Free Spin Hub Question

TB1 said:
No it's not a true direct bolt on the ford spindles are 5 bolt pattern, they will need to be re drilled to the dodge 4 bolt pattern. Then it would be just bolt on. Wrecker for the ford parts. Everything else from a parts store. Here is a link 4WD Factory about the only thing they do not sell new is the Ford bearing hub.
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i beleive they put on the ford knuckle as well
 
I take it on all these conversions don't allow the use of the speed sensor/abs???

I love the idea of using the ford knuckle and assembly though! especially for a devoted puller!
 
RyanB said:
I take it on all these conversions don't allow the use of the speed sensor/abs???

I love the idea of using the ford knuckle and assembly though! especially for a devoted puller!
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The home/Ford conversions don't. I believe that there are provisions for ABS on some of the kits you can buy though.
 
RyanB said:
I take it on all these conversions don't allow the use of the speed sensor/abs???

I love the idea of using the ford knuckle and assembly though! especially for a devoted puller!
Click to expand...

mondtster said:
The home/Ford conversions don't. I believe that there are provisions for ABS on some of the kits you can buy though.
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Unfortunately not for anything older than 99 that I've seen. They don't seemed to be too concerned with older trucks :bang Bummer deal too, that was a deal breaker for me
 
I plan to start the search for a ford d60/50 axle soon to gather up what I need. Have a few questions though:

1. Money is tight right now so if it's an option can the lock out hub from the ford be used until money is available for the warn premium hub options?
2. Will the hub fit the wheel I have now which is sized for the dodge hub?
3. Does anyone know the exact dimensions of the dodge spindle 4 bolt pattern so I can take the ford spindle to a machine shop to have it drilled out? (ford knuckle swap looks to need an alignment to go with it due to knuckle appearing to stick out further so I'd rather just modify the ford spindle)
4. Does a different brake rotor still need to be used if i do what I have planned? If so I take it the 79 year brake rotor is the way to go to keep the stock brake calipers correct?

Thanks again this is a great thread!
 
what about putting the spindle on the knuckle and drilling 5 holes in the dodge knuckle?
 
yeah the whole using the ford knuckle part would fix it you'd think.....

somebody made a boo boo somewhere
 
rileydsking said:
what about putting the spindle on the knuckle and drilling 5 holes in the dodge knuckle?
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Anyone have any input on this? Again i'm a dumby.

The idea of extending the tires out farther which appears to be associated with using the ford knuckles isn't really appealing to me or the possibility to have to get an alignment again because of having to adjust the tie rod(s).
 
Okay I'm working through this now.

Parts from a ball joint style Dana 50 (F250) will work. Except the outer stub shafts from a Dana 60 (F350) will be needed. It might be easier just to source all the parts from a wrecker for a Dana 60. I'm running into a problem trying to find the stub axles in Canada or a parts guy that can understand what a outer stub shaft is..... they are all the same from 1988-1999 11.4" long 30 spline Ford F 350. The stock ford lock out hubs can be used as well with only one problem the little sticker that says Ford will need to be removed before they go on my truck. Brake rotors from a 1979 Ford F250-350 are the same and will allow the dodge calipers to line up as stock. As for the bolt pattern not sure I was going to install the spindle on the dodge knuckle drill out one hole first and mark the rest out and drill them in my drill press. The wheels will fit over the either set of hubs dodge or ford.
 
It would be far easier to drill out the spindle as apposed to drilling and tapping the dodge knuckle. The locking hub assembly is going to stick out further than stock there is no way around it. But look at any Ford,Chevy,Dodge truck until the early 90's there not that bad and a bigger set of tires hides them more as well
 
you dont have to tap the knuckle. some older 44'sand 60's had bolts and nuts holding the spindle on. a allen head bolt with the nut on the spindle side would work well.

you can keep the stock alingment with the dodge knuckles, but the front track width will be wider because the wheel mounting flange is in a different location with the ford hubs. thats why the need for different rotors also.
 
I was going to try the kunckles and everything off of a dana 50 then buy the 1480 stub shafts from spicer. Cause i believe the 50 has 1350 u joints. Has anybody tried this on a 3500, I'm hopeing the dually wheel adapter will clear the lockout hub. I just had a dana 50 gave to me and i just replace a wheel bearing for the price of 250.00 which sucks
 
You will have to get a Ford DRW front hub, its all one piece.

Drilling out the spindle would be easier and makes more sense to me. The top holes in the dodge knuckle are half a hole out from the middle 2 bolt hols in the Ford spindle, so they just have to be oblonged with a die grinder or similar. The bottom holes in the knuckle don't line up with the Ford spindle holes, so those will have to be drilled. If I remember right, the spindle from my EMS kits had 7 holes in it, 2 being oblong. It would still bolt to either Ford or Dodge knuckles.
 
I was thinking if i remember right from reading on one of these kits that you would have to clearence the dually adapter to get them to work right. I might just give it a shot as all i will be out is some stub shafts
 
I have been following this thread and have two 3/4 ton trucks I would like to do this to. Figuring up the prices I have seen for the hubs, spindles, outer shafts and lockout hubs, I think it would be just as cheap to buy a kit from EMS, Dlux or Ballistic. It would be a miracle to come across a cheap F350 ball joint axle, unless the owner does not know what he has. If the D50 ball joint axle parts can be used, except the outer shafts, that may be the only cheap way. Let me know what kind of money you are thinking you will have in the Ford D50/60 parts.
 
all ford dana 60's around here are bringing a nice coin right now 750.00 and up. I will try the 50 and see if it works. I got a dana 60 out of a 99 dodge 2500 laying around i might do a test fit on it to see if it works cause i dont know when i will have time to do actually do it on my dually
 
the last time i heard in mass ford front axles were going anywhere from 400-800. depending on the condition
 
jedeka said:
I have been following this thread and have two 3/4 ton trucks I would like to do this to. Figuring up the prices I have seen for the hubs, spindles, outer shafts and lockout hubs, I think it would be just as cheap to buy a kit from EMS, Dlux or Ballistic. It would be a miracle to come across a cheap F350 ball joint axle, unless the owner does not know what he has. If the D50 ball joint axle parts can be used, except the outer shafts, that may be the only cheap way. Let me know what kind of money you are thinking you will have in the Ford D50/60 parts.
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Yeah, if you buy everything new I agree. The biggest key though is the "kits" won't sell everything separate or I don't think they will i.e. they won't sell you the kit for the driver side only or visa versa.
 
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