1st gen Homebrew Twins
- Thread starter sundaybacon
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sundaybacon
Dat ass
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- Oct 25, 2012
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Agreed. Thinking about buying their 12v exhaust flanges to build a manifold.
Extended Power
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Yes they seem to have a lot.
I wasn't too impressed with my last order of bends and tubing, and mentioned it in the "additional notes" area.
They gave me stickers, a pen, and a sucker...:hehe:
Mooner1
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- May 22, 2009
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Love the way this set up turned out man. :Cheer: I have been trying to decide between the backwards mounted primary/secondary hangin out there front & center. Or, well, this now. Hadn't seen the side by side in a first gen yet. Other than a longer hot pipe it kinda looks to be the best of both worlds as far as clean looks & performance. The hot pipe may be a beeotch with this version but to me it is better than hiding away the big turbo. Nice work, video? Hmmm?
:charger::charger::charger:
:charger::charger::charger:
sundaybacon
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Thanks man im pretty happy with it, for my first twin build.
Ive heard the longer hot pipe can affect spool up but these chargers are pretty small compared to most so i think it should still light fast.
If you use an hx/s300 with a straight compressor outlet, you could mount the secondary backwards. But the HE turbos have a 90* outlet.
Im pulling the head now for gasket, studs, orings so after its broken in i Will definitely get some videos.
sundaybacon
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New O-Ringed head and ARPs are in. She lives again. Have done one heat cycle and retorque so far, Still have some random stuff to make here and there. Just about to go finish the downpipe then take her for a spin. Here are some pics in the meantime.
Ported vs Stocker
Ready to impale the head on these money stakes.
60# springs and Orings. Nothing special.
Hot pipe wrapped.
Inlet divider fabbed for t4i flange.
Ghetto fabulous hot pipe support made from some bedframe, tied to motor mount, stock holes.
Started polishing comp housings, but didn't finish and It shows. Holding off on this, just want to drive my truck.
Got em back in to start plumbing.
With the 6" AFE on there.
Still have some heat cycles/retorques left. Being super OCD about it. Don't really want to do a HG again for awhile. Then Ill start tuning and get some vids.
Ported vs Stocker
Ready to impale the head on these money stakes.
60# springs and Orings. Nothing special.
Hot pipe wrapped.
Inlet divider fabbed for t4i flange.
Ghetto fabulous hot pipe support made from some bedframe, tied to motor mount, stock holes.
Started polishing comp housings, but didn't finish and It shows. Holding off on this, just want to drive my truck.
Got em back in to start plumbing.
With the 6" AFE on there.
Still have some heat cycles/retorques left. Being super OCD about it. Don't really want to do a HG again for awhile. Then Ill start tuning and get some vids.
sundaybacon
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Thank you, that sounds awesome! Maybe if I still cant figure the BOV after i replumb it in, and check for boost leaks, we could diagnose that as well. I marred the upper O-ring in the bov tryin to get that snap ring in, so im sure that isnt helping. It has only worked a handful of times for me. So im guessing it had to have leaks somewhere.
sundaybacon
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Im running to get some clamps to wrap the down pipe then i can throw it on and drive it finally. Yes ill have drive, overall boost, and primary boost, which is normally the fuel psi gauge.
8UPRACIN
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- Dec 17, 2008
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Yea if an o-ring isn't perfect it might hang up. Use sly glide when re-installing. I use filtered drive pressure on the top port and a little bit of regulated boost in thee lift port. I actually have a regulator inside the cab to fine tune it. Bring it on dyno for some dyno and drags!!
sundaybacon
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Just driving it lightly so far, only to 15 psi, this thing is silent. I expected the exhaust note to be quieter, and the whistle to be much more noticable. But you cant hear anything until 15 psi. Even then its a whiaper... its weird. But it definitely has a stronger mid range. Skipped a tooth on the pump gear when I had it apart, so I need to mess with the timing more as well.
Let the tuning begin. Woooo.
Let the tuning begin. Woooo.
sundaybacon
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Well I think I found the problem. The hx was spinning freely, but possibly not spooling, only see overall boost, which has been under 10psi, until some heat cycles and retorques are done to seat the O-rings better. Found oil in the interstage pipe and 341 comp. So back to the shop that rebuilt it to see what the dude can do. If im SOL, Im getting a 472-75/83/1.1 for a primary. Will give me a little more room to grow.
Should have bought one in the first place :doh:
Should have bought one in the first place :doh:
Gasoline Sucks
slow 12v
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Looking good :clap:
Last edited:
sundaybacon
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Thank you Sir.
Just going to run the 341 as a single so I can finish some heat cycles/retorques.
Not sure if I should do a hot retorque with o-rings or not. Heard it helps seat better, but I also dont want to break a stud off.
Just going to run the 341 as a single so I can finish some heat cycles/retorques.
Not sure if I should do a hot retorque with o-rings or not. Heard it helps seat better, but I also dont want to break a stud off.
sundaybacon
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Having an ongoing issue of the hx55 blowing oil.
It was freshly rebuilt before it went back on the truck. Took it off and back to the shop after the first signs of oil leaking was present. He said all was well internally and sent me on my way, saying it had to eiher be getting too much pressure, or wasn't draining properly.
The oil drain is a straight shot to the pan, as close to edge as possible so as to be below the oil level in the pan. So I know it is not getting backed up.
Had a oil inlet fitting welded up/redrilled to 3.5mm and made a restrictor to see if that would help, and while the second run around, there was less oil in the compressor housing/interstage pipe, it was still leaking. Also from my research people are running no restrictors with no problems. So really the only thing left is rebuild quality.
Not sure what to do.
But finished the downpipe and just about everything else, besides the oil issue.
It was freshly rebuilt before it went back on the truck. Took it off and back to the shop after the first signs of oil leaking was present. He said all was well internally and sent me on my way, saying it had to eiher be getting too much pressure, or wasn't draining properly.
The oil drain is a straight shot to the pan, as close to edge as possible so as to be below the oil level in the pan. So I know it is not getting backed up.
Had a oil inlet fitting welded up/redrilled to 3.5mm and made a restrictor to see if that would help, and while the second run around, there was less oil in the compressor housing/interstage pipe, it was still leaking. Also from my research people are running no restrictors with no problems. So really the only thing left is rebuild quality.
Not sure what to do.
But finished the downpipe and just about everything else, besides the oil issue.
Is the air filter restricting it making it suck oil? Maybe rebuild guy did not change all the bushings or put one in backwards or oil deflector is at wrong angle. I rebuilt an hx35. Your turbo is probably similar. Did you see him take it apart? on a side note how has it been running?