DIY coolant by-pass?

Homewrecker, I came out of the back threaded freeze plug on the exhast side of the head... looks to be the same as the one you posted the picture of. I tapped the t-stat elbow by drilling it and tapping it on the truck. I just pulled off the upper radiator hose, shoved in a stack of towels with a zip tie attached, drilled and tapped, and then pulled the rag out with all the shavings.

Lloyd is right, the valve needs to be rated for hot water, not just steam or air. Finding a valve rated for many cycles without leaking is the challenge.

I've returned a lot of PMs with, so if you're interested just send me a note.

John
 
UNBROKEN said:
From what I can gather...30psi is the most common. Still trying to figure out if that's 100% accurate though.

50 seems like a lot though.........
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I checked the pressure in the head it is about 80 psi sitting in the shop at 3000 rpm I would imagine at wide open, making heat it would be more, it makes 30 psi a soon as you touch the fuel which would pop the valve all the time just driving around.These were some quick tests and have never really put much time into testing a bypass so not real sure.
 
Interesting.

I'm far from figuring this out...other than knowing how and where to route the hoses. The valve is still an unknown.
I highly doubt Opie or anyone else selling a kit is gonna tell me either LOL...just gotta keep asking till someone knows for sure...and can answer WHY they know.
 
I would keep it above or at 50 or it will pop all the time when your driving around,the only time you need it to open is when your WOT and making heat.
 
I found some really simple brass valves for under 20 bucks.
Made for water, good temp range...one set at 50 one set at 75.

If you're seeing 80 in your shop with no load...maybe 75psi is better ?

Just thinking out loud............
 
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I would say 75 would work to.Probally the best way is to put a gauge on and drive it down the road and see what the pressure is at 2800 or so rpm and put a pop off at that psi or there about.I just used a 100psi gauge and a 1/4 in npt fitting in the little plug in the front of the head with a couple feet of 1/4 air line.
 
I don't see how you could be seeing 80psi? If thats the case, wouldn't radiator fluid just guzzle out the overflow at all times?
 
cummins724 said:
I don't see how you could be seeing 80psi? If thats the case, wouldn't radiator fluid just guzzle out the overflow at all times?
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Its pushing from the pump to the thermostat from the pump back it is low pressure side.I did not think it was that high till I put a gauge on and checked it either,I new it would be higher than the cap psi but not by that much.
 
banshee said:
Homewrecker, I came out of the back threaded freeze plug on the exhast side of the head... looks to be the same as the one you posted the picture of. I tapped the t-stat elbow by drilling it and tapping it on the truck. I just pulled off the upper radiator hose, shoved in a stack of towels with a zip tie attached, drilled and tapped, and then pulled the rag out with all the shavings.

John
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I was reffering to the upper radiator hose.Just trying to figure out how you adapted the fitting for the SS hose to the t-stat housing.That looks really good.I'm all about a little functional bling under the hood.
 
Drill at tap the t-stat housing with a 1/2" NPT tap...then just thread in the fitting of your choice.
 
I'm talking about here

Relief2-1.jpg



Don't you love my fancy photobucket editing!:rockwoot:
 
Exactly....it's a braided stainless hose cover kit...available at your local Auto Zone or Pep Boys.

Spend the extra few bucks and get the real stainless...the cheaper kits use aluminum braid and it'll be real dull after a month or so.
 
can you make a bypass and not use a valve? what woult it hurt it you ran a hose from the rear freeze plug to the heater core hose.....or top rad. hose? it would have to help cool the rear of the engine and drop the pressure a little? i dunno i may be way off!!! lol
 
dsl kicks gas said:
can you make a bypass and not use a valve? what woult it hurt it you ran a hose from the rear freeze plug to the heater core hose.....or top rad. hose? it would have to help cool the rear of the engine and drop the pressure a little? i dunno i may be way off!!! lol
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Choosing the size of the line would be critical if you did that. Having too much bypass would make the engine always run cool and would take for ever to reach operating temperature.
 
I am runnin two watts 530c both set at 50psi and one plumbed in the head and one in the rear frezze plug with 1/2 pushlocks 250psi hose and I took the stainless arch in the ppe dual fueler kit and had two weldlets welded to it for discharge
 
not enoughsmoke said:
I am runnin two watts 530c both set at 50psi and one plumbed in the head and one in the rear frezze plug with 1/2 pushlocks 250psi hose and I took the stainless arch in the ppe dual fueler kit and had two weldlets welded to it for discharge
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Any pics?
 
That's NOT a sleeve kit (Those are rice), but an Aeroquip -32 AN SS braided hose with a custom flange adapter. These hoses were originally designed for fuel transfer on H-53 helicopters The clamp you see in that picture is one of those hose clamps with a built in socket cover over it, so that end just clamps onto the elbow. You could weld a threaded fitting to the end of the elbow, but I chose to just use that clamp. Here is another picture of the hose section I built:

Pics010.jpg


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I have a couple more of these I could put together and sell, and with a little looking I could put together a kit to include everything. I made the adapter myself on a lathe out of 6061 aluminum. It's probably one of the more unique features under my hood.
 
That looks very nice, could you pm me a parts list for the bypass please. Thanks.
 
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