16" wheels on my 2005 2wd

TheBac said:
I could be really offbase here, but 16" wheels fit with no issues on the GM version of the AAM 11.5 axle. Could you guys use GM parts instead of grinding?
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Yeah this is what I was thinking? Maybe just yank the rotors and calipers from a GM? Or if you could find the whole axle for a decent price that could work? I think the only difference is the axle tube size and bearing life rating.

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Not to discourage you from fitting a 16" wheel. As it can be done with grinding on the cheap, or with a 2002 rear disc swap.

But in a 2003 CCSB 2wd I was cutting 1.67-1.69 60's consistently (some as fast as 1.62 on a great track), this was in 2006.

11.3-11.4 IIRC at 114 gear bound. Back then we didn't have the ability to rev the CR like we do now.

Stock front suspension, rear with all but two leafs removed, caltracks, MH racemaster DRs on 17s and full weight truck. This was on a single turbo truck and not hitting the nitrous until top of 1st or bottom of 2nd gear.

Your 60 is in the suspension. Right now a stickier tire is just a band-aid. Start hooking with less tire. If you out grow it down the road, fit the slicks.

With this suspension it just takes finding the best settings for pre-load on the bars and tire pressure.

Easier to spot your suspension inefficiencies before you put a huge slick on.
 
Truck runs 20s in street rim. With matching 17s for the track. Not a lightweight wheel by any means. Here's a hit off the line at Houston at DHRA finals in 06.
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Then after we were rained out, with the 20s back on.

Ran it on the street with the same setting on the caltracks.

ProjX.jpg
 
grinding the calipers wont hurt them.people around here have been grinding front calipers to clear wheels on 4wd trucks i know of since the mid 80's.they were doing it before,but i know since then.i've done it several times with no problems whatsoever.


if you are worried about grinding calipers,what about some spacers?
 
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We have ground a ton of them on two wheel CR dodges for guys hat wanted to run 16s and slicks.

Still living 10 years later.
 
Also I noticed you wanted a wheel that sat flush with the bedside. They're out there. The owner of the Grey truck chose the wheels. I agree with you on the look.
 
Risk is risk, you pay your money, you take your chances, sometimes at someone else's peril.

I just wouldn't want to be the person that grinds a brake caliper that happens to blow out and they cause a serious wreck.
All just because they were in a big hurry and bought the incorrect wheel, or tried to shortcut a way to make a wheel work by hacking on a brake caliper and it blew apart.

I don't care if you hurt yourself doing something stupid, just don't bring it on me or mine.

If you want to experiment, fine, do it on a track, or in a controlled scenario, don't hack the hell out of something and put it on a highway where you'll kill someone, or yourself, with your stupidity.

Especially when there's most likely a reasonable workaround to achieve the goal SAFELY. :cool:

Mark.
 
Crawler I have the same exact wheels with the m&h tires on them , my truck is lowered with drop control arms in the front and all but 2 leafs removed in the back with caltracks
A taller wrinkle wall slick or dot street slick would absorb some of the off the line grunt ...
I have dual fuelers , twin turbos and a 2 stage nx kit amongst allot o f other mods ...the wheels sticking out fling crap all over the side of my truck ...I want something that fits flush with a slick and I want a different wheel with my 17" m&hs to fit flush as well so I can hook on the street ...I have 20" wheels on my truck as well
 
To the guys that have shaved the calipers. Can y'all give me a rough guess on how much is usually needed to be taken off from the front and rear calipers?

Thanks fellas
 
ylo73z said:
Crawler I have the same exact wheels with the m&h tires on them , my truck is lowered with drop control arms in the front and all but 2 leafs removed in the back with caltracks
A taller wrinkle wall slick or dot street slick would absorb some of the off the line grunt ...
I have dual fuelers , twin turbos and a 2 stage nx kit amongst allot o f other mods ...the wheels sticking out fling crap all over the side of my truck ...I want something that fits flush with a slick and I want a different wheel with my 17" m&hs to fit flush as well so I can hook on the street ...I have 20" wheels on my truck as well
Click to expand...

I completely understand what you're looking for.

Find your street wheels that get your stance where you want it. Then lets try to get you hooked properly on what you have, then look at slicks. Your truck has a lot left in it as it is. Or grind the calipers or swap to 2002 brakes and then you can bolt on 16s and slicks. But if it were me I'd find a 1.6X 60 on the DRs before I went slicks. If you go slicks now you may only ever see 1.6X. Stay with the radials and learn how to tune the suspenionto get 1.6X and you'll have the knowledge to know how to tune the suspension for 1.5X on slicks.

Now all that being said. My best times have always been when I get a 1/4-1/2 turn of the tire before it hooks hard.

That grey truck had much better times in it. Just back in 06 they tuning wasn't available. Plus we had an issue with the speed limiter.
 
Any suggestions on wheels to get the tire to be flush with my bed side ? Custom wheel only you think ?
 
I found some back in 07 But I cant recall what they were.

You'll need
17x12 with around 65-70mm offset.
or 17x11 with around 52-57mm offset.
or 17x10 with around 39-44mm offset.

These will all move the face of your wheel around around an inch compared to stock.

But keep in mind even on a 10 or 11" wide wheel you may need more offset than I'm suggesting above, because the tire will bubble out on a narrower rim than 12"

This is all off the top of my head. SO my math and memory could be off on the stock width and offset.
 
Well I'll stop by a discount tire or something and see what they can do ...did you have trouble with your tire moving on the rim after each pass? Mine were moving 1/2 inch each pass
 
I didn't. You may need to go up in PSI slightly. Another thing is making sure that whatever is used to mount the tire (soap etc) is completely wiped off and dry before seating the tire. If the shop uses anything oily it can cause slip too.
 
Since you're lowered in the front, you may want to look at a drop shackle or adjustable front hanger to bring the rear down a little. Will help with the weight transfer.
 
The rear is pretty low ...if I go much lower ill have to notch the frame for the axle tube to get any travel ....it sits slightly higher on the back then the front ...it's got a good stance and enough travel how it is now ...I'll make sure they don't douce the tires with lune on my next set of wheels
 
I caught that you had arms up front and pulled leafs in the front. Wasn't sure where your ride height and front rear bias was.

You may consider a little weight in the bed later on.

How are your caltracks set?
 
They are loose since I have not been to the track for years and had a to pull a car trailer for a freind ....the front has drop arms rear has springs removed ...sits quite a bit lower thanstock in the rear ....thinking about shortening it in the future to a 6 foot bed
 
IIRC

I had my driver side set to a 1/4 turn past touching and my passenger with a couple turns.

But that's just a starting point. Just have to adjust from there.
 
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