Truckers, lets see your rigs!

SmokinCAT said:
PP is the last place you want to call to try and get advice, I gave them exact part numbers I wanted to use and asked if they would be compatible, their response was we don't give out part number. I mean really, I gave you the effin part numbers and you tell me that.
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SmokinCAT said:
I spent an hour on the phone talking with the guy that build my injectors and learned more about a big cam from him than reading all the articles from Bruce.
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jfaulkner said:
Lol, you probably gained 1mpg just by talking to Bruce on the phone! Even adding a POS Lipe clutch or a damper will gain you fuel mileage if "one mile Mallison" sells it to you. He lost all credibility when he makes 1mpg claims for everything. And he loves his ceramic coating which is a joke. The place that does the coating admits it's great to keep manifolds looking good but is a complete waste on Pistons.
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Hey, put away the pitch forks fellas. I didn't say the man was a Detroit God, just someone that I thought had a good reputation that could point BRE in the right direction. Apparently I was wrong.
 
Just last week I heard the truth about 1200 hp extrude honed twin turbo european champion winning truck race engine that Pittburgh Power build for a british racing team in the 80s or 90s. Or that was what Bruce wrote in his article. That team never won european championship, maybe british championship, but not with PP engine. Team member said that engine was so laggy that it was useless in road racing circuits and when it finally spooled it was so peaky that the truck lost grip immediately. It made maybe 900 hp, they drove a couple of races with it and sold it to some maltese drag racing team, I think they drove 17s with it.
 
SmokinCAT said:
I would like to never have to use them to buy parts, but they seem to be the only place that sells the balancer ring, and I want to use one after I rebuild this winter.
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That mercury filled balancer ? Forget it, it's useless. Normal damper does everything that is needed, those balancers are for wheels, not crankshaft.
 
BRE said:
Ehhh... I just need normal schooling lol. What's good, what's not, what to look for. Lol
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This is what I have copied from another board. I'd recommend ECM software from Quebec, and maybe some better turbo :

the cam i have had the best luck with is a R23525526 it is a 700 HP 12.7 cam..stock cam timing, 81mm injector height,.010 intake,.028 exhaust

u said u have a DDEC 3 engine with R5234795 injectors, i have had good luck with these in DDEC 2 engines..DDEC 3 &4 i would use R5235915 if u wanted a little more R5237014

Erich at SERIOUS SERIES 60 570-412-0754

I am running borgwarner 171702 myself and 5234795 injectors with Leon's 485+15% Ecm Program truck runs strong next will be a cam when I figgure which one.
The 23524912 cam has a injector height of .81mm and cam timing range of 5.03-6.10mm .0198-.0249 inches .The 23528308/309 cam looks like it would be a hotter cam to use as it has 82.1mm inj height and a timing range of 6.527-7.594mm 0.257-0.299 inch cam timing To me this looks like a real hot cam But I don't know I am just looking at the different specs on a chart I have. AMarine 12.7 cam 23525525/526 has a injector height of 81.0mm and a timing range of 6.17-6.78mm and .243-.267 inch to me the 23528308/309 cam would be a hotter cam to run

I am running the 485+15% ecm, and 825hp MTU injectors and a Michigan Stage 5 turbo. I am going to get 15:1 pistons, and we are thinking of machining them to 14.5:1. I am also thinking of running the MTU 825 cam. If I go that route, I'm going to try and get the 600 program at 15% over

825 hp cam and injectors : Camshaft is 23529008.
Injectors R5237473
 
rockytopcummins said:
Hey, put away the pitch forks fellas. I didn't say the man was a Detroit God, just someone that I thought had a good reputation that could point BRE in the right direction. Apparently I was wrong.
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I'm not saying Bruce isn't a smart guy or that he doesn't know how to build a good running engine. It's the snake oil salesman BS that has pissed on his reputation. Sell me what I want or actually need, not the gold plated turd that makes you the most money.....unless I called specifically wanting a gold plated turd. :Cheer:
 
Leiffi said:
Just last week I heard the truth about 1200 hp extrude honed twin turbo european champion winning truck race engine that Pittburgh Power build for a british racing team in the 80s or 90s. Or that was what Bruce wrote in his article. That team never won european championship, maybe british championship, but not with PP engine. Team member said that engine was so laggy that it was useless in road racing circuits and when it finally spooled it was so peaky that the truck lost grip immediately. It made maybe 900 hp, they drove a couple of races with it and sold it to some maltese drag racing team, I think they drove 17s with it.
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Never believed much of that, especially using their own parts.
 
jfaulkner said:
Lol, you probably gained 1mpg just by talking to Bruce on the phone! Even adding a POS Lipe clutch or a damper will gain you fuel mileage if "one mile Mallison" sells it to you. He lost all credibility when he makes 1mpg claims for everything. And he loves his ceramic coating which is a joke. The place that does the coating admits it's great to keep manifolds looking good but is a complete waste on Pistons.
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U don't like the Lipe clutch? I was just about to order one for my 03 Pete. I considered the Eaton 2050. I'm just worried I'll end up slipping it as well.


