welded front diff

outlaw99

outlaw99

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May 20, 2008
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how many guys are running welded up front diffs? just for pulling in my case? im wondering how hard it will be to turn since we dont have a cad like the older trucks?
 
i have to get out and unlock a hub. theres no turning that thing.
 
what do you mean you dont turn..lol.. you have to turn to get on the traile roff and to the sled. Im wondering how hard to turn when in 2wd.
 
Danny dont do it, You cant steer it alot of pulling up in backing up. Get you a detriot Truetrac much better then having it welded. When i trashed my diff's a few weeks ago at Owensboro ky I ended up busting the spiders. You can get a truetrac for $524 plus shipping for your truck.
 
If you weld it, at least put hydro-assist on your steering
 
its a puller but not like that...lol Idk if im even allowed hydro steering.. I still have the factory power steering stuff so that will help.
 
U can get a power wagon front chunk for about $500 and its a electric locker ,even if u have it in 2wd I don't think u will be able to turn it
 
The welded fronts are a pain, but folks do it and get buy. The electric locker appears to be finicky.
 
I guess the only thing im asking is if I weld this thing.. am I going ot be stuck in my damn driveway because I cant turn at all...lol.. I was told if I weld it I couldnt turn.. at all... 2wd or 4wd.. I dont care if I have to austin powers it a little..lol
 
it will definatly be austin powers style. I have done this alot on mud trucks
 
best result for strength is to cut a piece of steel in a small square to fit in the center section no less than 3/8s plate. If you stick weld it use 8018 3/32 rod and burn the chit out of it. I would torch pre-heat the area for about five minutes before you even start to tack in the plates or no plates. Then keep good heat on it half way welded out and after your done too. What ever you do dont quench it with anything. Let the diff cool down on its own.
 
joelc79 said:
best result for strength is to cut a piece of steel in a small square to fit in the center section no less than 3/8s plate. If you stick weld it use 8018 3/32 rod and burn the chit out of it. I would torch pre-heat the area for about five minutes before you even start to tack in the plates or no plates. Then keep good heat on it half way welded out and after your done too. What ever you do dont quench it with anything. Let the diff cool down on its own.
Click to expand...

Got any pics of this? I'm about to have the front end welded in my 97 because I just can't afford a locker.
 
here is a pic i found on the web, exactly what im talkin about. The plate is set in and then you tie the whole thing in with weld. With the pre and post heat it helps for strength cause that ring and pinion is some really hard stuff. The 8018 rod is important cause thats 80,000 psi rod which is some equal hard filler material. 3/32 diam rod cause you want small tight stringer beads with alot of heat to penatrate. This picture shows it done with mig (hints the small holes at the end of the welds) and is not recomended cause the filler wire isn't that common, lack of penetration and fusion is more common as well. Which means it would crack and possible tear MORE stuff up
weldeddiff.jpg
 
looks like he just spot welded the whole damn thing.. idk about that.. I like my heat...lol
 
Thank you for the pics & info I've now changed my mind on how I'm going to have my front end welded up & on who is doing it. LOL
 
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