1st gen drag truck project....

JQmile

Comp Diesel Sponsor
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Nov 19, 2006
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Allright guys, starting on a 1st gen drag truck, kind of a "rat rod" for the diesel world. Going to keep as many stock parts as I can to show these guys that old skool and low buck can go fast ;) Yes it will have a VE pump, weighs 4850# and should get lighter...will be 2wd will full suspension mods...goal is 500rwhp on the stock turbo and pump with spray, So far the truck has made 171rwhp stock, so I'll be updating as I go and we'll see how fast this 'ol dog can go! Goal is 11s!
 
500 on spray is about the max that can be pulled out of the stock 12mm head, as long as "spray" means methanol or propane. They max out at around 450 HP of Diesel, and the number of guys in the country that have gotten above 400 HP can be counted on fingers and tows.

I personally think that a 12mm pump head, low compression pistons, retarded timing and good flowing heads should be good for well over 600 with large amounts of alcohol; I don't think anybody's ever seen above 500 on drugs, but nobody has ever set things up for that.

If you go to an aftermarket 14mm head you're able to get over 600HP on #2 only, but that's definitely not stock.

Keeping the stock turbo at 500 HP is masochistical. Enough nitrous and water and maybe you could do it. But you're talking about a lot of nitrous and water, and as much head and flow work as you can get. I don't think anybody's ever gotten above 350 with a stock turbo. Assuming you're running a fumigated fuel, the stock turbo will definitely be a limiting point.

Keeping with the rat theme is welding a $400 HT3B on with the stock turbo. That'd provide more than enough air.

If "spray" means only nitrous and water, it's not going to happen without totally reworking the engine.
 
KTA has over 600HP on a ve and 13 or 14MM head....My stock injectors and turbo made 191 and 502 last spring. and that was just with the pump turned up.
 
i dont think you will need much hp to get these old trucks to run fast.. i think if you were to get the gearing right i think they would run damn good. look at the one guy he has stock turbo, injectors, and trans and he is running 13.95 but its prob toped out at around 900ft.. so he cant be more than about 250 rwhp if that.. so i dont think hp is gonna be the big issue to make them run fast. like kta has alot of hp but doesnt really put a good number up at the track so i think alot of fuel and some drugs will get you there...
 
Just got back from the dyno...made 264/500 with the pump turned up through an auto. So far only mods are Dynomite Diesel injectors and the fuel screw turned in 3 1/2 turns. Trans is slipping pretty bad now, I think we'll see close to 300rwhp with a new trans (I hope!) Only track within about 100 miles is an 1/8 mile track, so I'll be runnin there. My 3 speed 727 will probably help more than it hurts if I only have to go 660ft! :)
 
Still got more left on the pump :) Auto hurts a bit as does stock exhaust, intake, etc. Converter isn't coming in till 2000rpm, etc etc.....Will tinker with it more when I'm not worried about my trans going boom.
 
Trying to keep the build on a meat n' taters budget. With the converter and rebuilt trans I'll have about the same amount of $$ as I would in a good converter for a 47rh. Trying to see how far I can go with the 727 first.
 
I think the 727 will be fine with your 307 axle. I like how cheap you can build a 727!
 
Begle1 said:
You only attribute it to a tenth? I've always heard that it would reduce your quarter time by about 5%...

If it's only worth a tenth I don't see why anybody would run it.

It may be worth 5% when you run 15's.

As far as the last comment, a lock up switch costs less than 5 bucks. If you have never played with one, do not comment about it's supernatural effects. You know of another product that can shave a tenth for 5 bucks?
 
I'd bet mine is a LOT more than a tenth slower without using the lock switch.
George (Cummins Express) was leaving the lock switch alone to shave close to a half second off his time (12.0 index class) if I remember correctly.
Unless you come up with a super low stall converter, I'd think you'd be better off with a Getrag, than trying to race in fluid drive.
47RH is the way to dragrace. No computer, the front half works just like your 727, add 1 hot wire & 2 switched grounds & your done.
 
I don't think just a $5 lock-up switch is going to do much on a transmission without lock-up... The price difference between a good lock-up and non-lock-up transmission and converter is easily over $1000. For that amount of money I can name on fingers and tows products that can give you a tenth. Or even products that can give you 5%.

You're definitely better off with the non-lock-up automatic that the manual, in any case. Did anybody use lock-up in the quarter 15 years ago? There were definitely 12 second cars running 727's 15 years ago.
 
Begle1 said:
I don't think just a $5 lock-up switch is going to do much on a transmission without lock-up... The price difference between a good lock-up and non-lock-up transmission and converter is easily over $1000. For that amount of money I can name on fingers and tows products that can give you a tenth. Or even products that can give you 5%.

You're definitely better off with the non-lock-up automatic that the manual, in any case. Did anybody use lock-up in the quarter 15 years ago? There were definitely 12 second cars running 727's 15 years ago.

Your new to this diesel stuff eh ? :welcome:
 
What leads you to say that?

Lock-up in the quarter is a relatively new concept, isn't it? There are definitely lots of very fast cars that don't use it. The extra powerband of gassers means that lock-up isn't missed as much, but the extra torque of a Diesel should mean that you could run a tighter converter and still get off the line.
 
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