Built 48re, is this normal?

Trap_Shooter

New member
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Messages
75
Before my tranny fluid warms up I have smooth firm shifts which I am fine with, but when the fluid gets warm above 150-160 the shifts seem to get harder and sometimes sloppy. In stop and go traffic this thing can be a real pain in the ass to drive, when it shifts from 1st to 2nd driving normal it acts like it almost shifts twice, it will jerk hard once and the truck will fall on its face then maybe a second or two later it will jerk again and go into second gear. It doesn't do this all the time, depends on the amount of throttle I am giving it, but it normally always has a sloppy shift between 1st and 2nd. On wide open runs it shifts fine, real firm, still not the smoothest in the world. When driving normal its not a pleasure to drive at all. Also when I tow with it (maybe 2 or 3 times a year now) I really have to watch how I drive it in fear of breaking something. I was going to wait till EFI Live was out to see if it would solve the issue but its getting old driving a mostly stock truck with awful DD manners. I don't drive it but maybe once a week now so that's the reason I have put up with it this long. Just looking for some input on what you guys think.

On a side note it has done this with every type of programing I have ever run, Smarty Jr, S06 TNT, and SSR.
 
Last edited:
I need to call and double check, but I believe if you clock the TV motor clockwise one tooth, it should cure the 1-2 deal. Sounds like what mine does, I've just been driving it until I officially jump to EFILive, as I was told it could also cure that.

I'd contact your builder and ask about clocking the TV, see what they say. I'm nowhere close to being a trans guru
 
I'd rather not give names but a diesel shop in the Central Ky region. My buddy had his built threw the same shop and his shifts a hell of a lot smoother than mine. I'm pretty sure his is built exactly like mine other than the converter stall. His truck is also drive by cable where as mine is drive by wire plus he has another 200hp on me, I didn't know if that made a difference or not either.
 
The 05-07 TV motor 48re's are much harder to dial in low throttle shifting perfectly. There's so many variations in the ecm communicating to the TV motor that there will be minor inconsistency from one truck to the other. I would recommend going to the builder and having him get it right for you.

Lavon
 
I also forgot to tell you guys that I have a constant pressure VB, idk if that makes a difference or not with the TV motor. Like strokeThis said, I'm defiantly not a transmission guru. Thanks for the help guys.
 
Constant pressure VB cannot be adjusted for 1-2-2-3 shift.

The CPVB does away with the TTVA motor (eventhough it's still there it's no longer making a difference). So if it shifts like crap, EFI, clocking won't work. The VB builder needs to go in a adjust the vb itself.
 
I have really been thinking about switching to a high pressure VB. The VB is threw Goerend and it would be free except shipping charges. What do you guys recommend? I'm after smooth firm shifts without the fear of breaking something. Right now every time it shifts I'm afraid something is going to break, the whole truck jerks, that can't be good on the drive train. But as I mentioned above it depends on how I drive it as to how bad it shifts, its at its worst in normal stop and go driving, and at its best in wide open runs.
 
Constant pressure VB cannot be adjusted for 1-2-2-3 shift.

The CPVB does away with the TTVA motor (eventhough it's still there it's no longer making a difference). So if it shifts like crap, EFI, clocking won't work. The VB builder needs to go in a adjust the vb itself.


If I recall correctly the TTVA still has some impact on the shift of the 1-2-2-3 shift. This was from a discussion with Goerend. It has more to do with the shift points, not shift quality.

I could be mistaken though.
 
What would be the pros and cons of me switching to an high pressure VB vs. the constant pressure VB. Do you think that would be taking a step backwards?
 
I need to call and double check, but I believe if you clock the TV motor clockwise one tooth, it should cure the 1-2 deal. Sounds like what mine does, I've just been driving it until I officially jump to EFILive, as I was told it could also cure that.

