Final pull of the year, watch my clutch slip

south bend IG with full fermaic disc works good for me!
 
look's like the clutch slipped a long way do you get off the pedal really quick, or have to ride it out. i do believe we sent you a replacement today.
:rockwoot:
No i get off the clutch within 10 ft at the most i has slipped like this since i put it in but saturday nite was the fisrt it slipped at the end of the track. and yea i talked to kevin again today and thats what he said that he was sending me another clutch and i wana thank you again

Told you bud. They seem to be very good for backing up their clutches.
 
well i just talked to Peter and I'm gonna stick with the IG but going to the full iron discs with a fresh rebuild for next year. i was contemplating a switch to a weighted haisley clutch but with this crappy economy i have to go with the most economical solution at this point for myself. Thanks again SBC!
 
i made 18 other hooks this year, many of them on bad tracks (worse than this track) and its never done that. i've pulled on tracks that i could blow the tires off in my highest gear and its never done anything like that, or had no clutch pedal at the end of the track.

but i guess since you guys were driving the truck and were watching the tach and know how the clutch felt then i'll just leave it at that.

What does the clutch pedal feel have to do with the clutch engaging? If the clutch is engaging, its not "slipping". It may have other problems causing the pedal to feel weird or whatever, but it blew the tires off as soon as you came off the clutch, so if it was slipping, it wasnt enough to hurt your pull IMO. You know its possible to gain and lose traction going down the track causing the tach to go up and down.

No reason to get all worked up over someones opinions. :nail:
 
What does the clutch pedal feel have to do with the clutch engaging? If the clutch is engaging, its not "slipping". It may have other problems causing the pedal to feel weird or whatever, but it blew the tires off as soon as you came off the clutch, so if it was slipping, it wasnt enough to hurt your pull IMO. You know its possible to gain and lose traction going down the track causing the tach to go up and down.

No reason to get all worked up over someones opinions. :nail:

What caused it to stick at the end of the pull then??

Chris
 
Could have been a number of things. If something in the clutch is warped, then obviously its not gonna release good. Doesent mean it wont hold the power. The hydraulics could be weak. Lots of things could cause that.

Why were the tires spinning so fast the whole way down the track if it was slipping? Like I said, I didnt say the clutch didnt have problems(which might explain the hard to get out of gear, etc), I just said it sure looked like it hooked up hard and wasnt slipping.
 
Definately something else going on Eric. Rear tires were white smoking at the end of the track and no tire lost speed. Clutch or hydraulic problems, very likely. Slipping, don't think so. Sweet sounding truck, and smooth running for sure. I'd love to see it run & put that to the ground. Did you pull @ SDX this year? If you did I must've missed it. That's probably the closest venue that I'd be to see the truck. Just curious.
 
Definately something else going on Eric. Rear tires were white smoking at the end of the track and no tire lost speed. Clutch or hydraulic problems, very likely. Slipping, don't think so.

That is my thoughts on it also. It may have problems, i just dont think it is slipping.

I dont think he pulled at Scheid this year, but it is a strong running truck.

Eric
 
same problem i had with my 3850 when it was nearing the end of its life, when you come off the line at high rpms it does not want to engage fully, its spinning but it snot a positive lock-up. it would take awhile for it to fully lock up and stop slipping even after i was off the pedal. all the heat at the beginning of the run is what causes the soft pedal at the end. once it cools down the pedal feels good again, its just got some warping in it from the heat which makes the clutch drag now making it hard to get into gear.

i've talked with peter and he said he had some issues with some parts this year and he is willing to correct it. the problem he had is exactly what im seeing. especially the fact that its a non-weighted clutch that wants to start moving the truck on its own at high rpms with the clutch pushed it. it will be fixed for next year tho!
 
r u going to have it back together this year cause i was hoping to see u pull in maryland on the 24th
 
r u going to have it back together this year cause i was hoping to see u pull in maryland on the 24th

nope, done for the year. dont feel like tryin to rip the clutch out and get it back together in just 2 weeks. it has some other things that need to be fixed. im hanging it up for the year to do some hunting.

ive got so much stuff to get done thats been sitting and getting pushed back due to pulling that its time to catch up. LOL
 
Is it very expensive to get a southbend dual disk rebuilt? I am thinking about sending mine in when I pull my nv4500 for its rebuild
 
Generally a 3850 ceramic button SBC dual disk cost's $750 to rebuild BUT you get a new pressure plate where most places put new in lays, pucks, and refurbish your pressure plate. Had a friend who had his SBC rebuilt by "Kentucky Clutch" this year because it was cheaper there than SBC. Half the amount of pulls and its slipping.


Nobody can actually tell you what its going to cost except Peter tho! ;) Give him a call Monday, I am to see about getting mine redone with Sintered Iron disks for next year.
 
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