12 Valve Excursion questions, trying to complete

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supraman95

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Dec 13, 2010
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Not getting alot of answers on the other forums so I thought I would ask here as well.

I am in the middle of my swap and have run into some things I cannot find answers to on the forum. Hopefully you guys can help me.

04 Excursion Powerstroke getting a 98 12V and 47RE trans. I am running a full dodge drivetrain and using the dodge ECU to control it.

I cannot get the turbo to work in my truck (stock HX35 w/ wastegate). Even when I flip the manifold I cannot get the wastegate to clear the heater box. Is it harder to do in an Excursion? What turbo can I change to that is a decent upgrade and not very expensive which will solve my wastegate issue (not fitting due to heater box)? I want to figure this out before I plumb the turbo piping and have to change it later.

Who all is running the ford diesel fuel pump turned down and who is using the factory lift pump and bypassing the ford diesel pump? I want to know what you guys are doing and why.

I want to use the dodge alternator but am aware that I need to use a voltage regulator. What are you guys doing here? Are you using a different Denso alternator with a regulator on the back or are you using an inline regulator? I have also been told that you can take your dodge alternator and have it altered to be regulated. Will I need to really do anything since I am using a full dodge drivetrain and running the dodge ecu (which controls the Voltage)

Does my dodge ecu and 47re Auto trans need a speed signal in order to work / shift etc?

Any help is very appreciated.
Thanks!!
 
Try a bus our industrial manifold, its a 3rd gen style, mounts the turbo lower and closer to engine, also try a later hx with the actuator mounted to the compressor housing, makes it more compact.

If you are using an auto wiring harness for the swap, it will shift just fine, there is a speed sensor on tail shaft, its all taken care of with pcm. Can't answer the other questions for you, don't have a fummins... Good luck!
 
That info alone is great to know, thank you!!!

Will a standard 3rd gen manifold work with a 3rd gen turbo on my 12Valve? (what model turbo is this and is it an upgrade over the HX35 I have now)
 
Its an he351 cw, you ned a bus manifold for the square ports, the 3rd gen has round ports. And yes the turbo will bolt on, its a 60/60/9 so its a good improvement, you can make 450 plus with that turbo
 
if you use all the dodge wiring and ecm, then the dodge alternator should work fine, no changes necessary.
 
Thanks to all for your help!!!

No matter how I spin the cartridge and housing on the HX35 the wastegate still hits the top of the heater box. My only option is to safety wire the wastegate closed or modify it and move it to the side. I had thought of going with a 3rd gen manifold which will place the turbo straight down and I can rotate the compressor housing to point down. If I go this route will the Hx35 clear the manifold and the parts of the truck and work fine or will I need to go with an HE351 to make it all work? Also if you do an HE351 on a 12Valve do they have a manual wastegate or an electronic one?
 
supraman95 said:
Thanks to all for your help!!!

No matter how I spin the cartridge and housing on the HX35 the wastegate still hits the top of the heater box. My only option is to safety wire the wastegate closed or modify it and move it to the side. I had thought of going with a 3rd gen manifold which will place the turbo straight down and I can rotate the compressor housing to point down. If I go this route will the Hx35 clear the manifold and the parts of the truck and work fine or will I need to go with an HE351 to make it all work? Also if you do an HE351 on a 12Valve do they have a manual wastegate or an electronic one?
Click to expand...

You can run a HE351 without the electronics, just remove the solenoid thing from the comp housing and plug the hole. Just run an adjustable boost elbow to the wastegate.
 
Thanks, is there a certain He351 that I need in order to do this? It seems like there are several different versions...

Will the HX35 work with the Gen 3 manifold too without any hitting issues?
 
I have a bus manifold for sale if you need one. Pm me if you're interested.
 
Shocker444 said:
Here is my link to wiring in an external regulator for 94-98 12 valve dodge application. It is very common for the regulators to take a dive in the factory Dodge PCM, and it is much cheaper to do it this way. It would be the same in your Ford. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me, as I did this write up on the CumminsForum.

External Voltage Regulator Install With Pics - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
Click to expand...


Just do that ^^ much simpler than trying to hide all the dodge crap that only runs the alt. IIRC the 47re just needs 2 relays to work.


On the turbo, you can just make a simple bracket to move the actuator.
39363_453995645849_777585849_6264561_3663277_n.jpg


or like this

77167_495495095849_777585849_7143169_6336883_n.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics roachie, that helps. What manifold and turbo are you running just so I know?
 
Horns, I dont have enough posts to send a pm. Pm me what you are looking to get for the bus manifold. I have a line on a CR one but if it is a good deal I will pick it up from you.

Are there any restrictions on what turbos you can use on the bus manifold?
 
Mine is standard 24v manifold.

The top pic is an HX35, bottom is an he351.
 
will deffinatley need the dodge pcm or a aftermarket like a pcs to run the 47re. it is an electronic controlled valve body and does take a lot more than two relays to make it work.
 
Well I have what I needed to either adapt the wastegate on the HX35 or I will be buying an HE351 and 3rd gen manifold if anyone responds to my messages lol....

I am now doing the coolant piping and have the starter mounted and wired up to the factory ford switches.

I am ordered some DTT goodies for the trans so that will be completed next week.
 
Does anyone know where the leads on the heater relays come from? I have the relays and all the wiring except for the small 4 leads that connect to the side. I am guessing these are the triggers? What did those leads connect to?
 
They come from the ecm, and should be visible there on the harness... They are just a 12v trigger. you can instal a switch to kick them on momentarily.depending on where you live you may not need them, my car starts fine at 25 without heaters
 
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