bio diesel

ok im starting to get convinced.... but the b100 still gosts me 2.09 vs 2.85 for 2%... so i dont know if its worth it...


oh and when does it cost $100 for that fuel filter. both together cost like 60$
 
Racing4funn said:
B100.. But I dont run it stright.. often more than 50/50... 10 years from now all you will be able to get is Bio blends and not even ever talked about..

And right now, its better for your injectors and motor over the new ultra low sulfur for increased luburication.

What is the sulfur content of the b20-b100 fuel you get?
 
50stangpower said:
ok im starting to get convinced.... but the b100 still gosts me 2.09 vs 2.85 for 2%... so i dont know if its worth it...


oh and when does it cost $100 for that fuel filter. both together cost like 60$

Even if you did mix it (B100) 50% to (#2) 50% it would eave you very much at all. I wouldnt even turn my truck around for the difference. ONLY IN SUMMER WEATHER WOULD I RUN 50/50. I also wouldnt run a blend of more than that if you are wanting to stay trouble free.

You should go to the trouble, not for the cost because there isnt much there, but because you like the idea of NOT giving the oil Co. more money and you like the idea of running a Bio source fuel. Bio also can be made at home.

Unless you are making at home, there is not financial reason to Bio
 
PSDPlayer said:
What is the sulfur content of the b20-b100 fuel you get?

You may have me on something there but I THINK that its real real low and the higher lubrication comes from the oil source. IE. corn or peanut or vegie
 
I have run quite a few tanks of B60 (or so) thru my 06 and have not noticed a bit of difference, other than the smell. I run an Insanity tune all the time with a big fuel line kit to the front of the heads and a rear x-over line. This has only been in the warmer summer months as I am in MN. All diesel sold here is atleast B2.

I feel better using a fuel we make here, I would rather help US farmers than the crazys in the Middle East...
 
I have have been keeping an eye on this thread,....but racing4funn's computer english has me totally confused.

I needed a decoder ring,..just to understand his posts.

"B100.. But I dont run it stright.. often more than 50/50... 10 years from now all you will be able to get is Bio blends and not even ever talked about.."

"Even if you did mix it (B100) 50% to (#2) 50% it would eave you very much at all. I wouldnt even turn my truck around for the difference."

"You should go to the trouble, not for the cost because there isnt much there,"

"Unless you are making at home, there is not financial reason to Bio"


Hey guys,...if you want to help us ,....with good info......proof-read your post, before you send it!!!


And if any of the above qoutes, still make sense to you,....after you have proof-read it,.....have someone else proof read it, before you grace the entire WWW with your knowledge.

i was hoping to get some very usefull information,........now i feel more retarded.
 
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Yea that post was made over my internet phone while driving down the hwy. Later that night I checked the thread on my computer and I wanted to edit that post but it was too late.. I feel like a retard! So, any questions? lol
 
Naw, no questions....I just like learning about everything,.....but i was WAYYYYYYYY confused about what you were saying....lol

If ya really want to help me understand,...go back and edit....lol
 
Ill just make a new post.. Editing it would require too much work.. I was trying to tell the other guy I quoted that its not going to be a cost saving incentive when buying commercial Bio blends. There is a HUGE savings when making it yourself. Use commercial blends for a self reliant United States..

I also wanted to say that for people wanting to stay trouble free with their truck should not venture higher than B50.. In Tennessee, we dont have anything but B20 and B100. So to get more than B20, one would have to mix it their self.

In cool weather stick with B20 or less

I run a heavy mixture. Sometimes as much as 80% bio. This is because I make my own Bio at 70 cents a gallon. So the more I can get away with using, the cheaper it is on me!! :)
 
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I understood ALL of that....thanks.

If i was driving through Tennesse,.....I'd pull up to the pumps,......Then I would fill half with B100, stop pay bill, fill the other with #2, then top it off with Power Service cetane booster.


I have a question, I have about 20 gallons of Wesson vegetable oil,....only used once to fry some turkeys, it's has been thouroughly strained,.....could that be used as fuel?
 
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you can use clean vegitable oil if it is heated, most people run 2 fuel systems, they start the truck on #2, run it for a minute or 2, the water from the radiator runs through some copper type tubing in the tank full of veggie oil and heats it and thins it, once the veggie oil is ready you switch fuel systems, and the truck runs fine on the veggie oil, you have to make sure the fuel filter on the veggie oil stays clean because if you loose fuel pressure to the injectors stuff starts to go bad... when you want to shut the truck off you switch back to #2 to clean out the veggie oil from the injectors and fuel lines so it will start when you get back to it.
there are some new systems that use electric fuel line heaters to heat the veggie oil as it passes through the line and as it goes into the fuel pump, it works well you just have to activate the sytem before you turn the truck on if you plan to fire up on veggie oil.
you cannot just mix the veggie oil in your fuel like an additive, it wont mix well and stuff will clog, thats what the bio diesel is about, its a conversion to make the veggie oil into a fuel with a similar consistency to #2, you mix it with your #2 and it runs great, it is slightly thicker than #2 so thats where the worries come from about running higher than 50/50, and you can set up and make the stuff at your home. if i remember right you can make the fuel for something like under a dollar a gallon, but of course you should mix your new fuel with 50% #2 to run it in your truck...
 
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