Critique my list of upcoming upgrades

O...if I only had $800 stashed in my sock drawer. I SO want to hit "BUY"! :(

DodgeSteering.jpg
 
waldershrek said:
FML.....



So I installed the fuel pressure gauge and big line kit yesterday. So far I'm only getting 8lbs of pressure at idle and when I took it for a test drive getting up to speed on the highway it went as low as 2 psi. At first I thought it can't be right but I rechecked all the wiring and stuff and everything is correct.

The needle movement seems really jerky, that why I thought initially there was a problem. The other thing is that when I shut the truck off the needle stays as whatever psi it was at. I thought that was strange for an electric gauge. I could understand a mechanical gauge still having pressure in the line.

So keeping in mind the gauge is at 8 psi when the truck is off, I start the truck and the pressure drops to sero then comes back up jerking from 0 up to 8. I thought it would be smooth like a tach for example. Is this thing working right or am I really at such low pressure!? This is pissing me off.
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I think something is wrong. I hope that isn't your real pressure. :(
 
I would think if it was really 2 psi it would be spitting and sputtering which it isn't. What should I be checking? I just don't know what else to look at. I even tried it without the snubber thinking just maybe that was to blame but no difference.
 
Truck will run with 0 psi just fine....but you should look into a new IP if you do. The IP will pull fuel. I'd check the fitting that goes into the IP and make sure the adapter you fitted on it for the pressure gauge doesn't have any obstuctions in it. Teflon tape maybe?
 
I used liquid thread sealer but I'll check it just to be sure. what about the needle movement being jerky? Are they supposed to be like that?
 
Tighten the snubber down all the way and then just barely crack it open and that should stop the needle jerking around. As for the gauge staying at 8psi when you shut it off, my EGT gauge stays at whatever temp I shut the truck off at until I restart the truck and then it drops to 0 and comes back up.
 
BgBlDodge said:
Tighten the snubber down all the way and then just barely crack it open and that should stop the needle jerking around.
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Thanks, I'll try that. I just went for a test drive to the parents and back (about 30 miles round trip) and I noticed with the cruise set at 65 mph when going up any sort of the grade the needle would jump about 2 psi back and forth the whole way up the hill. Going down a hill the pressure would increase to 8 psi. I have to go to Syracuse this afternoon which is about 30 miles each way. I'll try to get a video of what the gauge is doing so you guys can see.

This makes me wonder how long my truck has been like this. I've owned it for 3 years now and just now put a fuel pressure gauge on it. I always complained that this truck was a dog and had no power and everybody kept telling me that's how these trucks are stock. Maybe this is really why.

I planned on doing a Fass or Raptor pump anyway but now it's a priority. Should I expect the VP to go anytime now because it's been potntially starved for years?
 
about your gauges still having a reading after the truck is turned off, just turn your key to the "run" position real qucik and all the gauges will then zero back out then just turn key back to off and remove key....works for me.
 
Ok. I just thought it was weird but I guess that's normal. Now if only I could get this other stuff figured out I'll be all set!


I'm looking at pumps now. I thought I wanted a Raptor originally because I wouldn't have to worry about the return line but then a thought struck me. If I get the Fass can't I get rid of the factory fuel filter and such and just run a line right to the IP?
 
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waldershrek said:
If I get the Fass can't I get rid of the factory fuel filter and such and just run a line right to the IP?
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I still run the factory in addition to the FASS. I'm no 1/4 racer and the flow I'd gain by removing it would be moot. PSI at idle is 15 and 13-14 WOT to normal driving. $.02
 
Well just got back from my trip to syracuse. I'm pretty sure something is wrong with this gauge. It is jumping from 2-4 psi all the time now whether at idle, accelerating or whatever. However when I slow down rapidly the gauge jumped up to 12 psi.......wtf!?
 
This why I think the sender or gauge is bad maybe? Also, is the guage itself supposed to make a buzzing noise? Because it does especially under throttle. It almost stops doing it when coasting. You can hear it but very faint.

Ok here is a really bad cell phone video of the gauge jumping around.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neF59DCQ-nk

I know it's blurry and a little shaky but you can see the needle jumping 2-4 psi and this is on level highway cruise set as 65.
 
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I sent Michael from Isspro a pm seeing if he has any thoughts on what could be the problem.
 
Simplest question first - on EV2 gauges the pointer will stay at the last point when power is removed, then cycle to "home" on power-up and move straight to displaying the current value.

