Anybody else get a good look at the new comp wheels on the Holset turbos???

Ok, well I finally got to putting it together... Gonna finish the install this week along with my trans so hopefully before this weekend I'll have some feedback on how it works/performs :Cheer:

For now here's a few pics.

start to the bracket for holding the actuator
03-15-09_1736.jpg


Wasn't much of a fan about it being a single scroll turbo... So I modified it for the first 5 inches. Lets the front 3 cylinders get into the turbine wheel quicker and the back 3 pulse it later (hopefully).
03-15-09_1738.jpg


The exhaust exit had a weird neck down on it that restricted it to about 2.5" I solved that problem too :D
03-15-09_1737.jpg


The actuator mounted
03-15-09_1819.jpg


The arm extended, raised, and connected to the actuator
03-15-09_2116.jpg


Sorry for the crappy pictures... Only had the cell phone available, the good camera was in use elsewhere :(
 
Looks great man. Props to ya for trying something different. Very interested to see how it turns out. A soundclip would be nice as well.:clap:
 
so does the actuator hold it in the "closed" position (i.e. veins slid all the way into the scroll?)
 
hmmm.... so "exhaust brake" mode with no boost, assuming thats how he is actuating the whole she-bang
 
My experience with holset VGT's thus far has been nothing but headache...

I guess the wonderful people that designed these said "lets make out VGT turbos odd as hell as far as turbine flanges & discharges are concerned"

;)
 
I'm struggling a bit with mine as well. I don't have an actuator laying around so I'm trying to rig up springs to hold it shut and let drive pressure push the vaned sliding collar open. Problem is that the vaned collar has factory drilled holes that let drive pressure get behind the collar. Seems like a wastegate actuator is going to be the ticket. Hard to justify 80-120 bucks on an actuator for a turbo you spend 100 bucks for.
 
Maybe I missed it, but how big is the compressor on this? I saw the calipers on the turbine pics.
 
CSM diesel said:
so does the actuator hold it in the "closed" position (i.e. veins slid all the way into the scroll?)
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Yes

CSM diesel said:
hmmm.... so "exhaust brake" mode with no boost, assuming thats how he is actuating the whole she-bang
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Yes, but this turbo is an exhaust brake on an 8.9l (~550cid) engine. That and if I had to I could always extend the arm on the actuator; it's not holding it very tight right now.

dragnsled said:
Not with a 400 series charger they only go down to 9cm and light super quick
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Something like that... :D And I didn't like the idea of my exhaust gasses violently expanding so far before the turbine wheel and loosing lots of energy. By going in ~5 inches I am allowing the front three an opportunity to enter the turbine wheel before expanding anywhere else (other than at the T-3 to goofy T-4 adapter). Even though the VGT should make for wicked fast spool I want as much efficiency as I can get. That and that housing is HUGE and I was a little worried about it.

CSM diesel said:
My experience with holset VGT's thus far has been nothing but headache...

I guess the wonderful people that designed these said "lets make out VGT turbos odd as hell as far as turbine flanges & discharges are concerned"

;)
Click to expand...

Ah yes, you've noticed this too? Goofy things... Two holes were threaded, other two were for studs, and a T-4 gasket works on this one, but you have to elongate the holes quite a bit. I made an all new adapter for this turbo (my old HX40 had a T-4 foot).

Big Blue24 said:
I'm struggling a bit with mine as well. I don't have an actuator laying around so I'm trying to rig up springs to hold it shut and let drive pressure push the vaned sliding collar open. Problem is that the vaned collar has factory drilled holes that let drive pressure get behind the collar. Seems like a wastegate actuator is going to be the ticket. Hard to justify 80-120 bucks on an actuator for a turbo you spend 100 bucks for.
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Yeah there's all kinds of little holes in there... I was thinking of doing the same thing myself at first since I didn't have one layin around either. Ebay has some cheapo actuators for $20-30. I just went to the local truck yard and robbed one off a core engine (5.9) and only paid $20 for one that looks to be brand new :rockwoot: I love having friends at the local truck yard :D

Oh, and I almost forgot, I will definitely get some video up as soon as I get it going. I also got a needle valve to put inline on the boost reference line to hopefully keep the housing from trying to slam shut when I let out of it quick cause otherwise that's a :badidea:

EDIT: The compressor wheel measurements are at the end of my first post. 60mm minor, 90mm major and what appears to be an extended tip, CNC machined, billet titanium comp wheel :woohoo:
 
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Wonderful people at Holset indeed... With the elongated intake on the compressor housing I was forced to flip my manifold to make room for an elbow or air filter. Problem that created is that now I cannot shut my hood and I will have to make a VERY custom DP and probably still clearance the firewall.

