Billet cam, what machining is necessary?

Levi_plummer

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May 14, 2012
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Looks I will be selling my 188/220 to buy a bigger cam for my new motor. Was contemplating going billet but I already have my short block completely assembled and was wondering if I would have to have the journals line bored for bushings or if you can run it without? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
 
how bout asking the builder of the cam? they might each have a specific procedure to follow for their cam, otherwise you may get bad advice, end up re doing the whole build.
 
So far, I've gotten away with stock cast journals in the block and my billet Hamilton cam, the key word is so far....
 
We usually recommend can bushings throughout all the cam journals in the block. We have had street trucks with moderate spring pressures and rpm get away without it. I have also had high powered twin turbo common rail engines have trouble transferring material with stock cams. So we recommend on all of our performance builds. We do the machine work and install the bushings for $600 is cheap insurance really.
 
Was just typing what D&J said. Oil has a lot to do with helping wear, but once you get enough spring pressure, and rpm, the cam could touch the block. Also when you start the engine there isn't always oil pressure at the cam right away. That is also part of the problem. I basically tell people I have seen some guys get away with out the cam bearings, but I have seen some really tore up cam tunnels even on a cast cam. So it is your risk. Is the time and money you could save to not to put in cam bushings, worth a wrecked cam, the time to take it apart when you need the engine to run, and possibly a wrecked block. That is what your betting on. Be careful to fall into the idea that you can just run less spring pressure. You need enough to keep the valvetrain stable or else you are causing other problems. I recommend cam bushings. Even when I get a build to come in even for 500 - 600hp, I know down the road this person may want to go bigger. We bush the block right away. Its done, and we don't have to worry about it. He can keep upgrading with out having to tear down the whole engine again.
 
What bushings are you guys using? I used 24v cam bushings in my 12v block, since the 24v bushings are thicker.
 
I am setting my tooling up to use 12v bushings at the moment. If you happen to spin it ect, I can cut them to the 24v bushing. It's easy work. For the small amount I have in tooling I really can't afford not to run bushings
 
So far, I've gotten away with stock cast journals in the block and my billet Hamilton cam, the key word is so far....

Soo what cam are you running? I planned to go with another Hamilton.. What springs are you running and how many rpm's?
 
I have a 188/220 steel cam with Hamilton's 185# dual valve spring setup, at the drag strip it never sees much over 3600 rpm. I've done a couple of 30 second long burnout contests that touched 4600 rpm. All in all, the motor has maybe 500 street miles and 50 1/4 mile passes.

I run conventional cheap Walmart 15/40 with 1/4 bottle of Lucas Break-In Oil as a home-brew additive. This gets the zinc numbers above 1600 PPM for about $4 extra per oil change. http://lucasoil.com/images/documents/TDS_Break-In-Additive.pdf
 
I have a 188/220 steel cam with Hamilton's 185# dual valve spring setup, at the drag strip it never sees much over 3600 rpm. I've done a couple of 30 second long burnout contests that touched 4600 rpm. All in all, the motor has maybe 500 street miles and 50 1/4 mile passes.

I run conventional cheap Walmart 15/40 with 1/4 bottle of Lucas Break-In Oil as a home-brew additive. This gets the zinc numbers above 1600 PPM for about $4 extra per oil change. http://lucasoil.com/images/documents/TDS_Break-In-Additive.pdf

So does that get the Zinc levels up to where Hamilton prefers them? Where can I get that stuff at? Thanks!! After speeding with Ryan at Hamilton I am going to put it back together with my current 188/220 and out back for one of there heads.
 
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