Exhaust Manifold Studs- ?

$

They do exist :rockwoot:

It took me a few weeks of searching but I found them in stainless steel
(#304) in M10-1.50 x 50MM and M10-1.50 x 60MM sizes

120,000 tensile strength........I have one of each size/length on order and they should be here by Wednesday

Yup that's what I use with the allen heads looks sweet! But they do come loose the first few thousand miles! I had to retighten 3 times then they stayed!
 
Lastly......does anyone know the specs on the two manifold flange studs on the exhaust manifold?

Two are usually studs (near the block) and two are usually bolts......just looking for specs on the two studs near the block

Thread size, pitch, length, etc
 
M10-1.5 x 45mm long. Same thing I, and many others, use for mounting the manifold to the head.
 
I found a really good, really nice small company that only deals in stainless steel fasteners.

Not knowing what length exhaust manifold studs I really needed, I ordered up a few in various lengths.......all in M10-1.50 threads

I also bought some stainless steel flange nuts and stainless steel washer....in M10-1.50 threads

The fully threaded stainless stud has a flush mounted/sunken allen head, which takes a 5MM Metric allen wrench

While the stainless parts are not cheap, you get what you pay for.....these are all very high quality and have a 120,000 tensile PSI

I also found my old/stock turbo flange mounting studs:


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Some baseline info:

The mounting flange on an ATS Pulse Flow exhaust manifold is approximately:
17.22 MM thick

The manifold gasket might be 1-2 MM thick......

Then, add approximately 10-12 MM for the flange nut or nut/washer combo.....

Lastly, add 25 MM for the thread depth into the head

53MM-55MM length stud is what I am leaning towards........does it work out?

READ ON!!!
 
Various stainless parts.........


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Time to measure:



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Fully threaded:

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That stock mounting hardware looks pretty bad up against a nice silver ceramic coated ATS Pulse Flow:

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One stock bolt removed:

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The spacer was adjusted back, to show how much thread is actually only into the head.......with the thickness of the ATS Pulse Flow:


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The main issue I found was that the center smoothed over portions of the stainless steel studs was too long

I used the full threaded stainless stud for the picture, and it was the stud that I am most pleased with:


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I installed another flange nut, to show the thickness of the ATS Pulse Flow and to show how much threads actually went into the head:


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With some high end anti-sieze on the threads going into the head and some blue loc-tite on the flange nut, I think it might just work!

The two smaller stainless 47MM studs would work also......but I would not be able to have as much thread seated down into the head
 
I am going to order a 55MM fully threaded stainless stud, with the allen head style end

The fully threadded ss stud I have now is 50MM and I think the extra 5MM will let my full sink the stud into the head, and will allow me to use a ss washer, ss lock washer, and the ss flange nut.......while still having 2-3MM worth of threads sticking out of the nut

Right now, with the pics, the threads are sunk all the way into the head but the threads are flush with the end of the flange nut, without a ss lock washer in there

I will make sure to use high end high temp anti-sieze on the threads going into the head
 
Nasty stock rusty exhaust manifold bolts:


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Nice new stainless:


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Just a quick mock up:


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I sold a "kit" to my friend about 2 weeks ago. He has ben running the stainless studs without any issues, and they are staying tight

He has a stock exhaust manifold and wanted to use the 50MM full threaded version
 
try this place, they have everything and anything including fasteners. Guarrantee anyone on here who hasnt seen this company will love em. They are an industrial supply company
mcmastercarr.com
 
I'm a pipefitter welder. I can't remember why but we are always asked to had three threads showing past the nut. Just something to keep in mind.
 
I know this thread is old but I'm wondering where you purchases these SS studs from???
 
I think long studs and long spacers (like the factory spacers) will hold better, allowing for more expansion and contraction due to heat cycling. I came just short of running 10's this summer because my stainless socket heads didn't hold and I lost two gaskets. I'm running the stock stuff in every location that will allow now. (cant run them in the middle two cylinders due to the 2nd gen Stainless Diesel manifold)

I didn't like the look of the rusty spacers so I bead blasted them and painted them with bbq or header paint.
 
I bought them from a small SS fastener business in Georgia

These have been on my truck for 3 years and are still tight, they have no loosened up at all
 
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