1940 ford , tube chassis, chop and cummins swap

How much power do you plan to run through that quick change?
 
650+ , she'll hold up fine , I've put a quickchange in my last 4 builds n there still kickin. They don't like shock loads so a manual cummins would probably be out of the question though
 
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too broke to build another twin setup so I pirated the one off the 52 chief
 
f100 cummins said:
650+ , she'll hold up fine , I've put a quickchange in my last 4 builds n there still kickin. They don't like shock loads so a manual cummins would probably be out of the question though
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Kool beans man. I didn't know what kind of torque they would take....shock loading makes sense too. Love the build, I'm a bit green eyed at the moment.
 
It looks awesome! I'm scraping parts up to build a model a sport coupe roadster. I definitely like your tube chassis too!
 
What size tubing did you use for the chassis? 1.75 DOM?

Worried about your body mounts cracking mounted like that, or do you have them gusseted?

Great looking rod you''ve got going on and great job on the cab work. Looking forward to seeing more
 
1.5 .134 tube has the same load bearing ability a1 3/4 .120, I usually use 1 3/4 in my mud truck chassis but I wanted a smaller hotrod look with the same strength
 
f100 cummins said:
1.5 .134 tube has the same load bearing ability a1 3/4 .120, I usually use 1 3/4 in my mud truck chassis but I wanted a smaller hotrod look with the same strength
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Same here only I build rock crawlers. I use 1.5" for all the interior cage/tubework or for small gussets or spreaders. The nice thing about 1.5" is the tighter raduis bend you can get versus the 1.75".

What sort of weight savings did you get over the stock frame? Or were you primarily concerned with strength and versitility of building it yourself?
 
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