1/4 mile time...

dipapadakis

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Jan 20, 2011
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151
ran this tonight. i was kinda dissapointed. does this sound right for my sig? i did a 25lb 4wd launch, thanks


60 ft -1.9782
330 ft -5.9480
1/8 et-9.3057
1/8 mph-72.96
1000 et-12.1577
1000mph-82.34
1/4 et- 14.7495
1/4 mph 89.48
 
For reference, I went to the track a few weeks ago and my 98' 12 valve 4x4 Quad Cab Long Bed: 7x.010" injectors, 2095 rack plug, no plate, AFC mods, 18* timing, stock HX35 turbo with boost elbow 35 psi, home built transmission 18 psi launch.

60' - 1.975
330 - 5.948
1/8 - 9.306 @ 73.1MPH
1000 - 12.221
ET - 14.695 @ 91.17 MPH

Truck + Driver came in at 7290 lbs, this calculates to about 380 HP.


I'd say your truck is a little slow compared to the modifications it has done to it. If you look at our time slips, they are almost identical until the 1000' mark, then my truck slowly started to gain on you. This is weird because the stock HX35 turbo should be choking on the exhaust side and pushing warm air on the compressor side compared to a 62mm USB turbo you're running.

I would check your fuel lift pump pressure at WOT, if it's dipping a little, it can hurt topend performance.

You could probably pick up 20 HP by increasing your timing to 18.5*.


How much boost are you seeing during the run? How much boost in overdrive?
 
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Do you run a lockup switch, what gear do you lockup in, are you shifting or letting it shift on it's own, what rpm is it shifting at, how much boost overall?

I'm a firm believer in running a fuel plate, too much fuel at the wrong time can drown it out and create a lot of heat. I'd put a plate back in and bump the timing to 19-20*. Your setup tuned in should be able to make 500+ hp

My 97 ran consistent 13.1-13.3's 180 pump, 181's, DDP4's, Bell USB...IIRC timing was around 20*
 
Based off of the times my dually ran without dvs, a 4gsk (it only had a 3), a rack plug or 4wd it seems your truck isn't making the horsepower it should be.

60ft 2.066
330 5.947
1/8 9.147
mph 77.26
1000 11.877
1/4 14.176
mph 97.93

My truck began catching back up to you by the 300 and passed you by the 1/8th. Have you checked your fuel pressure? I had fuel pressure be an issue when my lift pump went. Those injectors are okay but a set of injectors with the correct spray pattern will do wonders
 
havent checked my fuel pressure at wot i dont have a gauge for that... is there any other way to check?

im pushing about 42 max boost

1st shifts at 22 at 3k then 2nd shifts almost imeadiately i dont know what speed or rpm but it seems way too soon i dont know how to adjust that if anyone knows? and ill take 3rd up to 3 grand then kick it in od

i have a lock up switch i lock up off the line it doesnt actually engage until 2nd gear?

what fuel plate would you reccomend running?

and yes once i save up some money i will be getting some sdx sticks

thanks!
 
My truck set up:

0 plate
191 dv's
stock 12 valve 215 injectors
HE351cw 60mm turbo
4k GSK

I run:
1.9X 60 foot
9.4@71mph 1/8th
14.9@87mph 1/4

This is launching around 20 psi. The tranny is hurt some from when i broke the input shaft. Id like to lock it as soon as it shifts to 2nd, but it doesent like to lock until 3rd now at WOT, so I wasnt locking up until 3rd. It burns pretty clean. EGT's are up there, but thats expected. With some sticks, a rack plug, and timing id say it should be around high 13's? Ill need a full built tranny before that happens though.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_72gWTeC16k"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_72gWTeC16k[/ame]
 
work on you 60ft time, i cut 1.86 and ran 8.99 in the 1/8th. forgot mph though. You also have a little more air and fuel. i run a super hx40, 26* timing and stock dv's and everything else pretty close to the same.
 
x2 on the ft, did it spin at all off the line? i launch at psi and can cut 1.8-1.85 60's
 
i launched it @ 32 then i was spinning all 4s n i ran a 14.9 with a 2 flat 60ft so i went down to 25 n it was maybe a little squirly out of the hole. is a very rapid 2-3 shift normal? i think that is really hurting my time... not to mention my timing is pretty low... ill see if i can upload a video
 
my tires were also @ about 70 psi i wasnt going to deflate them kuz i was pulling a trailer when i saw the strip then stopped and decided to run a few times. also i havnt put the rack plug or valvesprings in yet sorry about that everything else is correct though. it drives me nuts cuz everyone says i should be in the low 13's for sure..... so what should i do tuning wise/timing wise to see the 500 horse everyone says i should be at? thanks
 
havent checked my fuel pressure at wot i dont have a gauge for that... is there any other way to check?
If you come up with a gauge to check pressure make sure to put a snubber or needle valve inline so the pulse of the lift pump doesn't kill the gauge. How many miles on your fuel filter? Pull the overflow valve and stretch the springand you can even add the spring out of a Bic Pen for a little more pressure.

im pushing about 42 max boost
I'd install an adjustable regulator, boost elbow, or shorten the waste gate rod to get your boost between 50-55 psi.

