12v swap 85 F350 CCLB. 4wd

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Also I sent my s362 to HTT for the rebuild. I got a 4" downpipe from a first gen and an intercooler from a 99 ford. All aluminum.
Hoping it runs even better and cooler.
 
Finally got around to installing the s362
Tried a bunch of different configurations. Finally the upside down first gen manifold did the truck.
Waiting on my intercooler and piping.
I used a first gen 4" downpipe as well. Just had to modify it.

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Well I tried to make the 99 stroker I/c work. An it would have. But I have a rad from an 300 i6 powered 81 ford an it's too wide. I would have had to modify the rad or the Ic. Just not worth it to me.
So I see a lot of people use these mad tight Jdm eBay coolers and it was perfect.
And I don't know the exact physics of an Ic. But if more volume=more cooling then the Jdm one should be fine. It's actually more cubic inches compared to the stroker Ic when you calculate LxWxH
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Latest pics. I spent some time today wrapping up the I/c plumbing.
I took pics of the crappy eBay clamps installed but I actually got nice ones.

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Nice clamp on left. eBay clamp on right

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Got this cool intake. Cheaper than a pusher or ATS

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Laatly I wasn't satisfied with the flanges that keep the boots from slipping off. So I broke out the ol' harbor freight bead roller.

I also used the extreme poor man way on a piece of aluminum I had to use. It works on steel too. Just tougher.

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If anyone wants to chime in their .02 I have an issue.
I haven't driven the truck yet. Alternator bearing went.
So I can really only let it idle in my driveway.

So it fires right up. But it just doesn't seem right. I can't rev it up. It stumbles. If I ease into it it's better.
This is all since new turbo and intercool.
I was able to rev it no problem yesterday before the I/c was all plumbed in.
Is this just how it will run now with the bigger turbo and I/c? I used to be able to rev it right out while sitting in traffic or whatever.
Last thing that's different from before I parked it to do the work is it's now in the 40*s down from 70*s
 
Check the shutoff solenoid for full operation. The cold could've tightened up the tolerances on the linkage or the solenoid and caused binding.
 
Does it act the same when warm. I know mine will sputter and be pissy when in the 40's
 
The orange ih is 392 powered.

And the truck only pops and sputters when you first start it.
A friend I mine who is a very good tech thinks it's my timing.
I'll check that when I get the alternator on
 
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