Anybody else get a good look at the new comp wheels on the Holset turbos???

Signature600 said:
Doesn't drive too bad, but only builds about 6psi below 2K RPM...after that, she rocks and rolls. It's just a BIG charger!


I'm busy the next couple weekends, but I'll work on it when I can and see if I can make it any better!
Chris
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It will be cool if you can manage to get this turbo to behave on the street... Sounds like it's getting a little bit better, keep us updated :Cheer:

On my end of things, I have managed to find a slightly stronger material than 12.9 grade bolts that Fastenal has, so now I'm just trying to find time to go take some measurements on an old style 625 stud kit that a friend has (probably would help if I called him to see when he'll be home) and bump my timing.

Also had a triple pod pillar mount given to me, so I'm also going to finally install a drive pressure gauge. I might try to switch to drive pressure to control the housing, but I'll decide that after I see what it's doing.
 
BlackSkyRacing said:
It will be cool if you can manage to get this turbo to behave on the street... Sounds like it's getting a little bit better, keep us updated :Cheer:

On my end of things, I have managed to find a slightly stronger material than 12.9 grade bolts that Fastenal has, so now I'm just trying to find time to go take some measurements on an old style 625 stud kit that a friend has (probably would help if I called him to see when he'll be home) and bump my timing.

Also had a triple pod pillar mount given to me, so I'm also going to finally install a drive pressure gauge. I might try to switch to drive pressure to control the housing, but I'll decide that after I see what it's doing.
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Do tell!! This is exactly what I'm looking for!! Well, my truck has been looking for it actually! Honest.
 
Hey black sky. i'm starting a 4bt project and i'm planning on fooling around with this vgt stuff. if you don't mind i got a few questions for ya. what kind of needle valve did you use for your boost refrence line? what kind of spring did your waste-gate actuator control use?
I was thinking about how this all works and the only thing that seems to make sense to me is this...
a waste-gate is designed to open up at one pressure. the spring(as far as i can understand) opens up at 'x' pressure. at not before...so to me it would only make sense to have a variable spring rate on the spring or you would never be able to spool the turbo. to start it all working you'd need to have some boost and as you gain boost the spring would give more and more until full boost. now, i understand that you've made it work...so did you change the spring or am i missing something?
 
thegreengobin said:
Hey black sky. i'm starting a 4bt project and i'm planning on fooling around with this vgt stuff. if you don't mind i got a few questions for ya. what kind of needle valve did you use for your boost refrence line? what kind of spring did your waste-gate actuator control use?
I was thinking about how this all works and the only thing that seems to make sense to me is this...
a waste-gate is designed to open up at one pressure. the spring(as far as i can understand) opens up at 'x' pressure. at not before...so to me it would only make sense to have a variable spring rate on the spring or you would never be able to spool the turbo. to start it all working you'd need to have some boost and as you gain boost the spring would give more and more until full boost. now, i understand that you've made it work...so did you change the spring or am i missing something?
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Wastegate actuators can be tuned to open at a range of pressures. The stock HX35's start to open at 19.3psi and limit completely to 22psi (according to the books on a stock truck). But to open at 19.3 psi there is actually a bit of tension held on it. So by releasing the tension, the HX35 actuator I am using starts to move at about 12psi. Then with a backstop on my arm I can limit how far the housing opens and it makes ~45psi of boost.

I am about to install a drive pressure gauge to see the pressure ratio to see if I need to modify my backstop to incorporate a spring. That way I can open up the max size of the housing if needed and use a spring to slow down how fast it opens.
 
hmmm...i c. that makes much more sense. you say your going to use a spring to open the wastegate slower. does it open too fast?
did you end up using a needle valve to slow closing or a spring of some kind?
 
thegreengobin said:
hmmm...i c. that makes much more sense. you say your going to use a spring to open the wastegate slower. does it open too fast?
did you end up using a needle valve to slow closing or a spring of some kind?
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That was the idea with the needle valve, to slow things down that is, but I haven't really needed it... The housing doesn't open to fast as is, the idea would be to keep the housing from opening too far without enough boost/drive pressure that it doesn't move enough air. I found out that about 3/4 the way open is too far and it gets hot (I could peg an 1800* pyro) because it can only produce ~32psi of boost. Right now I'm a tad under 2/3 open at max and it produces ~45psi of boost on a good cold or humid day and runs about 1500* at max while towing... Like I said I haven't added my drive pressure gauge yet though so I have yet to see the drive ratio. I plan on doing that sometime next week if I get the chance. Depends on how much the dye they inject into my hip for an MRI on Monday messes with me :doh:
 
I said I'd update this...I'm making a little progess...


Did a little tuning this weekend, got the HE551 to make 50psi boost instead if the 42-44psi I was getting...not really what I was going for, but I'll take it, because...


