VE rebuild with pics Look inside

[1stGen545]

I am going to do a right up on how to go threw your VE with tons of pics and step-by-step of how to do it and what to watch out for and how to get more power out of it. I have been into one a few times before and its not as bad as many people think. This should also help any one with a leaky pump that needs to reseal it. I don't have time tonight but here is a preview of what's to come.op:

 

[MikeThomas]

Your such a tease! I will be waiting....:woohoo:

 

[1stGen545]

Sorry I haven't done it yet this is the first time I have been on in 5 Days and it will only be for a min and these things don't right them selves. I got very busy after the 1st post. Sorry to get every ones hopes up but i will do It as soon as I can.

 

[1stGen545]

Well here goes.

This is not a FULL rebuild just enough to help out 99% of people that will get into there own pumps.

I am going to start with the pump removed. If You cant get the pump off You don't need to get inside it.

Well here is one thing you need to loosen the bolt with the small tab and remove the tab and snug up the bolt to lock the pump from spinning. Don't over do it it only has to be snug.

Well here the nasty thing is.

Here you can see the full fuel screw and lock nut on the bottom coming out of the back Just above it is the fuel return, you can also see the Idle adjustment screw and jam nut on the side of the pump. You can also see the Shut Down solenoid that is prone to failure. It can be removed and the spring and plunger taken out the reinstalled and use the manual shut down lever on the side of the pump. Above the fuel return is the Vent for the aneroid.

Lets start with the easy things remove the Allen head from the top of the throttle shaft and mark or note the position so that it can be indexed correctly when put back.

Remove the fuel pin and spring

 

[1stGen545]

10 pic limmet

Then remove the 4 bolts that holt the top on the pump.

Then slowly remove the top and watch for the spring under the top. It will not just fly out. This is your govener spring and it is attached to the throtle shaft and should be disconected so that you can remove the top.

Then remove it from the "Top Hat" and remove all of it from the pump.

You can now push the throttle rod out of the top and replace the O-ring.

This is the lever that many people grind to get even more fuel it is the other end of the lever that rides on the fuel pin. The lever beside it is the manual Kill lever.

remove the nut but hold pressure on the lever so that it dose not slip. Mark how the Kill lever indexes to the shaft and then remove the lever, spring and washer. then you can you will see the o-ring and can replace it.

 

[1stGen545]

You HAVE to keep the rollers and pins and thrust washers together.

Here you can see were they ride. The KSB pushes the black ring and rotates the rollers and advances your Timing buy making the cam plate ride up on the rollers and stroke the piston sooner in the rotation that pops the injector a few * sooner before TDC.

Now lets take the Head apart

This is how the piston fits in the head and builds the pressure. It also rotates like a distributor and delivers the fuel to the correct cylinder. It strokes every time the the cam plate rides up on the rollers.

You can remove the Shut down solenoid and replace the o-ring on the tip.

Then you can remove the DV's. YOU MUST KEEP ALL THE PARTS TOGETHER

 

[Dazed&Confused]

Very nice.

 

[1stGen545]

Well I have a lot more but I dont have the time. There is about 3X more that what I have so far.

 

[1stGen545]

Well Lets look at some Mods while were in here.[guitar]

Note I am in no way responsible if you do this and burn things up or get a ticket for excessive acceleration [coffee]

Lets start with fuel pins

Fuel pins do the same job as a cam plate on a P-7100 pump. They change how much fuel is delivered in relation ship with boost. As boost builds it pushes down on the diaphragm and pushes the pin down allowing more fuel. There is a spring under it that holds it up and is adjustable and can be set to speed up or slow down the fuel rate in relation to boost. turning the star wheel at the base clock wise will put less pressure on the spring allowing the fuel rate to increase at lower boost = more smoke at lower boost, Counter-clockwise will put more pressure on the spring and slowes the fuel rate at lower boost levels = less smoke at lower boost.

this is the small pin that rides on the fuel pin. It comes out from the front of the pump

the one on the left is a Bully Dog, center is stock, right is Denny T.

The stock one can bee turned were the eccentric cone is to the rear of the motor thus allowing the pin that rides on it to extend farther out and give more fuel. This is free and will give a noticeable bump in power.

The one on top is a Bully Dog the other is a Denny T. I ran both in my truck and found (like many others) that the Bully Dog made good power but was way to soft and gouged and would stick. The Denny T is maid from very hard SS and will just polish the area and is a lot cheaper. The Denny T pin gives a real boost in power over the Bully Dog and has held up great. DO NOT try to go cheep and make one from mild steel it wont last 100 miles if that[nonono]. There are others out there but I have not tryed them my self.

On the top cover (silver price on top of this pump) there is a Torx head screw that sets the starting depth of the fuel pin at 0psi boost. Ofter called the "Smoke Screw". It can be set deeper CW to give better take off power be for boost comes up but also creates more smoke. It can also be set for less low-no boost fuel and less smoke for pulling and or to compensate for large injectors to keep smoke under control.

 

[1stGen545]

GSK = 366 Spring = 3200 Governor spring kit

4200 Kit also available.

Starting with throttle linkage and springs removed ( shown how to earlyer)

Remove the 4 Allen head bolts that holds the top to the main case.

Slowly lift the top from the pump, you may hear a clock as the lever comes off of the full fuel screw but that's fine. The spring and other parts will not fly out just go slow. as it comes up you will See the spring and can remove it form the throttle rod and hold it while you set the top aside.

