easy way of changing valve springs in truck?

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dieselmann97

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Mar 24, 2008
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ok people im changing out my 60lb springs to some nice hamilton bee-hive stage 1 springs and retainers/keepers. Whats the most easy way of changing them while in the truck?? I put the 60lb one in when i put a new head on so it was off the truck at the time. cyl 1 is at tdc & i have those pulled & valves resting on top to the piston. this may be a stupid question but whats the firing order or the next cylinders that are the closest to tdc that i can do right away before baring the motor over?? I have to pull the injectors to put my bigger ones in (thanks to lee at contagious diesel) i know i can get the tool to pressureize the cylinder for the next ones, but just trying to find the most easy way of doing this also what is recommended for valve clearance for adjusting them, intake & exh.. thanks, i lost all my info on this stuff & dont remember it as well, its been awhile :doh: :nail:
 
Never seen a 6 cylinder that didn't go 1-5-3-6-2-4, just something for you to remember. When 1 is tdc compression stroke, 6 is tdc exhaust. When 2 is tdc compression, 5 is tdc exhaust. When 3 is tdc compression, 4 is tdc exhaust. Hope that helps
 
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If the two cylinders add up to "7", you've got a companion set.

1+6=7
2+5=7
3+4=7
 
Very easy to just begin compressing the spring which will allow the valve to travel up and down freely but not release given the retainer will still be in place. As you rotate the motor by hand you will see the piston push the valve up. Continue rotating until the valve is as high as it will go before starting to go back down as the piston heads back down the bore. From there you should know what you're doing if you've changed them off the head. I would assume you know about the plugs for the pushrods to come up and out under the cowl.
 
We don't use air.. The piston at TDC will hold the valves if you have the injectors out use a welding rod in the injector hole to tell is at TDC.

Do it in pairs 1-6 then 2-5 last 3-4.. We use a Craftsman 41384 spring compressor for 12v.

Hope that helps!
 
I've done two sets of springs now with the head still in the truck. Lets just say after swapping a set, I'm wore out for the rest of the day! If I was a shop, I think I'd charge at least $300 labor to do a swap, such a pain in the butt to work on #6.
 
??
You still have to work under the cab on #6 and install more locks at one time. No tool has nothing to do with that.
 
what do I know? Ive done dozens of sets on the engine in 24V's and I think its easy....
 
CSnyder said:
what do I know? Ive done dozens of sets on the engine in 24V's and I think its easy....
Click to expand...

That's probably why you have a successful shop vs. me who will never own a shop because I'd charge too much for valve spring swaps!!!


I think Olee Poole still runs a successful shop so he probably knows what he's doing as well.
 
Big Blue24 said:
That's probably why you have a successful shop vs. me who will never own a shop because I'd charge too much for valve spring swaps!!!


I think Olee Poole still runs a successful shop so he probably knows what he's doing as well.
Click to expand...

Yes sir I have been Bless with work!
 
Easy way to remember firing order:
15 is to young, 36 is to old, 24 is just right.

I agree a spring compressor makes it much easier.
 
I'm guessing Olee has never seen that tool? Makes it a cake walk to swap springs on a 24 valve..
 
I sure am glad I don't have to deal with#5 and 6 and the cowl, I have almost 6 inches between my engine and firewall, i do need to look at springs soon tho and will most likely get that tool, its too cool not to have!
 
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