The VP44 trucks all seem to put a large amount of pulsation onto the fuel supply system. The closer you are to the VP44, the worse it is. For some reason when you first install the sensor it is somewhat smoother, my theory is that the air introduced into the lines will help damp the pulsations until it is all bled out. The gauge is just showing the extent of the pulsations seen in the line, although at a slower frequency than actual (the actual pulses are once every injection event).

The stepper motor movements are by nature a little noisy as the pointer moves, so you will hear the gauge especially when it is making a lot of quick movements with this kind of oscillation in the system pressure. I have occasionally run into a particularly noisy stepper motor (literally about 3 units in about 40,000 gauges). If you think yours is noisier than normal you can send it back and we can put a new motor in it. I took one of the aforementioned noisy motors and built it into a boost gauge for my TDI Jetta (with its VGT it moves a LOT), and it has been working great (but noisy) for another 2 years and 25k miles.

What kind of snubber are you using? If you would like to smooth out the movement on the gauge pointer, people have had the best luck with the following arrangement: Starting at the place where tapping into the fuel supply, run a needle valve (ISSPRO R7742 or Weatherhead 6820, the WH part usually available at larger NAPA stores). From the needle valve run a length of grease gun hose (roughly 12"-24"), then finally the sensor (zip tie the hose & sensor to something to keep them from flopping around). Tighten the needle valve all the way, then barely crack it open enough for the gauge to read.

We are working on a new software filtering algorithm which will hopefully allow masking the pulses in this frequency range, while still showing an overall change in fuel pressure. Still pretty early in the development, but hopefully have something ready to go in a few months.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
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Thanks for the reply Michael. I'm using an Autometer snubber. The pressure port is right on the 90 degree fitting of the big line kit so it's basically right at the VP which from what you're saying is contributing to the needle jumping.

So you believe the gauge is functioning normally then? Well at least that mystery is solved. Honestly now that I know the gauge is reading properly I'm not wild about the noise this gauge makes so maybe I'll switch to a mechanical although I'm not wild about running fuel into the cab either.

I guess I'm a little taken aback by the fact this gauge was over a hundred dollars and you want me to rig it up with a grease gun hose to get it to read right. Do the mechanical gauges have this same fluctuating problem?
 
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waldershrek said:
The weak link in the damn thing is that tie rod style joint on the one end. Worst design ever.
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BgBlDodge said:
Thurens prices have jumped since I bought his stuff. But a 100k miles later its still just as tight and aligned as it was the day I put it on. And I run 35s and no steering dampener.
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4x4dually said:
O...if I only had $800 stashed in my sock drawer. I SO want to hit "BUY"! :(

DodgeSteering.jpg
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Jory, buy Thuren's trac bar....without a doubt the best one I've seen;)

Chris
 
waldershrek said:
Thanks for the reply Michael. I'm using an Autometer snubber. The pressure port is right on the 90 degree fitting of the big line kit so it's basically right at the VP which from what you're saying is contributing to the needle jumping.

So you believe the gauge is functioning normally then? Well at least that mystery is solved. Honestly now that I know the gauge is reading properly I'm not wild about the noise this gauge makes so maybe I'll switch to a mechanical although I'm not wild about running fuel into the cab either.

I guess I'm a little taken aback by the fact this gauge was over a hundred dollars and you want me to rig it up with a grease gun hose to get it to read right. Do the mechanical gauges have this same fluctuating problem?
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The gauge is reading correctly, it is just following all of the pulsations in the line. Most mechanical gauges will have some restriction built into the gauge, as well as mechanical friction in the mechanism (which is higher when the gauges are new), so they may smooth out the pulses more, at least until the gauge wears in and has less friction. You might want to try the needle valve first in place of the snubber, it will achieve a noticeably smoother pointer response. If you would like to send the gauge head in, I can have the prototype software installed with increased filtering.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 
Ok, I'll try the needle valve first. If that doesn't fix it to my liking I might send it in. The buzzing really driving me nuts. Why does the gauge jump to 10-12 psi if I slam on the brakes?


Now on to the next problem......ordering a Raptor or Fass. I'm also concerned about the IP going any day now that I know it's been running at 2-8 psi for god knows how long.

I believe I have the in-tank pump. How do I confirm this?
 
Mechanical gauges are just the same. I run a needle valve on my mechanical gauge otherwise it would bounce so fast between 0-30psi you wouldn't be able to see the needle.
 
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