Budget 6.70 drag truck build!!

Finally truck made a pass at the track. Wasn’t a very good one but it drove back into the trailer so I’m happy. Been busy trying to tie up the little things that it had to have to make a pass. And the track we went to mostly does no prep and is very bouncy. But anyways the truck ran somewhere in the low 8 second range. They didn’t have to times ip and didn’t give out slips so I wasn’t very happy about that. Had way to much pressure in the slicks and the truck spun pretty good on the launch and finally started to grab and was trying to bounce. Then I eased off of it a hair and laid back into it and it started pulling hard. Based off how quick the last half was shouldn’t have a problem going low 6s. But anyways. Here’s some pics of the homemade caltracs and the truck before it went. Bed mounts weren’t done so i ran without bedsides.
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jasonc said:
What staging psi can you make?
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Held 15-20 easily. Didn’t try to go any further. On that pass I left at 10 and it just spun. But track was horrible. Going to a actual prepped track this weekend.


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jasonc said:
Big tires and "caltracs" you need to hit the tire.
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I had alittle more air pressure then I should’ve as well. Atleast that’s what a few truck guys that are similar said. I was at 14 they said there they have to run 8-10 sometimes even 7


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Not gonna lie, the welds that I see are pretty cringe worthy.....not trying to be a dhick.:aiwebs_016:
 
I'm wondering if the pinion angle from lowering the rear is hurting the traction... Is that rigid brake line in the rear permanent?
 
That thing might come up a little better with some afc work, looks like you're flooding that charger
 
RacinDuallie said:
Not gonna lie, the welds that I see are pretty cringe worthy.....not trying to be a dhick.:aiwebs_016:
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Trust me I’m aware. I’m not much of a welder. Getting better with time. I had a buddy that’s certified welder a lot of the main stuff. And I’m not very impressed with the outcome.


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T-MAN said:
I'm wondering if the pinion angle from lowering the rear is hurting the traction... Is that rigid brake line in the rear permanent?
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It has a rubber section that lets it have planety of travel for the suspension travel. So it won’t bind anywhere.


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zachu812 said:
That thing might come up a little better with some afc work, looks like you're flooding that charger
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Truck currently doesn’t have a afc. It was completely gutted when I got it. Was hoping a spool jet would help as far as staging and up top it doesn’t run to Smokey once it’s making boost. But I didn’t have nitrious in the truck yet so I don’t really know. I know a complete afc would make the truck run much better overall.


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iride813 said:
Trust me I’m aware. I’m not much of a welder. Getting better with time. I had a buddy that’s certified welder a lot of the main stuff. And I’m not very impressed with the outcome.


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There are countless types of welding certifications out there. I'd look for someone with experience doing the specific kind of welding you need. For example stick welding farm equipment is a whole different ball game than tig welding thin chromoly tube in restricted spaces.
 
smoken02 said:
Man that thing is gonna run once you get it dialed in on a good track.
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Yea I’m hoping so. Honestly once it started pulling it was pulling pretty hard. Wasn’t fully lit either. On the street I’ve seen 70psi boost. And on the track I barely got to 40


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iride813 said:
It has a rubber section that lets it have planety of travel for the suspension travel. So it won’t bind anywhere.


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He means the pinion angle in degrees. I went to negative 3* pinion angle with mine. It gives "caltracs" more leverage to work harder.

As in the pinion angle should be slightly pointing downward while sitting on the suspension at full weight. I went from 0 to -3, made a pretty big difference. Measured with a magnetic angle finder on the pinion. Just cut your axle pads loose and role it down.
 
And agree with a setup AFC, the track crew would sure appreciate it also.
 
jasonc said:
He means the pinion angle in degrees. I went to negative 3* pinion angle with mine. It gives "caltracs" more leverage to work harder.

As in the pinion angle should be slightly pointing downward while sitting on the suspension at full weight. I went from 0 to -3, made a pretty big difference. Measured with a magnetic angle finder on the pinion. Just cut your axle pads loose and role it down.
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On my truck I went with a 0* driveshaft angle out of the transmission and -3* on pinion.
 
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