1 piece DS info

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getblown5.9

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what size tube/wall should i tell the DS shop to use. and how much stronger is a 1480 yoke/u-joint then the 1410?

not sure if i should go ahead and get the 1480 yoke for the D80 or if 1410 will suffice, tho it may be worth it since i heard the 1480 yoke is only about $75.

i already have 1480 at the T-case with the big NP271 slip yoke.

also, can weld yokes be re-used if they are cut off the shaft? just trying not to buy parts that I already have, just not sure if they can be re-used.
 
Do the 1480 joints. I used 4" .09 or so wall for mine. I know many guys use the once piece shafts on the street. The driveshaft guy did ont recommend using the 4" 1 piece on the street. He said 3" two piece would be better ont he street. 4" is stronger though, but has a tendancy to vibrate. We compromised 4" two piece.
 
I broke the slip yoke where the 2 piece comes together...i've seen some pretty long 1 pc shafts before. as long as its balanced i should be good considering my truck only sees the street about once a month now.
 
TJ,
If your driveshaft didn't give it probably would have been your main shaft.
Just remember: you toughen one part up then the other part will probably go next time.
 
The guy I used for driveshafts(he builds driveshafts for haisleys and scheids also) says it isn't about the balancing, it is about the physical aspects of the shaft. I ran a 4" 1 piece for a while, with no issues, on a LWB dodge. Just after a long talk with him, i felt it would be better to go the two piece route. It has the large carrier bearing too.
 
zstroken said:
The guy I used for driveshafts(he builds driveshafts for haisleys and scheids also) says it isn't about the balancing, it is about the physical aspects of the shaft. I ran a 4" 1 piece for a while, with no issues, on a LWB dodge. Just after a long talk with him, i felt it would be better to go the two piece route. It has the large carrier bearing too.
Click to expand...

I think i am going that route now to, no more one piece for me, the Stocker shaft some how held at TS
 
I used Rowe truck in Lafayette. They even had them take the slip joint from my rear and turned it into a 1410 one piece for the front. I figure if that slip joint can handle 600HP on the rear, it should be able to handle quite a bit up front.
 
Josh has had his truck with his 1 piece shaft up to 110mph or so and didnt notice any vibration. He went through plenty of built 2 piece shafts last year, but the 1 piece seems to be holding. Im not sure what the specs on either of his shafts were, but the 2 piece got to be a pain breaking every other pull.

You had a heck of a pull the other night TJ, too bad you broke your driveshaft. Good to talk to ya again too.

Eric
 
getblown5.9 said:
what size tube/wall should i tell the DS shop to use. and how much stronger is a 1480 yoke/u-joint then the 1410?

not sure if i should go ahead and get the 1480 yoke for the D80 or if 1410 will suffice, tho it may be worth it since i heard the 1480 yoke is only about $75.

i already have 1480 at the T-case with the big NP271 slip yoke.

also, can weld yokes be re-used if they are cut off the shaft? just trying not to buy parts that I already have, just not sure if they can be re-used.
Click to expand...

ideally you want the same joint at both ends.. IMO worht the extre $$ for hte 1480
 
ok anyone got an approximate length for an ECLB 1 piece shaft (i have a 271 t-case so it will be a hair shorter for me) im just trying to make calls today for pricing.

and will swapping the 1410-1480 yoke change the length that much on the rear? i wanna go ahead and get my exact length measured tonight, but wont have the 1480 yoke for a few days.
 
My rear drive shaft is probably one of the longest in street truck there is. No shop up here wanted to built a one piece for me because of length/ballancing. Off the top of my head...I forget the exact length but my trucks wheel base is 168 compared to 153 or what ever a quad-cab long box dodge is.

I got it thru Haisleys and am very happy with it. Its the 4" with 1480's for the rear and 1410's for the front. I have taken the truck up to 100+mph and didn't experiance any vibration with the single shaft. For pulling I have put it thru quite a bit of stress/bounce and everything is still looking great!

My opinion is if your going to pull...go one piece (one less joint in the setup and also a bearing)

Ryan
 
T.J I had mine made at our local Heavy duty parts, At first they did not want to make it for me B/C of the lenghth but i insisted that it was not a used on the street.

its 4" .95 wall with a 1480 up front and a 1550 in the rear.

No vibration all the way to 100 MPH

Jesse from High angle driveline made my flange for the front and got me the rear yoke

Michael
 
Highfinance97 said:
T.J I had mine made at our local Heavy duty parts, At first they did not want to make it for me B/C of the lenghth but i insisted that it was not a used on the street.

its 4" .95 wall with a 1480 up front and a 1550 in the rear.

No vibration all the way to 100 MPH

Jesse from High angle driveline made my flange for the front and got me the rear yoke

Michael
Click to expand...

.95???
 
Mine is a 1 piece 4" x .180 thick and has no vibration to over 110MPH.
 
I figured, but I have heard people say they were just going to use 4" pipe before.
 
mine viberates like heck at 70 must be since its 82 inches long and 4 x .180
 
The guy that does mine found 4.125x.180. Dont let them sell you a thick walled pipe with a O.D smaller than 4 in. most of the strength comes from the O.D. I havent had any problems with the shaft going but i twisted off the 1.5 inch solid part on the front.

ted
 
just talked to my guy, he has some heavy tube there but said he will have to actually machine some material off of a 1480 weld yoke to make it work since the wall is pretty thick.

all said and done it will be under $300 for the new shaft, and a pair of weld yokes and 1480 u-joints.
 
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