blu_by_u's P-pump swap

Great seeing you too. Wish I would have had the straps to make you an ECM mount.

No problem Chris. It all worked out anyway since I finally settled on using the original 24 valve tappet cover. I just mounted the ECM back on the block, just farther back on the block.
 
what kind of ecm mounts are you making? have any pics?

I'll try to describe it:

He mounts a piece of flat steel under the head of the engine mount, then welds a piece of steel to it and bolts the ECM to it. The welded pieces of steel are in the shape of an "L".
 
I'll try to describe it:

He mounts a piece of flat steel under the head of the engine mount, then welds a piece of steel to it and bolts the ECM to it. The welded pieces of steel are in the shape of an "L".

got any pics
 
Progress has been slow. My drive to work is roughly 40-45 minutes so when I have been getting off work after 5pm, it's 6pm by the time I get home, then supper, spend a little bit of time with the family, etc.

I wanted to get the pump ready to install for good on the engine so I did a little prep work. Here I am removing an oil plug to make room for the pump oil line fitting. The instructions said to use the fitting right behind the factory oil line to the aux drive.
IMG-20120718-00386.jpg


Here is the fitting in the block.
IMG-20120718-00387.jpg


This is the restricted fitting in the pump.
IMG-20120718-00385.jpg


hey man great thread!! if you dont mind i have a few questions on the above pics....tried sending you a PM but your inbox must be full
 
Just a pointer, if you are pulling the pump again to do the tappet cover cut a slot into the front of the pump shaft. With your TDC pointer you can use a 3/8" drive flathead attatchment and a breaker bar and you will be able to set the dampner and rotate the pump to make timing adjustments in minutes. I have pictures if you need them.
 
Just a pointer, if you are pulling the pump again to do the tappet cover cut a slot into the front of the pump shaft. With your TDC pointer you can use a 3/8" drive flathead attatchment and a breaker bar and you will be able to set the dampner and rotate the pump to make timing adjustments in minutes. I have pictures if you need them.

THAT IS BRILLIANT! It took me a while to follow along, but I get it now. Thanks for the tip. I have the tappet cover fixed now, so I'm not sure when I will be taking the pump back off again, but I might look for a reason now. If you have pics to post that would be great!
 
These are the only two I can find but I will look later.I used a small block timing pointer and just bent it to fit on mine.

pumpshaft.jpg

tool.jpg
 
Thanks for the pictures. Did you have to take the pump to a machine shop to cut the slot?
 
My last pump was done when I got it but I was lazy on this truck and had of apart for a cam swap so I just used a thin cutoff wheel.

IMG_20110426_124746-1.jpg
 
Here's two pics of the turning tool that dvst8r (Brett) and I fabbed up two years back. I saw it from someone else on here earlier. Its a pump nut welded to a 1/2" NF nut with a spacer between. Jam the bolt against the end of the shaft, use a wrench to turn the pump, release the jam bolt, then set the gear in place. Works great, no need for slotting pump shafts.
 

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Here's two pics of the turning tool that dvst8r (Brett) and I fabbed up two years back. I saw it from someone else on here earlier. Its a pump nut welded to a 1/2" NF nut with a spacer between. Jam the bolt against the end of the shaft, use a wrench to turn the pump, release the jam bolt, then set the gear in place. Works great, no need for slotting pump shafts.

I forgot all about that little tool. I will put it on my to do list!
 
The only issue with the one Tate and I fabbed is Tate grabbed some random spacer off the floor from some place he was working and it was some sort of crazy alloy and was a huge B1tch to weld. Other then that the only thing better is an adjustable pump gear.
 
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