Cummins NTC-350

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3QXDaJ9QOE"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3QXDaJ9QOE[/ame]

The second year I pulled the K100, just a little pump work and was still working on the farm.
 
I was hoping to be a little further ahead this year with mine. I was planning a big cam build but with recent developments that's been out on hold. Maybe next winter.

I have to pull the radiator and front cover to put a new front main seal in this spring, hoping to regard the timing while I'm in there. Curious to see how that'll work.


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I was hoping to be a little further ahead this year with mine. I was planning a big cam build but with recent developments that's been out on hold. Maybe next winter.

I have to pull the radiator and front cover to put a new front main seal in this spring, hoping to regard the timing while I'm in there. Curious to see how that'll work.


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You lose power.
 
That small cam is set at .035 from the factory, even though it doesn't have the travel of a big cam I am surprised that it takes fuel at any rpm below 17-1800 at that setting.
 
To keep from burning the pistons out of it at lower rpm, I don't know if you saw one of Lenny's other post but if you mash down on the pedal at a certain rpm and the engine stumbles like it doesn't want to take fuel then it needs retarded slightly.

My 400 is at that point around 1650-1700rpm with the current setup.
 
That small cam is set at .035 from the factory, even though it doesn't have the travel of a big cam I am surprised that it takes fuel at any rpm below 17-1800 at that setting.
I know nothing about Small Cams but maybe injector cam is made so that it doesn't start injection too early no matter how well injectors are filled ?
 
if you mash down on the pedal at a certain rpm and the engine stumbles like it doesn't want to take fuel then it needs retarded slightly.

My 400 is at that point around 1650-1700rpm with the current setup.

That's only way to know if it needs to be retarded or not. If it doesn't do that at the lowest rpm you need it to work, then don't retard it because it always hurts top end power. Boost, EMP and EGT will go up, power down.
 
Its been some time since this thread has been updated...

Nothing new for this pulling season, only had the truck out a handful of times this year. I bought a Freightliner FLC in February with the intentions of working it this summer. That plan fell through and I ended up pulling the FLC most of the season, being that it has an OD transmission and air ride suspension. The Kenworth did its usual thing. It can compete with a newer factory road truck but it can't keep up with anything that has had performance work done to it, even my FLC.

The best thing I did was buy a tire groover and regrooved the tires. I cut the treads about half an inch deep by 3/8" wide and I think it made a big difference.
 
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