Blue smoke observations...Ideas?

I hooked my gauge up to the inlet banjo bolt on pump. Pulled it off an drill from inside out to keep centred an then tap with pipe thread for your snubber valve
 
Ordered up new banjo with snubber built in from tork tek, going to scrounge around for a fluid filled gauge. New filter going on tonight regardless. maybe i did pick something up from my tank.

backstory, bought the truck as a complete unit, drove it for a week in approx the same ambient temps. I dont recall it ever smoking blue...white/grey on initial light off for a few seconds but thats it.

over next 2 months i transplanted it into my 91/06 ford crewcab. only thing done was reseal oilpan, oil cooler, front rear main, KDP and timing, new fuel filter. and if i recall right, been smoking blue ever since.. Only thing that really changed is fuel filter, and fuel tank..
 
Just a thought but I run atf in my fuel for lubricity and help clean injectors i also run diesel supplement as well.
 
Ram12vcummins said:
Just a thought but I run atf in my fuel for lubricity and help clean injectors i also run diesel supplement as well.
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ATF does not lube diesel components. Upon my research, it's more of a cleanser.
 
BRE said:
ATF does not lube diesel components. Upon my research, it's more of a cleanser.
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Bah lol it does one of the things I want. I know it will clean up an injector sometimes. The supplement should add lubricity as well. I know others who run 2 stroke oil.
 
Ram12vcummins said:
Bah lol it does one of the things I want. I know it will clean up an injector sometimes. The supplement should add lubricity as well. I know others who run 2 stroke oil.
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Like I said... upon my research. I'm not a scientist.

As for the timing I guess I misread. One post sounded like it was fine prior to this and that and the other sounded like it was not.
Guess my reading comprehension is lacking some stuff...
 
2 stroke oil is where it's at for a fuel added lubricant. ;) Carry on with the smoke fixing. I have similar issues and would like to see where this goes.
 
Changed fuel filter, fillted with ATF and 2 stroke, starterted it, let it sit overnight, still blowing the blues on startup 2 days later.

Gauge and snubber will be here tonight so I can get some metrics for you guys.

Once this damn cold spell lifts I will change the valve stem seals. Already have em and the compressor, not a big deal, just one thing to cross off the list to what it can/cannot be. I dont think they are the culprit but...cant hurt..
 
I realize this is repetitive, but I'll say it anyway.

Make sure you have the correct chart and are setting the timing correctly. Its happened several times on here that the wrong chart was used, they were turning the engine the wrong way, on the wrong side of the cam, etc. In many of those instances they had said they had verified the timing as well. If you know someone with a timing light and pulse adapter, it makes that much simpler.

Find a set of known good injectors. New doesn't always mean good.

Your symptoms do sound an awful lot like retarded timing. Try bumping it up and see what difference it makes.
 
Tate said:
Make sure you have the correct chart and are setting the timing correctly. Its happened several times on here that the wrong chart was used, they were turning the engine the wrong way, on the wrong side of the cam, etc. In many of those instances they had said they had verified the timing as well. If you know someone with a timing light and pulse adapter, it makes that much simpler.
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Cause I've never done that..... Lol
 
Im not trying to be defensive, but I did check it twice.
it went like this: endine TDC. timing pin was lined up. I though, oh crap so it is retarded because engien plate says 12.5 BTDC, but I am getting timing at 0 ok
So I advanced it 15 degrees. Was hard to start, and when I drove to work i felt like i was driving a stick of TNT. Sounded like a piston was going to evacuate itself at any moment.

Came back home and realized it is ALREADY factory timed to 12.5 btdc with the cam pin engaged. So backed it off to factory, went to spin the engine and nothing.

Realized the gear spun, and i was 330 deg retarded.

Redid everything, got it to TDC on cam and pump pin, advanced it another 2.5-3 degrees to get 15-15.5 deg. locked it in. Started right ran good

Rechecked it the day after to be sure, still at 15-15.5.


I definitly do understand new doesnt mean good. Ive had that happen with my old IDI using pensacola injectors.

But these were PDD injectors.
Symptoms were the same before the swap, put in PDD injectors (stock size), symptoms continued, ultrasonic cleaned my injectors, symptoms continued.

right now the damn engine sprung a small coolant weep near the water pump. pump and gasket are brand new (gates..) Waiting for it to warm up right now. Tired of working out in frozen weather.
 
Greg5OH said:
Redid everything, got it to TDC on cam and pump pin, advanced it another 2.5-3 degrees to get 15-15.5 deg. locked it in. Started right ran good

Rechecked it the day after to be sure, still at 15-15.5.
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Engine at TDC. Pump pin in place. Which direction did you spin the crank to gain your 3 degrees and did you use the wrench on the alternator or the bolts on the harmonic balancer?
 
used wrench on alternator, to retard the engine.
Looking at the front of the engine the crank spun counter clockwise.
 
installing the gauge this weekend, been slacking.
in the mean time this is what im dealing with to give you an idea..
..pretty ridiculous

[ame="http://s207.photobucket.com/user/PolishSasquatch/media/Safety%20Boots/07C495FE-28A4-4E0B-A560-B875241BCA98_zpsbrefupaq.jpg.html"]07C495FE-28A4-4E0B-A560-B875241BCA98_zpsbrefupaq.jpg Photo by PolishSasquatch | Photobucket[/ame]
 
07C495FE-28A4-4E0B-A560-B875241BCA98_zpsbrefupaq.jpg


Looks similar to mine. Only time is goes away is if I HAMMER on it hard for a couple pulls. Then it will clear up for like 1 minute.
Cummins Idle haze - YouTube

Remove everything outside of
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but mine clearls up completely once its warmed up to temp.
then sometimes it actually will haze at idle like yours, but probably 1 in 10 times i look for it at hot idle...

delivery valve issue?
need to check pressure,
then i will try crackign each injector at a time to try to isolate.
 
You can get a cheap 100psi fuel gauge from Harbor Freight that fits the 10mm plug on the stock fuel filter. Tape it to your windshield. It's like $20. Doesn't get more plug and play than that.

Also, if fuel pressure isn't your issue, and it's not injectors, and it goes away when you warm up the truck a bit, I'd bet my money on a plunger sticking a bit in your injection pump.

Current day pump fuel doesn't have much sulfur in it and these pumps were designed with the thought that the fuel would be lubricating parts. Adding an additive (like Power Service or Howies) is not just for winter use, but for adding that lubricity back into your system. Try buying Power Service from any gas station, putting the recommended amount into your fuel, and seeing if anything changes. If it does, then it's likely your injection pump (which can be fine indefinitely longer if you keep using additive, in my experience).

Oh, and don't put ATF or 2-stroke oil into your fuel.
 
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