A1000

Crap I missed the thread....sorry! I got a PM about someone having an issue and I think this is it so here are the pics I just took.

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Overflow valve replacement banjo or you can use an overflow valve with it.

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Here are the parts to do it using push lock hose method. They come with aluminum washers but regular Cummins OFV washers will work to.

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When it's all together the nut for the 6AN fitting will hit the pump case if you try to tighten it with the banjo installed, what I do it finger tighten the fitting for clearence then install the banjo and position the line were I want it snug, then tighten the return line nut snug.

Hope this helps, Jim
 
thats nice looking jim

arent you concerned with the fuel becoming stagnant inside the pump?

would seem to me that once it was full of fuel (as soon as you flip the switch) the fresh cool fuel would take the path of least resistance and come out of the #1 dv holder (same place you are putting it in with the second line)

i was gonna dual feed mine but as soon as i saw down under the dv holder and realized that both ports meet there (front plug and stock return) it didnt seem like such a good idea

thoughts?

don
 
That is just one line, the other tees in at the stock inlet port. I still have all the stock stuff in place and it works great, the other is just an aux system, am I worried at all....heck no!

On my 01' 12V I will likely just run a single 8AN inlet as it will have a electric pump an no mechanical.

Jim
 
Well after making some phone calls I have decided on the raptor 150gph. No return line to run, regulated bypass right at the pump with pressure to 50psi if needed, and it comes with all new lines and fittings. All for $390:rockwoot:

Thanks for all the info though guys!
 
if you are gonna go that route thats fine...but i would still recommend getting rid of the stock ofv and putting a reg in its place

what are you going to use to supply the pump?

filters?

don

ps if it has a bypass you will have to run a return
 
SINNER said:
I've had them apart to rebuild them. Try that and then talk to me....1/8" is being conservative. Most likely less. Until you get into the BIG ones. They are more like a 1/4" LOL With a 6an line running 16' back to the tank I can back the pressure off to 12 psi. And that pump puts out 1500 lbs. an hour at 2500 rpm. 3 times the fuel that little electric pump is doing on it's best day.
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I have been looking at the billet belt driven fuel pump, but you said it puts out 1500lbs/hr @ 2500 rpm. Here is the chart on Aeromotive's site.
img-6-2-large.jpg


But it would take the engine running 5000rpm to make the pump spin 2500rpm. Then at 3500rpm it would still only be putting out just under 140gph, right? And at the engine speed of 2000rpm it would only be about 84gph, is that flow enough for 12v?
 
smokin24valve said:
I have been looking at the billet belt driven fuel pump, but you said it puts out 1500lbs/hr @ 2500 rpm. Here is the chart on Aeromotive's site.
img-6-2-large.jpg


But it would take the engine running 5000rpm to make the pump spin 2500rpm. Then at 3500rpm it would still only be putting out just under 140gph, right? And at the engine speed of 2000rpm it would only be about 84gph, is that flow enough for 12v?
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Why can't you just change the pulley and run it at engine speed? Or even overdrive it for a diesel? Problem solved;);)

Chris
 
is the pump designed for a v-8 and to be driven off the camshaft?

prolly is and prolly why their chart says 1/2 of engine speed

as mentioned above, with a belt you can swap pulleys to make it pump more or maybe even less if needed

that chart is for 60 psi

the pump is gonna flow a lot more at only 30 or 40#
 
shiftycapone said:
Well after making some phone calls I have decided on the raptor 150gph. No return line to run, regulated bypass right at the pump with pressure to 50psi if needed, and it comes with all new lines and fittings. All for $390:rockwoot:

Thanks for all the info though guys!
Click to expand...


Thats what i want, i figured the a1000 would be cheaper though.
 
Signature600 said:
Why can't you just change the pulley and run it at engine speed? Or even overdrive it for a diesel? Problem solved;);)

Chris
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Bingo!


I said pump speed. The amount of underdrive or overdrive is dependent on the pulley ratio's. It can be any where from 1-1 to 10-1 or what ever you set it up for. With the CR limiit at 4k it's set up to run at 2500 rpm pump speed at 4,000 rpm. Give or take a few hundred rpm's. I could never see a need to overdrive that pump or even run it at 1-1. There are a few trucks I know of that made 8-900 on a A-1000. I think they are rated at around 700 pph. @ 40-50psi.
 
