.

Note: If the wrinkles are not removed or the wrong tube size is used, premature tube failure will occur.
 
I bet your running Micky's. They seem to always leak.
 
I remember this one time a very quick truck in the NW. It was being driven to the line for one of its last runs of the day. As it drove by I remember seeing this thing that looked like a balloon going around and around as it drove by. I rushed over and stopped the driver. I told him about this and asked him to roll forward. It was the tube coming out of the tread of the tire.

At first he thought I was joking. I am not one to joke. And for him to get out would take some time and not make his race. Its a good thing he turned around to the pits. Later on I was thanked as it was the tube sticking out of the tire. For sure this would have sent this truck into the wall if it even made it through the burnout box...

Not that this had anything to do with your post just a good story...
 
I'd stick with the racing tubes, I had friends that would try running whatever tubes they could find in the necessary size, and they would usually fail around the stem eventually. The M/T tubes in my gasser race car are 23 years old and still going strong. I'll probably replace them next time I replace tires and keep them as spares. One odd thing - I had a brand new one from the same era as a spare, it has just been sitting deflated all these years (while the other ones were on the car). The spare is dried up and cracked. Presumably exposure to the atmosphere is what killed it.
 
Michael said:
I'd stick with the racing tubes, I had friends that would try running whatever tubes they could find in the necessary size, and they would usually fail around the stem eventually. The M/T tubes in my gasser race car are 23 years old and still going strong. I'll probably replace them next time I replace tires and keep them as spares. One odd thing - I had a brand new one from the same era as a spare, it has just been sitting deflated all these years (while the other ones were on the car). The spare is dried up and cracked. Presumably exposure to the atmosphere is what killed it.
Click to expand...

Funny I have gone through say 4 in a year. But I also drive the slicks on the street like a dumb ass. Just can't seem to cough up $1800 for some matching pro stars and street rubber. The tube that is getting pulled out today had a valve stem leak. Had nothing to do with street driving.
 
I put a little talcum powder in there with the tube. Supposedly if you don't, the tire will kind of stick to the tube and tear the valve stem on a hard launch.

on edit, didn't see that the info you posted already states to use baby powder.
 
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Max what size wheels and bolt pattern you running? I have some prostars with sportmans on them.
 
Tractor Tubes are not natural rubber! I installed them in paddle tires instead of racing tubes but high heat at the drag strip I wouldn't trust them on my truck. If you do get a nail in the tire you still want to patch it because the tube will get pinched from the hole. Patches now of days have come a long way and I trust them at a high speeds and heavy loads
 
Runninlean said:
Max what size wheels and bolt pattern you running? I have some prostars with sportmans on them.
Click to expand...

15 x 14 Pro Stars. Dont remeber the bolt pattern. Will look. What you got?

8UPRACIN said:
Tractor Tubes are not natural rubber! I installed them in paddle tires instead of racing tubes but high heat at the drag strip I wouldn't trust them on my truck. If you do get a nail in the tire you still want to patch it because the tube will get pinched from the hole. Patches now of days have come a long way and I trust them at a high speeds and heavy loads
Click to expand...

I was forced to get a patch once on slick tire to get home. I was told to only use it to get home and had to actually shake on it before he would proceed.
 
They are 15" tall not sure on width apears to be 14" wide with 6' BS as they have 29.5/15.5/15LT MT sportsman tires in good shape mounted on them. They are 5 on 4.75 lug pattern.
 
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