1st gen drag truck project....

yea the .10 is very Conservative by not using lock up or od I could take an 11.0's truck and run considant 12.0's

I know spences rail had one in it for a while but went back to the powerglide not sure if any one else has tried a transbrake
 
I know the difference a lockup switch made in my super fast truck stock truck, but i did go from an 18.1 to a 17.4 with nothing but a $2 switch
 
Mr. Mayer! Be careful what you wish for, by the way is your truck even running yet.

Buy the way it may have a little more than that. Maybe
 
Begle1 said:
I stand by that $1000 will better be spent on a turbocharter, injectors or water injection than lock-up.

1 ride, passenger side of my truck & I'll bet, you change your mind.

Your logic sounds great, & you obviously have good mechanical intelect, as your grasp of what should & shouldent work is perfect. (I agree that a transbrake would / will be ugly (Mr Morrison's been playing with one) But in reality, at over 1000ftlbs of torque (wich is where he'll be if he gets close to 500hp) Fluid stall speed is little more than a suggestion when you anchor it to a 5000+ pound vehicle. (unless you come up with a converter thats about 3 feet across!)
I have a 7000lb 1-ton making around 400hp / 850ftlbs. I added a billit converter with a tow stall (much lower than stock) & in fluid drive, it changed the whoal truck. It bangs a little hard when going from D to R, & the idle is lower than I like with the air on (will stall when hot), but I love it, as the overall driveability is substantially improved. BUT, at WOT, it will still flash almost as high as the crap stocker did! (that's when I use "The Switch" ;-)
I also have a 1st gen 1-ton with a set of POD's, most of the VE tweaks, & a 12 housing. It's strong! But everytime I drive it, I cant help but think " Man..this thing would haul azz if it had a switch"
IMHO...Drugs are for druggies (I did say IMHO)... & I personally proved an HX35/WH1C turbo will support 500HP. the 727 will work, but it's gonna be hot! A 47RH will work a LOT more than 5% better. A stock rebuild on a 727= $300-$600. a stock rebuild on an RH $400-$700 727 low stall converter= $600ish (I'm guessing) RH billit single disk $900ish. valve body kit $60ish for both. upgrade flex plate $250ish both.
If he gets lucky & scores an adapter housing & an RH core for cheap, he could start out, where he's gonna end up eventually... for less than a grand over what he's gonna spend anyway. $.02
 
12vchevydually said:
Mr. Mayer! Be careful what you wish for, by the way is your truck even running yet.

Buy the way it may have a little more than that. Maybe

Running...Check.
Mobile...Umm...know how to fix cracked aluminum??

Chris
 
turbomatt1 said:
1 ride, passenger side of my truck & I'll bet, you change your mind.

Your logic sounds great, & you obviously have good mechanical intelect, as your grasp of what should & shouldent work is perfect. (I agree that a transbrake would / will be ugly (Mr Morrison's been playing with one) But in reality, at over 1000ftlbs of torque (wich is where he'll be if he gets close to 500hp) Fluid stall speed is little more than a suggestion when you anchor it to a 5000+ pound vehicle. (unless you come up with a converter thats about 3 feet across!)
I have a 7000lb 1-ton making around 400hp / 850ftlbs. I added a billit converter with a tow stall (much lower than stock) & in fluid drive, it changed the whoal truck. It bangs a little hard when going from D to R, & the idle is lower than I like with the air on (will stall when hot), but I love it, as the overall driveability is substantially improved. BUT, at WOT, it will still flash almost as high as the crap stocker did! (that's when I use "The Switch" ;-)
I also have a 1st gen 1-ton with a set of POD's, most of the VE tweaks, & a 12 housing. It's strong! But everytime I drive it, I cant help but think " Man..this thing would haul azz if it had a switch"
IMHO...Drugs are for druggies (I did say IMHO)... & I personally proved an HX35/WH1C turbo will support 500HP. the 727 will work, but it's gonna be hot! A 47RH will work a LOT more than 5% better. A stock rebuild on a 727= $300-$600. a stock rebuild on an RH $400-$700 727 low stall converter= $600ish (I'm guessing) RH billit single disk $900ish. valve body kit $60ish for both. upgrade flex plate $250ish both.
If he gets lucky & scores an adapter housing & an RH core for cheap, he could start out, where he's gonna end up eventually... for less than a grand over what he's gonna spend anyway. $.02


Hmm....good points Matt, and eventually I might go with a 47rh, but since this is a budget build, and as my boss pointed out "You can't tell someone something is no good without trying it first" we're going to see what we can do with the 727.....it would be interesting to leave everything the same and switch to the 47r with lockup and see how much we'd gain.....
 