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tylerdillard said:
U don't like the Lipe clutch? I was just about to order one for my 03 Pete. I considered the Eaton 2050. I'm just worried I'll end up slipping it as well.


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They're great if you like to look like a rookie. Grabby pos! There's a reason Lipe went out of business. The 2050 or 2250 eaton will hold 800hp if you drive it right. I'm Thinking of making a 3-disk eaton.
 
I haven't seen much out of the lipe clutches that impresses me. The new eaton 2050s are hard to beat, and only thing I noticed that is different between a 2050 and 2250 is the 2250 has the 14 spline input.
 
I had herd they were grabby. I'll just try an Eaton then. I'm not sure where it's at on power. I would think close to 800hp. 6nz with PDI stage 2 tuning, camshaft, AirDog 4g, 059 injectors, and a 3.4 charger from Great Lakes


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SmokinCAT said:
I haven't seen much out of the lipe clutches that impresses me. The new eaton 2050s are hard to beat, and only thing I noticed that is different between a 2050 and 2250 is the 2250 has the 14 spline input.
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Friend just bought a 2250 eaton but didn't get a chance to compare the pressure plate to the 2050. He had a 6000# Lipe, pulled the extra springs out to make it a 2500# and it was still a grabby driveline killer.



tylerdillard said:
I had herd they were grabby. I'll just try an Eaton then. I'm not sure where it's at on power. I would think close to 800hp. 6nz with PDI stage 2 tuning, camshaft, AirDog 4g, 059 injectors, and a 3.4 charger from Great Lakes


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I would use a crower over a Lipe if I could make one work with a clutch brake. I'm waiting on some floater plates to see if I can cram a 3rd disk in an Eaton. An EasyPedal that would hold 1000hp would be awesome.
 
:st:
jfaulkner said:
Friend just bought a 2250 eaton but didn't get a chance to compare the pressure plate to the 2050. He had a 6000# Lipe, pulled the extra springs out to make it a 2500# and it was still a grabby driveline killer.
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From what I could tell the plate load was the same and the pad from the description just have the 14 spline center.

I would love a crower, just can't justify putting a clutch in that cost more than the truck. LoL
 
I'm not impressed with the Lipe clutches at all. There are two guys that pull in our club that run Lipe clutches and have put 2 or 3 of them in their trucks in one season. Now from what I've heard you can not slip a Lipe or you will destroy it. Which these guys are trying to run a higher gear than they can hold.

My father has been running a Spicer easy pedal in his Kenworth. All he knows is that is an easy pedal, no idea how long it's been in the truck or what kind of plate load it has. He has been pulling it for 6-8 years now and has only adjusted it once. Now it hasn't been a high horse engine but it who knows how many hooks it has on it.

I put a brand new 1400 ft-lb easy pedal behind my small cam this past winter, I'd be happy it was making 425 hp to the ground, made about 16 passes this pulling season and did not lose one bit of free play.

I'm building an 855 this winter for my puller, it will have a Spicer 2250 ft-lb easy pedal in it. Until I start destroying easy pedals every hook I'll keep using them. At that point I'll take the plunge and buy a Crower.


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Keep in mind the Crower is not a direct bolt in. You have to move the cross shaft in the bell housing. And only certain bell housings work. It's a tight fit.
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Has any one ever heard of these guys out of Brighton, CO?

http://m.indrebuild.com/cat-c15

I have a 6nz that has a probable blown head gasket and bad cam/followers. Looking fro options.

Peterbilt has a deal right now on rebuilding my engine. Labor cost of around $3200 plus parts, looking at about 19k to have them inframe with new cam and followers, plus new inj, head, etc. Problem is i still have a an engine with front seals and rear seals with 1.2 million.

I would like to just swap in a new reman but thinking the cost will be up around 27k for that. I'm running a tuned ecm from elite diesel and bigger charger.

Any suggestions?

http://instagram.com/p/sqlI4skKqs/?modal=true

in this truck...
 
jfaulkner said:
Keep in mind the Crower is not a direct bolt in. You have to move the cross shaft in the bell housing. And only certain bell housings work. It's a tight fit.
b5331fa572364cd3c7ad17c2063423d3.jpg
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I'm sure I'll figure it out someday. But my budget won't allow for a Crower this winter. Plus I dint think a big cam will make the power to warrant one...


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SmokinCAT said:
The 1.58 is the best thing you could have on that turbo.
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Why do you say that? Just curious because I had a s400 with a 84mm billet wheel and 88/96 turbine 1.32 exh housing. Last 400 miles and blew up. Showed signs of surge. I run 3.36 gears and go down the road appx. 1350-1450 rpm. Put a box stock 475 back on in place and has held together for about 20k miles.
 
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