I'd contact your builder and ask about clocking the TV, see what they say. I'm nowhere close to being a trans guru

How would I go about clocking the TV motor, my understanding was there where no adjustments on the TV motor. Are you talking about removing the TV motor and moving the manual leaver it sits on (connects to) for the VB clockwise? I'm also thinking about taking it to a local shop and getting them to adjust the front band to see if that would help any. What has me so aggravated about this situation is that a person dumps this much money into a tranny to have it shift like this, I try to do things right the first time but something always comes back to bite me in the ass. I really should have had this taken care of a long time ago but its hard for me to get someone to follow me to the shop 2 hours away then have to worry about a ride back to pick it up. I can't win for losing lol.
 
Last edited:
One more thing I forgot to tell you guys is if I put it in 2nd it normally shifts ALOT smoother from 1st to 2nd than it would in drive.
 
What would be the pros and cons of me switching to an high pressure VB vs. the constant pressure VB. Do you think that would be taking a step backwards?

You don't need a CPVB for starters. A CPVB is not at all for smooth shifting and overkill for what you have. Get rid of the CPVB and get a regular "built" one and your troubles will be over.

I would understand if you had 1000hp but your no where near it and a properly setup VB on a 48RE will support over 800 hp without it being a CPVB and I have seen them hold more. The CPVB does solve some issues but there is a give and take with each setup.
 
You don't need a CPVB for starters. A CPVB is not at all for smooth shifting and overkill for what you have. Get rid of the CPVB and get a regular "built" one and your troubles will be over.

I would understand if you had 1000hp but your no where near it and a properly setup VB on a 48RE will support over 800 hp without it being a CPVB and I have seen them hold more. The CPVB does solve some issues but there is a give and take with each setup.

Thanks. It's not that the harder shifts bother me its mostly how it shifts from first to second. Like I said before it doesn't do it all the time just worse when the fluid gets warm and when driving normal in stop and go traffic. That's what has me confused.
 
Thanks. It's not that the harder shifts bother me its mostly how it shifts from first to second. Like I said before it doesn't do it all the time just worse when the fluid gets warm and when driving normal in stop and go traffic. That's what has me confused.

Yes, shuttle shifting was a problem with the 48's since there are differences in the 47-48 vb's. It was an issue with them for a while. Unless you get someone to REALLY dial in that VB, that means taking it down 5-10 times to get different spring combos, you will always have this problem. You can try adjusting line pressure up. Line pressure drops as the fluid warms up, about 3-5 psi. I would help you more but I have yet to use or run a CPVB. I have run it on a 700R4 and 383, that is a pain to drive in traffic, I hate to be in a truck with one.
 
Yes, shuttle shifting was a problem with the 48's since there are differences in the 47-48 vb's. It was an issue with them for a while. Unless you get someone to REALLY dial in that VB, that means taking it down 5-10 times to get different spring combos, you will always have this problem. You can try adjusting line pressure up. Line pressure drops as the fluid warms up, about 3-5 psi. I would help you more but I have yet to use or run a CPVB. I have run it on a 700R4 and 383, that is a pain to drive in traffic, I hate to be in a truck with one.

It is a real pain in the ass, and when it does it it does it HARD, it will defiantly throw your head forward. Idk how I have put up with it for a year.
 
Well adjusted the front band and it shifts quicker but I still get the shuttle shift (depends on how i drive it). I talked to the shop that built the tranny for me and he said that there was really no way to adjust a constant pressure VB that I would probably have to switch to the high pressure to fix the problem. Do you guys think this could maybe be a solenoid problem?
 
mines does it from 2-3 in town trying to run about 30 mph I just put it in 2 until im out of town. I feel your pain gets very annoying. I dont drive the truck that much but ive been wanting to fix mine also. ive read on one of these forums if you have a tight converter the constant pressure vb doesnt work that well. I priced the one from goerend and its pricey otherwise I would have bought one by now
 
I have a 1700 stall (which is stock stall). I found a new problem today on a test drive. On a wide open run when shifting in OD this is a 2-3 second delay, this has only started after I got the front bad adjusted.
 
Top