Goerend builds some pretty trick converters....I think that will help too. Good guess on the price though :)
 
JQmile said:
"You can't tell someone something is no good without trying it first"

Damn sure cant argue with that one!

I'll make a prediction & say if you end up 13.0 with the 727 & 3.08's ...it'll go 12.50 with a good RH & 3.54's
Either way, it will be cool to see an old 1st gen beatin up on the new iron. I know theres a couple of quick ones around, but I've been to a bunch of events & have never caught one there.
(George's little Red dont count...he's cheatin ;-)
 
turbomatt1 said:
Your logic sounds great, & you obviously have good mechanical intelect, as your grasp of what should & shouldent work is perfect. (I agree that a transbrake would / will be ugly (Mr Morrison's been playing with one) But in reality, at over 1000ftlbs of torque (wich is where he'll be if he gets close to 500hp) Fluid stall speed is little more than a suggestion when you anchor it to a 5000+ pound vehicle. (unless you come up with a converter thats about 3 feet across!)
I have a 7000lb 1-ton making around 400hp / 850ftlbs. I added a billit converter with a tow stall (much lower than stock) & in fluid drive, it changed the whoal truck. It bangs a little hard when going from D to R, & the idle is lower than I like with the air on (will stall when hot), but I love it, as the overall driveability is substantially improved. BUT, at WOT, it will still flash almost as high as the crap stocker did! (that's when I use "The Switch" ;-)

So you use lock-up right off the line?
My stock converter stalled at 1800 RPM, which was what my Goerend's is supposed to stall at. The difference being that the Goerend's is supposed to take a lot more torque before that stall gets any higher.
You're saying that any of the big-power converters from Goerends, Suncoast, DTT and ATS don't stall at 1,000 ft lbs?

You got 500 HP out of a P-pumped WH1C with no drugs? What boost and EGT's were you seeing?

Going by Suncoast prices:
Non-Lock-Up 4-speed: $2295
Non-Lock-Up Converter: $683
Lock-Up 4-speed: $2695
Lock-Up Converter: $1295

So that's an extra $400 in the transmission, and an extra $612 in the converter. Plus $5 for the switch ( :p ) and it's an extra $1017 to add lock-up. And since Suncoast only considers the 3-speed non-lock-up as $400 out of the $800 core charge on the 4-speed non-L/U, I don't know if you can get anything for it as a core for the 4-speed L/U. There's also the adapter housing.

I would imagine that a built 3-speed would be a few hundred cheaper than a built 4-speed too, and then you wouldn't worry about the expense of mounts and driveshafts either. But I couldn't find any Diesel shop to rebuild my 727.

Is there a reason why you couldn't run a manual valve body in a L/U trans?

Since the truck in question has no intercooler stock, water injection becomes the cheap alternative.

If I had to put money on it, I'd say that lock-up would shave 5% off of the hypothetical 13-second time. So 12.35 seconds, or a .65 second difference.
 
turbomatt1 said:
Damn sure cant argue with that one!

I'll make a prediction & say if you end up 13.0 with the 727 & 3.08's ...it'll go 12.50 with a good RH & 3.54's
Either way, it will be cool to see an old 1st gen beatin up on the new iron. I know theres a couple of quick ones around, but I've been to a bunch of events & have never caught one there.
(George's little Red dont count...he's cheatin ;-)

Just for that prediction, I'm going to spray it till it goes 12.99 LOL

Or the 1/8th mile equivelent anyways (c.8.30s)

I'm just having a buddy who works at a regular trans shop rebuild it. So I should have like $600 in the converter, maybe $500 in parts (just clutches and stuff, no hard parts) and a six pack of beer in labor costs :)
 
:tree: I have never ran mine down the 1320 but i know off the spray i can smoke a 2006 6spd vette so what ever those run in the 1/4 im faster.
 
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