1st shifts at 22 at 3k then 2nd shifts almost imeadiately i dont know what speed or rpm but it seems way too soon i dont know how to adjust that if anyone knows? and ill take 3rd up to 3 grand then kick it in od

i have a lock up switch i lock up off the line it doesnt actually engage until 2nd gear?
You can play with the TV cable to try and get it to shift later, just make sure that the TV cable doesn't limit WOT at the injector pump. 2nd gear lockup is normal on most valve bodies , you usually have to specify when ordering if you'd like it to lock in 1st.

what fuel plate would you reccomend running?
I've had real good luck with a #6 style plate on 160/175, 180, and 215 pumps.

and yes once i save up some money i will be getting some sdx sticks

thanks!
I'd save a little more and go with a set of DDP's$.02

Lowering your tire pressure and leaving at 10-15 psi will most likely help your 60' time. I'd bump the timing to 19-20*, on the conservative side. If you have studs I'd put it around 22-24*
 
fuel filter has 26k on it
i dont have studs but i do have new stock bolts torqued down to 155
i heard ddp are the same spray pattern as marine injectors and they marked up really high? is that true?
whats your 2 cents on .024dvs?
thanks for all the help man
 
fuel filter has 26k on it
i dont have studs but i do have new stock bolts torqued down to 155
i heard ddp are the same spray pattern as marine injectors and they marked up really high? is that true?
whats your 2 cents on .024dvs?
thanks for all the help man
You're long overdue for a fuel filter, I'd try to get in the habit of changing it every 10k.
You should be able to run higher timing with the bolts being torqued to 155, but I'm not sure how high is safe.

DDP's are a wider spray pattern at 155* compared to stock and others at 145*. Why it's a bad thing, I don't know, but a lot of people sure do talk about it. They are on the expensive side, but they work quite well.

I really like the 024's, I picked up around 15rwhp swapping from 191's to the 024's. Do you know if yours are the 7mm or 8mm version?
 
not sure i ordered them through puredieselpower it is a bosch 024 thats about all i know...
do you know if id want to loosen or tighten the tv cable?
ill order me a filter this week and start tweaking all that stuff and see how it goes ill deffinately let you all know how it goes. thanks again for all the help man
 
DDP's are a wider spray pattern at 155* compared to stock and others at 145*. Why it's a bad thing, I don't know, but a lot of people sure do talk about it. They are on the expensive side, but they work quite well.
The problem with ddp which has been discussed and mulitple times on this forum is efficiency (155* is spraying out of the bowl) and price. Why go buy an injector thats more expensive in less efficient?
 
not sure i ordered them through puredieselpower it is a bosch 024 thats about all i know...
do you know if id want to loosen or tighten the tv cable?
/QUOTE]They should be 8mm.
You want to tighten the tv cable.

The problem with ddp which has been discussed and mulitple times on this forum is efficiency (155* is spraying out of the bowl) and price. Why go buy an injector thats more expensive in less efficient?
They run cleaner, cooler, make more power, and get better mileage...please explain to me how that's inefficient. Im guessing you must have compared your current injectors against DDP's, please share your info.
 
To make a long story short. the whole cleaner, better mileage, didnt really last. They ended up hazing at idle with in 6 months and mpg fell down with in a year. Switch to a set of sdxs its been a year and they haven't changed, they run cooler then the ddps even at cruise, mpg has gone back up to where it was before even with my right foot in it more then it was before. Im sorry but they just didnt work out for me and sdx's do
 
To make a long story short. the whole cleaner, better mileage, didnt really last. They ended up hazing at idle with in 6 months and mpg fell down with in a year. Switch to a set of sdxs its been a year and they haven't changed, they run cooler then the ddps even at cruise, mpg has gone back up to where it was before even with my right foot in it more then it was before. Im sorry but they just didnt work out for me and sdx's do


This is what happened to mine, a year old and 3 weren't even popping on the test stand. I always had a slight popping problem with the DDP.
 
did you notice any power gain or loss when you switched?

I didnt lose anything at all when i switched only gained. mpg came back, throttle response is better now then when the ddps where new. As for a real horspower gain Im not sure because the trucks never hit a dyno but the "seat of the pants" it feels a lot better.

Young gun i never thought about popping them when the started to fail I just threw them in a box.
 
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