Then you can hold the "Top Hat" (pin with spring and washer that is connected to the other end of the gov spring) and remove the gov spring then the top hat.


This is how all the parts go together. Make sure you have them all.

while you are here you can grind the AFC lever to alow more fuel just like the fuel pin. This is not reversable and should be left to guys that want all out performance!! You can not go back

The pin is pointed at the AFC lever and can be ground down to alow for more fuel. The more you grind the more fuel you get to a point. Do at your own risk. The other is the Kill lever DO NOT cut it.

Installing of the new spring is just reverse of removing the old one.

The lever behind the gov spring is the one that the Full fuel screw pushes on and can be pulled toward the front of the pump with a small wire or string to clear the screw as the top is placed back on the pump if the screw was left in place. As you set the top on you can then remove the string or wire and finish installing the top. One other way is to note the depth of the full fuel screw and back it out till the tip is flush with the inside of the cover, as you cam see , this will alow the cover to set on the pump with no probs and then it can be placed back to the previously noted depth.

When you have it all back together remove the intake tube from the turbo and have a bord or some thing solid that you can place over the intake of the turbo to cut off the air and kill the motor incase of runaway.

DO NOT USE YOUR HAND

 

[Dazed&Confused]

Very nice. Thank you.

Andy

 

[Highfinance97]

op:op:op:

 

[1stGen545]

Now for the Full Fuel screw

This will really wake things up.

Befor you start remove the intake tube from the turbo and get some thing hard and flat that can be used to cut off the air and kill the motor in case of runaway.

DO NOT use your hand it WILL get pulled into the turbo

The one I am talking about is the one on the rear of the pump nearest to the shut down solenoid. If your pump has never been messed with it will have a small collar that is tack welded to the screw and will need to be removed to alow for moor adjustment. You can mark the stock depth of the screw and remove it and then remove the collar and reinstall it to the stock depth.

Here is the screw with the collar removed

Most guys will go 2 turns clockwise from stock and are very happy. If you want to get all you can out of your pump I start the truck with it in the stock position. Then using a 6mm socket and ( or flat tip screwdriver) a extension slowly turn it CW. Go about 1/4 turn at a time after 2 turns and rev the engine a few 100 RPM and then release it fast and make sure that it idles down as fast as it use to. Repeat this till you get to the point were it is slow to idle back down or the RPM's hover or stick. Now you are close to runaway so back off till it idles down like it should ( about 1/4-1/2 turn) and lock the jam nut. Try it a few times and run it to WOT and make sure that it will idle back down as soon as you release the throttle.


Your throttle will be a few 100 RPM higher than stock when done. You need to get to the low idle screw and loosen the jam nut and turn it counter clock wise to get it back to about stock RPM then tighten the jam nut.

 

[1stGen545]

Now for the Full Fuel screw

This will really wake things up.

Befor you start remove the intake tube from the turbo and get some thing hard and flat that can be used to cut off the air and kill the motor in case of runaway.

DO NOT use your hand it WILL get pulled into the turbo

The one I am talking about is the one on the rear of the pump nearest to the shut down solenoid. If your pump has never been messed with it will have a small collar that is tack welded to the screw and will need to be removed to alow for moor adjustment. You can mark the stock depth of the screw and remove it and then remove the collar and reinstall it to the stock depth.

Here is the screw with the collar removed

Most guys will go 2 turns clockwise from stock and are very happy. If you want to get all you can out of your pump I start the truck with it in the stock position. Then using a 6mm socket and ( or flat tip screwdriver) a extension slowly turn it CW. Go about 1/4 turn at a time after 2 turns and rev the engine a few 100 RPM and then release it fast and make sure that it idles down as fast as it use to. Repeat this till you get to the point were it is slow to idle back down or the RPM's hover or stick. Now you are close to runaway so back off till it idles down like it should ( about 1/4-1/2 turn) and lock the jam nut. Try it a few times and run it to WOT and make sure that it will idle back down as soon as you release the throttle.


Your throttle will be a few 100 RPM higher than stock when done. You need to get to the low idle screw and loosen the jam nut and turn it counter clock wise to get it back to about stock RPM then tighten the jam nut.

 

[9 LIVES]

any photos on how to gut the fuel solonoid & install a pull cable?

 

[921stgen]

This shood help you mainly on page two.
Fix your torn fuel shutoff solenoid plunger:
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...d.php?t=117593

Gut the selonoid by removing it and taking out the plunger and spring. If you don't have the pump out of viehicle you will probably have to cut some of the bottom bracket that holds the pump to access the selonoid. I tried to copy some pics but they wouldn't show up in the post. Remember NOT to put the wires back on the selonoid if you gut it, just wire nut them together.

Tie a choke cable or something like that on the cross looking thing to the left of the shutoff selonoid and pull to shutoff engine. There is a good pic of that about 1/2 way down the 1st page on the dieseltruckresource link above.

 

[9 LIVES]

Im not a member of DTR ...the photos didn't show up?

 

[9 LIVES]

What kind of tool are you using to cut that bracket? I can't fit my 4.5" angle grinder in there with a metal cut off blade.

 

[badasscatman]

thank you that should be very helpful as the need arises

 

[BowtiedCTD]

so question can the DVs be made bigger on a VE like the P7100???and where do i get the 4.2K kit??? i havea 3K i dont need if anyone needs one