12mm head studs

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Aug 13, 2006
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What is the breaking point of 12mm head studs? Im having a hard time deciding between 12mm or 14mm studs cause if the 12mm will hold alot then i dont wanna take the time and money to drill and re-tap the block for the 14's.
 
ARP 625's NO Question!!!! Plenty of 625's owners running Way Big HP and Big boost with no problems..


14's just weakin the block...
 
Well I've never Had a Women complain about my 12MM STUD!!!!!!!!!



LOL
 
Some say if you use 14 mm studs, That you Compensating for Something!!!

TY!!! :poke:



LOL:hehe::lolly:
 
Big Swole said:
Some say if you use 14 mm studs, That you Compensating for Something!!!

TY!!! :poke:



LOL:hehe::lolly:
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Scheid builds some very, VERY high HP trucks. I'd say they know what works and what doesn't :)
 
Sorry for the Derail there Mr. Stroke This.....lol


Just search a bit....

You can either pay Schied's to do it "Right".......$$$$$

or just do it yourself with 625's......

Unless your trying to set a record or something, You'll be fine with either!

my .02
 
Ok...Ty....You know I was just playin with ya...

But seriously...If all someone is doing is "Adding on" mods and not pulling the motor to do a complete build, You would have to agree...625's will be MORE than fine up to a HUGE HP level...

Come on now!! You know it doesn't make sense to do all that work if you not doing a complete build...
 
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I've been putting 60+psi daily on standard 12mm ARP's for over 50,000 miles with zero issues. I personally see no need to upgrade at the moment.
 
ARP2000's are holding fine on the little Cummins S10 of Brandon's...been re-torqued a few times now, and she's making well over 100psi boost. Can't tell for sure, can't watch the track and the gauges at the same time:D

ARP 625's are supposed to be pretty much equal to 14mm studs...my take is:

Pull the engine to build it bigger...14mm (you'll be doing other machine work anyway)

Not pulling engine...ARP625's

JMHO,
Chris

BTW, I should also say my 1/2 ton has ARP2000's installed, and if I blow it, I'll go with ARP625's until I need something better. Not pulling that engine until she let's go big time!
 
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Signature600 said:
ARP2000's are holding fine on the little Cummins S10 of Brandon's...been re-torqued a few times now, and she's making well over 100psi boost. Can't tell for sure, can't watch the track and the gauges at the same time:D

ARP 625's are supposed to be pretty much equal to 14mm studs...my take is:

Pull the engine to build it bigger...14mm (you'll be doing other machine work anyway)

Not pulling engine...ARP625's

JMHO,
Chris

BTW, I should also say my 1/2 ton has ARP2000's installed, and if I blow it, I'll go with ARP625's until I need something better. Not pulling that engine until she let's go big time!
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My sentiments exactly. I tried to build my motor to last. 14mm studs and mains might be overkill but, it's also a sense of security. I never said one is better than the other..... only pointed out to Swole, if done right 14mm won't weaken the block.
 
triton said:
Not true. If done right, they'll out hold any 12mm.
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triton said:
My sentiments exactly. I tried to build my motor to last. 14mm studs and mains might be overkill but, it's also a sense of security. I never said one is better than the other..... only pointed out to Swole, if done right 14mm won't weaken the block.
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Read your two comments....You actualy did say one (14's) were better than Any 12's

Ty, your truck has held up very well...I'm know Scheid is the chit...But your first comment just seemed like a Totally disagreement to me....You didn't elaborate on your full set up...Fire Rings mainly....Your whole motor was pulled...With extensive work done..Not just adding typical mods.

BUT, I've seen pics of a block that was spit open and heard other stories of 14 mm studs possiblly being the cause....I was simply sharing what I'd learned....Even folks like "The" Jeff Garmon and Darren Morrison share this same view on them.......But, you / Scheid obviously proved it can be done...

On the other hand...It is very possible that you just haven't made enough HP yet to find that Block's limit due to the 14mm studs!

I sincerely hope that your truck runs awesome and holds together forever!! You know that! But you have to concead that the possible limits of your block may not have been found yet and that 12mm 625's will hold a Chit load of Power WithOUT having to go Fire Rings, O-rings, 14mm's, etc...

So...You and I have be straight for a long time...We don't need to get cross over simple opinions about studs....Like someone else said " There are many ways to skin Obama".......eh um....I mean,,,, " A Cat"..... LOL
 
It depends on which block you have. 14mm seem to be fine in the older blocks, but it appears some of the new blocks are seeing cracks around the stud area when you pour the power to them.
 
Do you have to bottom tap the block to get the ARP studs in there like you do on the old 12v's? That is all I have ever had so I dunno if it is easier in these (just bough and 04)... Do you guys recommend ARP's over A1 studs like the H11's? trying to get build hints, sorry to hijack.
 
Ramrod90 said:
Do you have to bottom tap the block to get the ARP studs in there like you do on the old 12v's? That is all I have ever had so I dunno if it is easier in these (just bough and 04)... Do you guys recommend ARP's over A1 studs like the H11's? trying to get build hints, sorry to hijack.
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Yes on the ARPs...625's though....Do it right if your gonna..

I did not bottom tap my block...Only mod I had to do it grind off a bit and the back of the injector line box ( not sure what else to call it....the piece between the head and valve cover) so it would clear that one stud...
 
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