easy way of changing valve springs in truck?

Lucky Jeff said:
I'm guessing Olee has never seen that tool? Makes it a cake walk to swap springs on a 24 valve..
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Even with the tool, you still have to fiddle with removing and re-installing the small (easy to drop) locks on 4 valves instead of just 2.

I believe this is the point Olee was trying to make. I'm sure if he's still running a successful shop for over 5 years through this downturn in the economy, he knows what he's doing and I'm sure he's seen and used a 24 valve spring compressor tool.

The difficult part of swapping springs is working under the cowl on #5 and #6, handling little parts with fat fingers is the second largest challenge in doing the job.


And no, you may not use that phrase in your signature.... :doh:
 
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Lucky Jeff said:
I'm guessing Olee has never seen that tool? Makes it a cake walk to swap springs on a 24 valve..
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Yes sir I got a miller back in 2003.. That everyone copied to sale.

On a 24v you have 8 valve locks to deal with at once.. And under the cowl after 5&6 your home free!

Thanks Big Blue24.. After all this I hope the 12v guy gets he springs installed I was looking to help with my 1st post.. And now it's a 24v tool post?
 
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Olee Poole said:
Yes sir I got a miller back in 2003.. That everyone copied to sale.

On a 24v you have 8 valve locks to deal with at once.. And under the cowl after 5&6 your home free!
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I guess our ideas of what a tough job is, is pretty different.
 
Removing the locks isn't really a big deal. I use a flexible magnet, and move it around in a circular pattern until all the locks from one valve are stacked up on the magnet.

Re-installing the locks, and making sure they are seated is a little more work. I've found that the locks re-seat easier if you back the spring compressor off from full compression. (I use the source auto tool)
 
vaseline or other thick petroleum product helps a TON with getting the locks to stay where you want them till you release the compressor
 
Fyi, we have a tool like the source tool for the 12v. A full swap takes about 45 minutes start to stop. With so many people modifying their 12v's maybe people can bug somebody to make more of them. I am too busy to put something else on the plate at this time. If nobody does, I will have some more made in the next few months for a new loaner program.


Zach Hamilton
 
I wasn't trying to discourage people from swapping valve springs on their own truck, and true it's not really difficult, just a pain in the rear working in the limited space of #5 and #6. Just be sure to stuff towels around the pushrods so an accidentally dropped lock half doesn't go missing. I agree magnets are your friend on this task.
 
What are yall running for retainers/keepers? I heard the stockers will pull though with the added spring pressure.
 
Hamilton Cams said:
Fyi, we have a tool like the source tool for the 12v. A full swap takes about 45 minutes start to stop. With so many people modifying their 12v's maybe people can bug somebody to make more of them. I am too busy to put something else on the plate at this time. If nobody does, I will have some more made in the next few months for a new loaner program.


Zach Hamilton
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Could I get a picture? I think I might have one made up for me and a couple select persons.
 
24v version for ref:

springcompmounted.jpg
 
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Hamilton Cams said:
Fyi, we have a tool like the source tool for the 12v. A full swap takes about 45 minutes start to stop. With so many people modifying their 12v's maybe people can bug somebody to make more of them. I am too busy to put something else on the plate at this time. If nobody does, I will have some more made in the next few months for a new loaner program.


Zach Hamilton
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i would be intreted in buying one for 12valve
toms73novass said:
24v version for ref:

springcompmounted.jpg
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miller had their tool a long time before this source one cam out cuz i have a miller as well
 
15 is too young
36 is too old
24 is just right
And Im a young gun so that saying works out perfectly for me haha
 
NickTF said:
Very easy to just begin compressing the spring which will allow the valve to travel up and down freely but not release given the retainer will still be in place. As you rotate the motor by hand you will see the piston push the valve up. Continue rotating until the valve is as high as it will go before starting to go back down as the piston heads back down the bore. From there you should know what you're doing if you've changed them off the head. I would assume you know about the plugs for the pushrods to come up and out under the cowl.
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this is how i do it on 12vs, but i put a small magnet on top to catch the keepers when i pop them free.
 
gunracer1 said:
this is how i do it on 12vs, but i put a small magnet on top to catch the keepers when i pop them free.
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Ofcourse, everyone has little things they do to make things easier beyond what I typed. I also use a pen magnet usually with a small flat blade scew drive in addition to help work them loose.

Retaining and keeping from losing the keepers is not that hard. I suggest working on the easiest cylinder first, number 1, until you get used to it that way you are better at it by the time you get to the more confined number 6 cylinder.

Good luck
 
I put a jack under my tranny and let the mount go, then let the jack down some. Made a lot more room for #6
 
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