I see that Jegs carries there Marine fuel pump any pros or cons to that 1000 lbs/hour

EFI HP Marine Fuel Pump #027-11110 Specs
-12AN inlet and -10AN outlet
Flow exceeds 1000 lbs/hour @ 13.5 volts/45 psi
Requires EFI regulator #027-13114
Use only with EFI requiring 30+ psi (not for carbureted applications)
Supports boost reference up to 100 psi
Fuel injected engines:
Up to 1600 HP for naturally aspirated
Up to 1100 HP for forced air induction
 
so by the time you buy that pump, matching reg and a prefilter you will be in over a grand

you will still need a 2 micron filter, a housing for it, a water sep if you req one, all the fittings and all the lines, and a sump or a fuel cell

then, depending on your model you might need to modify some of the factory lines too

can you still buy the fass pump seperate?

aeromotive makes nice stuff but spending two grand on a fuel system is a little nutz
 
Instead of fighting the return down behind the pump, you can do it like I did and used the original line from the filter to the pump on the return with a little tweaking and flaring the end.
attachment.php
 
or you can do like i did if ya dont like flares

take the original inlet line for the fuel filter canister and cut it so that all you have left is a 90° bend and the banjo

then you take a steel AN plug throw it in the lathe and open it up til it has a .320 hole in the center of it

braze the plug on the end of the tubing and its done

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to keep the fitting from rusting i hit it with a rattle can before installing it

using this method you can run a -6 line to the regulator - thats why i didnt use one of those pretty lookin AN banjo fittings. there is not enough clearance for -4 back there, much less -6

and if i were you i would not use the front plug for a 2nd inlet. that boss goes to the same spot that the return comes out of so what ever fuel goes in there it would go right back out to the regulator
 
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DTanklage said:
and if i were you i would not use the front plug for a 2nd inlet.

that boss goes to the same spot that the return comes out of so what ever fuel goes in there it would go right back out to the regulator
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the boss for the front plug does not go into the pump body, but instead it meets with the return boss, both meet in a vertical hole directly below the #1 dv holder

its hard to explain, somewhere on here there is a picture of a pump with the #1 dv holder removed and you can clearly see why you would not want to try to put fuel in there

a compressed liquid will always take the path of least resistance

dont do it :umno:

:badidea:
 
stovepipe said:
I see that Jegs carries there Marine fuel pump any pros or cons to that 1000 lbs/hour

EFI HP Marine Fuel Pump #027-11110 Specs
-12AN inlet and -10AN outlet
Flow exceeds 1000 lbs/hour @ 13.5 volts/45 psi
Requires EFI regulator #027-13114
Use only with EFI requiring 30+ psi (not for carbureted applications)
Supports boost reference up to 100 psi
Fuel injected engines:
Up to 1600 HP for naturally aspirated
Up to 1100 HP for forced air induction
Click to expand...

Those pumps get too hot for anything less than competition use. You also need to use a large regulator or 2 smaller 1's with those to flow enough fuel to keep the pump from burning itself up. A friend of mine went thru 3 of those within a few months and then switched to the smaller A1000 sized pump and no problems for 2 yrs. now. Loud as hell also.
 
you will still need a 2 micron filter, a housing for it, a water sep if you req one
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Filter Housing from Cummins is $22 Pn 142784-S and it still needs #10 O-Ring fittings, A Racor S3201S Filter (2 Micron) with water separator bowl is $52.

I won't do this again, next time I'll buy an Airdog!

Jim
 
Yea I thought that it was pertty pricy too, I would like to get some more info on the airdog and what size's they have I was thinking around a 180gph or is that overkill Iam thinking later down the road.
 
airdog, a reg, and a sump - you still are into it for about a grand

and thats using brass/steel fittings and rubber hose


ps - that filter that jim mentioned is mongo

4" dia

10" tall

one of the benifits of building your own system

how large is that water sep jim?
 
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