DIY coolant by-pass?

Do i need to use hard pipe, or can I come off with rubber heater hose and then cut the heater hose and splice it in.

also is there a fitting to use that will blow open at a certain pressure to bypass it, i cant have it circulating all the time because then it will never get to operating temp.

my water pump has been clipped back to be less efficient at building pressure at high rpms, worked great at 4k, should still be fine at 4500. If i put the bolt in freeze plug in with a pipe plug i dont have to worry about it blowing out anymore, do you think the bypass is even necessary?
 
getblown5.9 said:
Do i need to use hard pipe, or can I come off with rubber heater hose and then cut the heater hose and splice it in.

also is there a fitting to use that will blow open at a certain pressure to bypass it, i cant have it circulating all the time because then it will never get to operating temp.

my water pump has been clipped back to be less efficient at building pressure at high rpms, worked great at 4k, should still be fine at 4500. If i put the bolt in freeze plug in with a pipe plug i dont have to worry about it blowing out anymore, do you think the bypass is even necessary?
Click to expand...

$.02
If its clipped im sure it helped A lot

I have a piece of hard pipe as a "T" in my top rad. hose
Its not here ill see if i can get you a picture later
 
I wonder if you could just use a manual on/off valve in place of the fitting that will blow open under pressure? When you're not pulling just close the valve, but right before you go out there to pull just crack it open a lil bit. That way it will let you get to operating temp before you pull. That would probably be the cheapest route.
 
I spec'd and built 3 systems myself and have one of them installed on my truck and the other two are on '06s (both turning 4000 rpm). Including the valve, fittings, and lines I had $300 in all three ($100/set). The valves are designed for high volume pressurized water flow, meet the required temperature range, flow 9 gal/min at 50 psi inlet pressure, remain drip-resistant sealed to 32 psi (opening pressure) with stainless steel seats, are quite compact, and made in the USA. That price includes SS braided lines and Earl's fittings by the way, and I think it looks a lot better than other systems. Shoot me a PM and I can give you info for everything.
 
At what rpm does one need to clip the water pump or use the freeze plug eliminator kit? Also when clipping the pump, how many fins need to be clipped and how far down?(half way down, ect)

Jordan
 
Heres a pic of my pressure regulator. You can buy one at any hardware store, just tell them a pressure regulator valve from a boiler. Hose goes from the plate on the back of the head sraight to here, then dumps into the upper radiator hose. I can get more pics if you need them TJ.

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Here's one from the front. I took some others but it's to see the valve from the front with my external gate in the way. IMO that's the beauty of it... nothing to clutter up the engine. I had to remove the valve cover and rocker box to install it, but everything else stayed in place. I drained a little coolant from the radiator, removed the top hose, and drilled & tapped the elbow in plavce with a towel shoved up inside.

Relief2.jpg
 
What about coming out of one of the plugs in the head on the exhaust side? Straight to the thermostat housing? I'm wanting a bypass as well, but when the thermostat opens won't that relieve some pressure? I thought radiator caps were only rated at like 18-20 psi.
 
That's what my setup above does. The therostat can't flow enough to relieve the pressure at high rpms, so this helps it along. The pressure in the engine side of the water pump can be a lot higher than on the radiator side.
 
So you can come out of one of the tapped holes in the head instead of the rear freeze plug ?

What kind of valve did you use ?
 
So with the valve/regulator...whatever....what kind of pressure is it set to open at ?
I see a handfull of 1/2 NPT fittings, a couple feet of braided line...and a valve.
I'm going shopping this weekend....would love to know what options are out there for valves though.

I'm definitely tapping the t-stat housing though....that looks super clan.
 
UNBROKEN said:
So with the valve/regulator...whatever....what kind of pressure is it set to open at ?
I see a handfull of 1/2 NPT fittings, a couple feet of braided line...and a valve.
I'm going shopping this weekend....would love to know what options are out there for valves though.

I'm definitely tapping the t-stat housing though....that looks super clan.
Click to expand...

hey man, i'm very serious. a pop-off valve (found on twins sets) set to 30 psi, setup like the pictures above would be spot on!
 
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