47rh valve body help

M

montser633

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Nov 30, 2012
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I'm working on a build trans had to adjust the line pressure and found the tv cable broken so I replaced that now it shifts at 1300 rpm with the tv cable extended when back and adjusted the tv slack adjuster and got it to 1500rpms do I keep screwing in the tv adjuster a little at a time? There was a plunger ran off the tv arm should they be just touching? Shifts seem to be smoother is there a reason or the shifts are so low causing that?
 
If the TV cable is just barely pulling, then you'll have very smooth/slightly slipping shifts. Sounds like you arent getting tension in the TV line. At WOT it still shifts at 1500rpm?
 
The tv cable is tight as I can get it with out playing with the slack adjustment. It shifts very low daily driving and shifts aren't very noticeable trying to get my shift points back up around 1900-2000rpm range. Have not gone wot run yet don't want to ruin anything yet. I don't mind the harsh shifts it bothers me more not feeling them
 
Ok I adjusted the tv slack cable more to bottom out the slack arm at wot with the tv cable maxed sill shifting at 1500 rpm can't control shift points trans is at 185psi line pressure. Did a wot run and shifts at 3000 rpm boost down 2 psi I assume by that its not sloping as bad. Can I go further on the tv slack adjuster even though it bottoms out at wot or will it bend and have other problems?
 
Ok raised the tv pressure a lot now went for a ride fuild level good 1st gear shift is firmer and 1-3 are still very soft for a shift kit trans is now down shifting again what could be wrong? Servos are aftermarket upgrades but don't know quality could it be due to leakage? How hard would it be to change a shift kit for a more known brand?
 
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Spend the money on a valve body that's proven and make shore you use a in/lb tq wrench and tq wverything down to spec if not you will have cross leaks and multiple other problems.
 
What all did you do to your trans? Those shift kits can be sketchy if you dont do everything 100% correct, which is why most people get a valve body. Not to mention the customer support, know how, and guarantee you get with buying one.
 
I had it built by a local trans guy and he pretty much is blowing me off and it my dd I know from little he would say its a dual disc torque convertor (never new they made one?) company unknown shift kit unknown
 
No have not checked gov pressure can someone enlighten me on how/ where to test that? Thanks guys for help
 
Passenger side of trans, up high near where the OD housing bolts on. You should see 0 at idle and roughly 1psi increase for every mph speed increases.
 
mathews8pt said:
Passenger side of trans, up high near where the OD housing bolts on. You should see 0 at idle and roughly 1psi increase for every mph speed increases.
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I wonder if you can tap into a wire by the PCM and read the output of the solenoid there? Does it read in voltage, or resistance? I would be very surprised if it was PWM or digital in any way. Anyways, if someone knows, it might be easy to read with just a multimeter while driving.
 
CorneliusRox said:
I wonder if you can tap into a wire by the PCM and read the output of the solenoid there? Does it read in voltage, or resistance? I would be very surprised if it was PWM or digital in any way. Anyways, if someone knows, it might be easy to read with just a multimeter while driving.
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Its an RH, it has a mechanical govenor.

I have no idea if that would work on a RE though
 
Ok so my trans guy lied to me line pressure is at 85psi an drops a little to 78 at wide open measured at accumulator port and got a reading of almost 2 psi per 1mph on the top port above the low/reverse port now what I'm lost now
 
So line pressure does not increase with throttle input? But tv cable is hooked up correct?
 
For grits and shins if you zip-tie the tv lever to 3/4 throttle and go for a drive what do you get as far as governor pressure? Just an FYI, the hardest problem to diagnose and correct is a man-made problem..
 
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