olegreen, there is a saying if you allways keep doing what your doing you'll allways get what you got. if you go out on a limb to try something new and your not scared to break and repair or return to step 1 then you haven't lost anything. but a little time welding gas and some scrape steel. in the few vechicels i've had drag racing and the couple cars road racing frame flex is the worst thing. you can not dial in a chassis for maxium traction when the body or frame is flexing throwing your set up off worse than when you started. i would think the same would go in sled pulling. its all about putting the power to the ground. if it would lift the front because the rigidity of the frame then the traction bars might need to be lenghtened to help rotate the front down with force from the rear and hanging weight will help with the front also. with your single cab truck you'll be able to hang a good bit of weight. WTD
I agree. If I'd of listened to everyone else when I built my stroker, I'd have the same truck as everyone else. According to some my truck shouldn't even run, but its doing just fine:ft: And if it don't work for ya old green, I'll come down and help you put another frame under it, you've got a few to choose from.olegreen, there is a saying if you allways keep doing what your doing you'll allways get what you got. if you go out on a limb to try something new and your not scared to break and repair or return to step 1 then you haven't lost anything. but a little time welding gas and some scrape steel. in the few vechicels i've had drag racing and the couple cars road racing frame flex is the worst thing. you can not dial in a chassis for maxium traction when the body or frame is flexing throwing your set up off worse than when you started. i would think the same would go in sled pulling. its all about putting the power to the ground. if it would lift the front because the rigidity of the frame then the traction bars might need to be lenghtened to help rotate the front down with force from the rear and hanging weight will help with the front also. with your single cab truck you'll be able to hang a good bit of weight. WTD
i don't think we're missing anything.. mod trucks have a solid rear suspension with a tube chassis and coil-over control arm suspension in the front.. solid rear suspension doesn't move and the chassis doesn't flex..
Yes sum, but it keeps the front end planted as well. IMO a solid ridgid frame would be great on a 2wd puller
Not the best picture, but kinda shows my thinking behind frame flex.
Of course your picture shows and you are making an assumptions that may or may not be valid.
Your having the vehicle flex at the rear axle, most of them appear to flex at the bed/cab joint.
The frame will flex wherever you have your suspension stops installed.. The stops will act as a fulcrum.. I'm assuming it looks like the frame flexes at the cab/ box joint, because four of the six bed bolts are behind where the stops go, if I'm not mistaken..
:clap: I need more diesel pros like you, LOL :hehe:
One thing you guys have to remember is that with the mod trucks. Diesel or gassers with there tube frame and totally gutted steel bodys or glass bodys is that they are so light in the rear end that the weight in the weight bar can be way more than you will see in any normal street truck pulling. Im not 100% sure on the diesel mod truck but I know up here that the Gasser Super Mods (blower trucks) are light enough than 2 average sized guys can pick up the back end and turn the truck (this is with a 6200lbs truck)