Engine Oil

I run valvoline racing 20w-50, and change it 5-6 passes also. It is a little cheaper and seems to hold up good on our 3.0 truck. But the cenpeaco and Brad Penn stuff is deffinetly worth looking into to. Are you really going to change it after every hook?

I guess Ill have to check it once I get it running. Ill change the oil in the pump every hook thats for darn sure.
 
If your pump drain is in the same spot as mine good luck. I would have to pull the pump to change it.
 
I run valvoline racing 20w-50, and change it 5-6 passes also. It is a little cheaper and seems to hold up good on our 3.0 truck. But the cenpeaco and Brad Penn stuff is deffinetly worth looking into to. Are you really going to change it after every hook?

My Schaeffers is cheaper than I can buy Rotella at NAPA! If anyone needs a # for a rep in your area shoot me a PM and Ill get it to ya.
 
I run sysnthetic in my pump and change it about every 8-10 hooks. You really dont need to change it that offten.
 
Mine has a plug that easily removable. It does not run off of engine oil. Takes its own seperate oil.

Mine has all of that but the easily removable part. Someone put the plug on the bottom of the governor assembly so when you mount the pump its on an angle facing the motor.
 
Brad Penn also just came out with a racing/ high performance diesel oil in a 15w-40 with extremely high sulfated ash and zinc content, specifically designed for high performance off-highway diesel applications... I don't see the need for the thick oil guys.. All that extra weight is just slowing the crank down. THICK OIL IS NOT BETTER.

I agree. Run the thinnest oil that you can and still keep your pressure where it needs to be. Some guys running blow thru applications on gas motors are running 0W-5W synthetic oils. I know that is a little different application but similar. Just my $.02

I have to jump in on this. Being an engine builder and a schaeffers user to set by and not respond would be wrong. You use the oil that is needed for the clearances in your engine. if your engine is clearanced to run 50W oil that is what you use. Most high performance engines built have been built with larger tolerances requiring the use of such oil. this is usually needed with the extra stress that is produced by pushing things to their limits. An engine being abused in a racing/pulling situation usually does better with the larger clearances and usually will last longer.:thankyou2:
 
I have to jump in on this. Being an engine builder and a schaeffers user to set by and not respond would be wrong. You use the oil that is needed for the clearances in your engine. if your engine is clearanced to run 50W oil that is what you use. Most high performance engines built have been built with larger tolerances requiring the use of such oil. this is usually needed with the extra stress that is produced by pushing things to their limits. An engine being abused in a racing/pulling situation usually does better with the larger clearances and usually will last longer.:thankyou2:

X2, you beat me to it. 2tone didnt ask about a street truck. Mine would probally start knocking if i ran anything less then 50w in it.
 
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Brad Penn also just came out with a racing/ high performance diesel oil in a 15w-40 with extremely high sulfated ash and zinc content, specifically designed for high performance off-highway diesel applications... I don't see the need for the thick oil guys.. All that extra weight is just slowing the crank down. THICK OIL IS NOT BETTER.

where is this available?
 
I have to jump in on this. Being an engine builder and a schaeffers user to set by and not respond would be wrong. You use the oil that is needed for the clearances in your engine. if your engine is clearanced to run 50W oil that is what you use. Most high performance engines built have been built with larger tolerances requiring the use of such oil. this is usually needed with the extra stress that is produced by pushing things to their limits. An engine being abused in a racing/pulling situation usually does better with the larger clearances and usually will last longer.:thankyou2:

Aha, i wanted to see how many biters i had. LOL Well that was going to be my next post. We all need to remember the point of having thick oil in a diesel.. Fuel dilution and larger clearances. Many of people just throw thick oil in and say, 'uh, wow my oil pressure went up.' This also means you are severely overwhelming the pump and the relief valve. If you are building an engine with larger than standard tolerances you need thick oil.. otherwise, the faster that oil can get back to the sump, the better.

where is this available?

Jim, PM me and i can get you contact info. and prices if that's what you want. They make a Tier III emissions CI, CJ-4 oil, a CH, CI-4 oil, and a CG, CH oil for high performance, heavy duty, and off road use.. prices are reasonable..
 
X2, you beat me to it. 2tone didnt ask about a street truck. Mine would probally start knocking if i ran anything less then 50w in it.

Aha, i wanted to see how many biters i had. LOL Well that was going to be my next post. We all need to remember the point of having thick oil in a diesel.. Fuel dilution and larger clearances. Many of people just throw thick oil in and say, 'uh, wow my oil pressure went up.' This also means you are severely overwhelming the pump and the relief valve. If you are building an engine with larger than standard tolerances you need thick oil.. otherwise, the faster that oil can get back to the sump, the better.



Jim, PM me and i can get you contact info. and prices if that's what you want. They make a Tier III emissions CI, CJ-4 oil, a CH, CI-4 oil, and a CG, CH oil for high performance, heavy duty, and off road use.. prices are reasonable..

I guess I just wanted to try to clairify for a few people that didn't know. It is definatly a commonly misunderstood thing about weights of oil and the need for the correct oil.

I am happily suprised with the number of schaeffers users. most of the time I get looked at funny when I mention the name. I have bearings from my 7yr old drag motor that had a factory rod give up on me (gasser) that look almost like the day I installed them.
 
I run sysnthetic in my pump and change it about every 8-10 hooks. You really dont need to change it that offten.

Well as little oil as it takes, and how expensive this pump was. I dont mind changing it every 2-3 hooks. I dont like taking any chances on these pumps. They are already being stretched to the limits. I dont have the money to get another one. Im broke....:bang
 
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