99 FL60 mutt/conversion/repower project build

I forget, what suspension you swapping in?
....What happened to that tank in the background? Looks like it imploded, like the myth busters rail car.


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Stock suspension is going back on.. rear is getting ready geared from 3.73 to 3.07.. since I can't fit the FL60 in my shop I set the rear axle/suspension in it plus swapping center sections will be easier when I'm not climbing over frames and Crossmebers.

Pulling the 13.5' of slip frame someone put on it, off
Wire wheel the frame..
Wheel base should be ~150-160" when it's back together OEM build was 150"

The **** tank..
Vacuum safety relief failed, or it just rusted out from haul **** for at least 20 years, and couldn't suck **** slurry up 12' out of the pit that's under the barn behind everything
 
Once everything is setup.. plan is to swap the front leaf springs suspension for the air ride suspension that's few post up.. right now that's wants list and not need/must be done list
 
Down to dropping the fuel tanks and pulling bolts out of the crossmember and slip frame comes off..
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Wasn't the PITA I thought it would be.. alot of the bolts weren't as tight as I thought they would be. Found alot of nylon lock nuts.. will be using metal Stover lock nuts on final assembly with grade 8 bolts
Made progress.. bolts are in the main/min required stuff suspension related stuff.. question is what to do with all the other holes.. how does one fill them.. lab metal?
Ready-to-use Metal Repair and Patching Compound


Welding? Welding heat treated metal is an issue..
Might be calling frieghtliner and seeing what a set of rails would cost, at least it would give me an idea of cost...

Also up in the air is whether to extend to 162" basically I'd move everything back 12". OEM is 150" 12" with be moving the crossmember that the impact is laying and bolting the front bolts in the rear bolts..

Need to get a needle gun to get some of this scale crap off.. then clean primer/paint frame rails

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I think your looking at pieces of that lab metal falling off if you try to patch your frame holes with it. It says it's for spreading not filling holes first of all and I think the frame will flex and just crack them out of the holes.

Looks like your putting a pile of work in. I don't remember reading but are you doing anything with the garbage cab and interior freight liner put in their trucks?
 
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How many holes? If it's only a few, why not just put bolts in them?


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I think your looking at pieces of that lab metal falling off if you try to patch your frame holes with it. It says it's for spreading not filling holes first of all and I think the frame will flex and just crack them out of the holes.

Looks like your putting a pile of work in. I don't remember reading but are you doing anything with the garbage cab and interior freight liner put in their trucks?

Haven't gotten to the cab yet, weatherstripping on both doors and wing winds will get Replace, most like be putting dynomat or similar down.. thought about putting a vintage air type unit under the bunk which would help augment the main AC/Heat.. and keep bunk area ventilated..

Still up in the air about gauges, easy 20-24 things I'd like to be able to keep tabs on.. couple 3 3/8" gauges for speedo/tach and a bunch of 2 1/16" guages or go with racepak IQ3S for similar $$

Both seats are air ride, so far only company that makes a cooled seat is minimizer that's ~2000.00.

I'll put basic radio in with 4-6 speakers, CB obviously. Have a 1000w inverter that's 5-6yo probably get new one prices have dropped drastically and units gotten better.

Has power windows, heated mirrors, manual locks, tilt and telescoping steering, have new fan, switches, most like swap in a new evap as well, see if I can't get a cabin filter setup too..
LED headlights, and everything else..

Jeese there's easy 2-3 dozen holes.. if not more ranging from 1/2-7/8" diameter
 
Basic Gauges
Speed
Tach
ECT
EOT
EOP
EGT
boost
Engine air Filter restriction
Trans temp
Diff temp
System air pressure
Suspension air pressure
Lift pump pressure
Voltage
There's more but those are minimum
 
Personally I don't think the holes hurt chit, are you just wanting them filled for appearance reasons?
 
Have you looked into PG Adams? For new rails? I think they are in Vermont.


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Called pg Adams... 2500 for 2 grade 80(80,000psi yeild) 20' 10" 1/4" with ~75 holes in each.. rough round trip shipping ~600.00 2-3 day one-way transit time.. ~2 weeks fab time.. put them in par with dealer
Minus me removing at Least one rail to send to PG adams
 
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Called pg Adams... 2500 for 2 grade 80(80,000psi yeild) 20' 10" 1/4" with ~75 holes in each.. rough round trip shipping ~600.00 2-3 day one-way transit time.. ~2 weeks fab time.. put them in par with dealer
Minus me removing at Least one rail to send to PG adams
They can't punch it on the vin? I talked to one of their reps a few years ago about my 359 and he made it sound like they could take the vin and adjust the options to get what you wanted.

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im not getting that either..why fill em or swap rails..thats a project man..get a body man to lead em
 
They can't punch it on the vin? I talked to one of their reps a few years ago about my 359 and he made it sound like they could take the vin and adjust the options to get what you wanted.

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Something about being a direct competition with the OEM to make frames was what I was told..

Basically one less thing for DOT to possibly ***** about
 
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