converting 99 24 valve to 12 valve problem

Don't know about the PED numbers.

Crank - Violet/White, Black/Dark Blue, Gray (you are correct except for the Dark Blue stripe on the Black wire)

Oil - Orange, Black/Light Blue, Gray/Black (you didn't list the Gray/Black wire)

Cam - Orange, Black/Light Blue, Tan/Yellow (you are correct)
 
For the sensor mount I used two studs that probably came from the stock 12v tach sensor bracket. One is long to go through the timing case to the block and one is short to only hold on the timing cover. I put a nut on the back side to keep it where I wanted it. and used a piece of flat metal to secure the bottom side of the aluminum bracket. I imagine this is how bigpapa did it.
 

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BigPapa said:
kleann,

I'm not sure on your situation. I just don't have any experience with it. I would think that if the ECM is looking for signal from the cam sensor and not a crank sensor, you would have to run the cam sensor and the proper cam/gear. You could run the 24V cam if you don't use the mechanical 12V lift pump. I don't know about putting a 24V gear on a 12V cam.
Click to expand...

I'm just thinking about doing it another way, since I have another truck that I'm converting too.
 
That's it. I just bent my strap over so I didn't have to use the long stud.

Did Destroked send you that bracket? slrrls didn't get one if I understood correctly.

What damper are you running? Looks a lot bigger around than mine. 24V?
 
BigPapa said:
That's it. I just bent my strap over so I didn't have to use the long stud.

Did Destroked send you that bracket? slrrls didn't get one if I understood correctly.

What damper are you running? Looks a lot bigger around than mine. 24V?
Click to expand...

Yeah 24v balancer. Destroked decided not to send the bracket the first time, even after I explained I needed it. But anyways a week later I finally received the bracket.
 
I called him monday about the bracket and received it today, one like you guys have.
Didn't charge for ship or anything.
 
I double checked the harness. I only have 3 plugs of this type that fits the crank sensor.
the colors for oil are correct, colors for Cam and oil are the same as yours but
the crank is purple/wh, black, gray.
I have the whole factory shebang on the 99 3500 remote start, alarm etc.
So maybe with all the accessories they used a different set of wires than usual on one of our trucks.


I'm curious on how you altered your accelerator cable to work on the block linkage or what ever the name is for it.

What electrical connections do I do for fuel? Is it fully mechanical?
There is a terminated wire with connector on the fuel reservoir, Have not messed with the fuel system in so long i don't recall the proper name for it.
then there is another two prong plug.
Here is a photo and another photo of the plugs I have left over that I guess I tape up out of the way.
Please look and see if you see any that need to be used in the other photo
 

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You're right on the crank sensor wiring, violet (same as purple) with white stripe, black (with a dark blue stripe-hard to see on black), and gray.

Throttle cable - I'm running the 24V APPS bellcrank so I'm running a 24V cable, TV cable, and cruise cable.

I'm not using the fuel heater or the water-in-fuel sensor. Only electrical I'm using for fuel is for the shut-off solenoid.
 
I have a problem with the main cable not reaching the the bracket.
did you have this issue?
 

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It's been a few years since I did the 12v linkage in a 24v truck. But when you use the 12v linkage I think you need the 12v throttle cable. It has a different connection and may be longer?
 
kleann said:
when you use the 12v linkage I think you need the 12v throttle cable. It has a different connection and may be longer?
Click to expand...

Ding, ding, ding.

See above post.

BigPapa said:
Throttle cable - I'm running the 24V APPS bellcrank so I'm running a 24V cable, TV cable, and cruise cable.
Click to expand...

If you're using the 12V linkage, you'll need all 3 12V cables.
 
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Looking at the 24v linkage the other day I did not see that it was easily feasible to put the 24v linkage on the 12 motor.
But after all I have never messed with this swap before this.
 
I bought this kit. 24 Valve P-Pump APPS Kit


If I did it over I would have made one myself. You take off the aluminum chunk that the 24v apps connects to and make a bracket to bolt on the p-pump and the 24v apps bracket bolts to that.
 
Yep. I bought a kit from TURBOLVR, too.

Like I've said before, there are guys running the 12V linkage and TPS successfully with autos but I don't think the cruise will work. You're also looking at more rewiring for the TPS. I wanted the cruise so I went with the 24V bellcrank and APPS.
 
Don't sweat it. You're almost done.

I told you about the APPS back in post #69 and the cables in post #86.
 
yea it's a bit overwhelming.

What did you see as the problem with mounting the tone ring sensor like this?
It seems the fan has clearance. the sensor is slightly off center
 

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Biggest problem I see is how to secure it. Also if you use a timing light that is where you usually put a pointer for tdc.
 
Problem I'm having is when I hold it like in Scott's picture the sensor does not put a flat surface on the tone ring but it is off angle.
Under what circumstances would a timing light be needed? head mod's or something like that? seems the factory would have installed a pointer there for timing
 
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