So I've decided to go the easy route and just throw a 3" body lift in my truck.

Now that I've thought about it though, simply cutting the intake tube down and putting a 4" OD pipe inside with about 1.5" protruding will allow room for a filter or the stock intake elbow to fit with the manifold NOT flipped. That should also solve any issues with the DP.

Too late for me... But maybe I can save someone else the trouble I'm going through. I kinda planned on putting in a body lift anyway so I can run 33x12.5's with out rubbing. But this kinda MAKES me do it.

BTW, so you guys know; I ended up with three 7/16" studs and one (shorter) 3/8" stud. Flange is already welded to the manifold and the studs are plug welded from the back to make sure they wouldn't come out :( (I'm all about the overkill).
 
Black sky, are you sure you are holding that housing shut with the wastegate actuator? On my He351ve, the lever must be pulled toward the compressor housing to close down the vgt for max spool up.

I don't know if the HE431 is exactly backwards but it sure looks very similar to the HE351ve.
 
CSM diesel said:
Chop the sucker off of there and keep your manifold un-flipped:)
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I'd have to make another notch in the flange because of how short the stud is. Plus I don't think I can fit a bigger nut where the smaller nut goes right now since its tucked tight against the exhaust housing and the band that holds the housing on...

XLR8R said:
JB Weld?
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LOL God how I wish it could be of use right now...

Big Blue24 said:
Black sky, are you sure you are holding that housing shut with the wastegate actuator? On my He351ve, the lever must be pulled toward the compressor housing to close down the vgt for max spool up.

I don't know if the HE431 is exactly backwards but it sure looks very similar to the HE351ve.
Click to expand...

Yes, I had the exhaust housing off a couple of different times playing around with it and getting it clocked right. Not to mention I was curious to look at how it worked... The nozzle piston (or what ever you want to call it) moves in the same direction as the arm on my turbo.

Either way, I've already got most of the stuff required to put a 3" body lift in and I've been meaning to do it anyway... My truck gets used on the farm and being able to fit some taller/wider tires without rubbing is welcome in my book.
 
CSM diesel said:
So much for it being a "bolt-on," sorry for the sour luck buddy....
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Yeah... I was a little tweaked about it for a day or so. But now it doesn't bother me. Made me do something that I've been kicking around for a while anyway. Not to mention it could have been bolt on had I gotten creative with the intake and just chopped it off. Guess me wanting to actually use the air intake temp sensor on it kinda bit me in the arse :doh: <- Wouldn't be able to use it if I chopped the intake off.

I'm also the kind of guy that actually likes fabricating to make something work. Especially if no one else (or at least very few) has tried what I am doing :D

Going to be working on it today/tonight and probably tomorrow as well, but I hope to get it up and running and get some video up of it running :Cheer:
 
Made some decent progress last night on the truck (considering how late I got started). Took us a while, but after looking at it and feeling too lazy to go pull the body lift out of another truck for mine, we decided to make it work with everything the way it is now.

Turns out there was enough room for the DP, but I'm highly considering header wrap for it to keep from scorching my firewall and some nearby wiring and vacuum lines. Shouldn't have to do much, but I'll probably have to trim some of the "frame" under the hood so the hood will clear the top of the turbo.

Otherwise I did a bunch of other things while we were in the process of scratching our heads... Tinted my side windows, installed some nice LED clearance lights, fixed a wiring problem with my door speakers, and finally got around to modifying my AFC. :woohoo:

Have to go out to my dad's shop and find some O-ring to AN fittings to plumb in the oil for the turbo. Still trying to figure out exactly how I'm going to route the water to the center section. But that's a detail for AFTER it's running.

Oh and I had to come up with a custom pipe from the turbo to the IC and happened upon a piece of 3" stainless that was already bent/welded in a way that I can use it :rockwoot: Also found another piece of stainless that has the elbows I figure I need to make my own intake horn and I'm going to throw a piece of 4" chrome on the outlet side of the IC to the intake horn... Just cause I can, but that's all later; after it is running.

I'll keep you guys updated on the progress I make today :Cheer:
 
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