48RE Performance Transmission Rebuild

Lets talk about some of the "extra" modifications. My trans has been through twice, once by a reputable national builder, once by a local builder that was semi-reputable. There is no added lube hole for the sprag, 48 re belleville spring, and no extra hole on the direct drum. This trans has held 1000 rwhp very reliably and still looks great on the inside, I'm only going thru it because I'm switching out some shafts. Whats everyone's feelings on these modifications? Is it more of a "some do, some don't" or are they "necessary".
 
TheBigNasty said:
Lets talk about some of the "extra" modifications. My trans has been through twice, once by a reputable national builder, once by a local builder that was semi-reputable. There is no added lube hole for the sprag, 48 re belleville spring, and no extra hole on the direct drum. This trans has held 1000 rwhp very reliably and still looks great on the inside, I'm only going thru it because I'm switching out some shafts. Whats everyone's feelings on these modifications? Is it more of a "some do, some don't" or are they "necessary".
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They are recommended in old 727 performance building books
 
Does anyone know what clearance I should be seeing on the od brake between the top steel and the wire snap ring? I have .070 I'm using a patc plate and 6 fractions with no wave ring thanks for the help


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You don't measure to the snap ring. You can lay the spacer, bearing and OD piston in there and measure between top steel and od piston. Should be around .110


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mathews8pt said:
You don't measure to the snap ring. You can lay the spacer, bearing and OD piston in there and measure between top steel and od piston. Should be around .110


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I've already measured the for the od piston there just seems to be a lot of room between the Top steel and the wire snap ring. I can fit another .070 steel in there with the clutch pack stacked is that normal ?


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No it's usually almost touching. What size spacer did you end up needing?


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Do y'all have any suggestions on getting the clutches to line up where the forward clutches meet the planetaries?

Also, how do I check to see what size thrust washer I need between the input shaft and int shaft?
 
Found it, they are for input shaft end play. Spec is .034-.084

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Thank you Will!
With this write up and some others, lots of phone calls, and your parts I rebuilt my 47rh. This thread makes it easy and removes the black magic.
 
What is a cheaper way to upgrade the pump, front drum and planetary from a 47RE to a 48RE's? Simply sourcing a used blown 48RE or buying them separately? I'm assembling the parts to build my 47RE but might as well do it right the first time if I'm not sparing any costs.
 
48s can be hard to find complete. If you can find one that's probably your best bet. As long as the hard parts are good in it. F

Figure a pump is ~250 alone


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Mark usually has them fairly often of the 2WD variety which is all that I would require I believe, seeing as the OD's are the same clutch counts. Just trying to figure out the best plan of attack and associated cost differences.
 
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