Another rusty ugly budget drag truck

I dropped the valvebody and going to take a look around, wish me luck.
 

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Some more fuel on the way.
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Plan on using two of these housing one with fuel water separator and the other a regular fuel filter. I'm thinking after the pump so the electric pump doesn't have to suck through them. Run a -8 push lock from sump to pump and then through filters to stock lift pump. Wire it to come on with ignition. I can suck air through it so I believe the truck will still run with it off or if it fails.
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What brand of pump is that? I've enjoyed following your build.
 
That is the china special holley black knock off, they are all over ebay.

The valvebody is cleaned and re-assembled. Next step is pressurizing the od port where the valvebody bolts up and see what happens. Looks like I will be pulling the od housing back off.
 
$350 for a craigslist transmission and I have a working overdrive. I swapped the od housing from the craigslist find onto mine. I have only tested it once so far but we are
In business.
 
Box the whole frame or don't box it at all. At least if you plan on doing anything other than drag racing the truck. That **** will resist the frame twist and cause the frame to start cracking.
 
Why do you feel it necessary to box the whole frame? The frame seems much weaker than I thought it would be. I plan on making plates to go in front anf behind the notch.

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Its not necessary to box the frame. I don't recommend boxing it for 12" or whatever. Guys do it on lowriders all the time but this is not a S10. Like I said before. By boxing the frame you keep whatever section you boxed from twisting like it was designed too. Box the whole frame and nothing really twists box just a section and you create stress were the unboxed flexing frame tries to rip apart from the boxed section. See it alot on offroad rigs.

Look at this picture and try to visualize it.
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Not ragging on you. Your willingness to get it done is awesome. Your DSM stuff is fast and impressive.
 
I have noticed that it is very flexible so I understand what you are getting at. How do you feel about the sqaure section inside to reinforce the notch?

Got some work done yesterday. I got tired if drilling and started hitting the rivets with a chisel and they came apart pretty easy.

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Thanks for the compliment on the mirage. I actually parted it out and am throwing the engine in a 92' 4door awd mirage. I also am building a honda at the moment. Its a 2001 insight and I have a 2009 si k20z3 engine and 6speed lsd trans. I am piecing the parts together to turbo it as well. Should make 500whp on pump gas and 600whp on race gas or e85, it also should weigh about 2100lb.
 
92' mirage with dsm awd drivetrain. This one is going to be more of a street car than the last with a manual trans and hopefully ac. I havent decided on what turbo to use but it should be a bit lighter than the solid axle white mirage.

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Heres the 01' insight sleeper project.

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That insight will be a bad azz sleeper. People won't know wtf to think when you blow their doors off lol.
 
The depth of the web cut out is the problem...

So...lets say the frame was a 1/4 inch formed 6 inch channel with 2 inch wide flanges.

You basically went from an S= (2(6^3-5.5^3)/(6x6))+(0.25x5.5^2)/6) = 4.017in^3

To a frame similar to that but only 2 inch channel with 2 inch wide flanges...

Ended up with an S= (2(2^3-1.5^3)/(6x2))+(0.25x1.5^2)/6) = 0.87in^3

You are more than 4 times weaker....and will have 4 times the deflection. So what of flexed a 1/4 inch under extreme load...will now bend 1 inch or more and probably stay bent.

Rule of thumb for those not mechanically/structurally intelligent...put back exactly what you take out.
 
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