I got this thing spooling better...how does 24psi in neutral free revving sound, and able to do a 2200RPM, 25psi launch with a DTT Super Single converter (TIGHT)

It felt REAL good on the launch, but I'm thinking the top end might be a little lighter, so after I get the leaky exhaust manifold gasket fixed, I'm gonna let the housing open up a touch more, and see what happens...

I'm not giving up yet, but I did order twins parts today...the VGT is going away, but I think I might have made some real headway here!

Chris
 
Signature600 said:
I said I'd update this...I'm making a little progess...


Did a little tuning this weekend, got the HE551 to make 50psi boost instead if the 42-44psi I was getting...not really what I was going for, but I'll take it, because...


I got this thing spooling better...how does 24psi in neutral free revving sound, and able to do a 2200RPM, 25psi launch with a DTT Super Single converter (TIGHT)

It felt REAL good on the launch, but I'm thinking the top end might be a little lighter, so after I get the leaky exhaust manifold gasket fixed, I'm gonna let the housing open up a touch more, and see what happens...

I'm not giving up yet, but I did order twins parts today...the VGT is going away, but I think I might have made some real headway here!

Chris
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Cool! Sounds promising... How much would you want for one of those 551s that you have anyway? Maybe after I get married and my budget isn't all tied up I can get one of them from you to toy around with :poke:
 
I got this thing spooling better...
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How did you do that? How does it drive on the street?

Also, BlackSky...any updates on your setup? Did you get your studs/timing straightened out?
 
Dudge said:
How did you do that? How does it drive on the street?

Also, BlackSky...any updates on your setup? Did you get your studs/timing straightened out?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I don't dare touch my truck right now... #1 I'm in the middle of planning my wedding and the purse strings are pretty tight. #2 I'm driving my truck to Florida from Wisconsin for my wedding. <- I know it will make that trip as it sits, I don't want to bump my timing or disturb my HG until after I make that trip in early January.

I may however in the mean time at least switch to drive pressure to run my actuator and install a linear actuator to adjust the initial housing size and EB function :D
 
Ok, so I've been brainstorming and I've come up with a simple way to control my EB function PLUS get two programed initial housing sizes!

I did a little digging and came up with these:

Burden Sales Surplus Center Item Detail

Burden Sales Surplus Center Item Detail

I also took a couple minutes to draw out a simple schematic of how I can set everything up

VGTcontrolwithactuator.jpg


Bonus is, I think I can get it all done in the next couple weeks without getting castrated :bang
 
Trapper said:
Good luck with that.
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LOL

Well, you see, I actually have a couple of reasons that I might be able to get away with it... I have to go over Mt Eagle in TN so getting the EB working is a safety bonus and being able to open up the housing should help with fuel mileage.

That and I've been getting some side work that I should be able to pay for everything with. Meaning her wedding budget will not be disturbed.
 
nice idea! hope it works, and the controller isnt near as expensive as i would have thought! obviously it'd work better than mine!
 
12valve said:
nice idea! hope it works, and the controller isnt near as expensive as i would have thought! obviously it'd work better than mine!
Click to expand...

I think if you flipped your set up around it would work the same way as mine. That way your WG actuator is pointing down and on the other side... Then the EB set up would be the same, use the WG actuator to hold tension on the arm and pull your (electric) actuator in to engage the EB.

Guess the only possible problem with that would be the WG actuator clearing the shock tower :bang <- reason #1 I love my 2wd :hehe:
 
Reason #2- no death wobble
lol
reason #3 our output shafts seem to not break as easy
 
12valve said:
Reason #2- no death wobble lol reason #3 our output shafts seem to not break as easy
Click to expand...

^^True! LOL

I finally found a dyno that isn`t a half a day`s drive to get to... So when I get back from getting married I`m gonna give it a shot and see if I`m anywhere near the 400hp I am hoping I`m at. The overall goal is to make 500rwhp with this charger :ft: maybe 600 or better with something along the lines of an S475 under it :Cheer:
 
Finally got around to installing a Drive Pressure gauge and switching my turbo over to being controlled by DP... Spools faster yet since I can close up the housing a little tighter and it won't choke out before opening like it would while running on boost. The transition is a lot smoother too. Drive pressure runs 1:1 till about 35psi then goes up to 40psi boost and 55psi DP at max.

Also, I have all the parts coming to get my EB to work coming in the mail, should be here tomorrow :woohoo:

Oh I had to clean the exhaust side out too since it was getting a little sticky again. Finally figured out that there was a sealing ring in the center of the collar that also helps to scrape the soot (and oil) off the inside of the collar, which is where it gets sticky. Happened to pop the compressor housing off and remeasure the wheel... It is a 60mm inducer, 93mm exducer and the wheel is 34mm tall (vs the HX series 27mm).
 
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