Fueling Problem...VP?

natfrost33 said:
I agree with pulling the box out even though it is a pain in the ass. Also i would really think about getting the injectors pop off tested. That is the only thing i can think of right now. Let me do some more thinking on this, and i will get back with you.:bang
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Thanks. Get back to me with a SOLUTION will ya?LOL

Here's my latest info.....

:doh: Well, SH.....T! For one, the 'bench test' failed. I can't get the resistance to change or the voltage to change no matter how I test it. I hooked the stupid thing, the new one, to an airhose with a 0-30 psi gauge on it. Then I boosted the air pressure up to 5...10...15...20...25...30...NOTHING! I tried reading resistance changes and then put +5vdc across it and still no change when reading voltage. This is some piece of work I tell you. The connector is not really great at telling you which pin is which, but I went by the factory wiring harness. Vout comes from the middle pin. The new sensor acts just like the old one did. I hope they taket this freakin' $71 sensor back! :bang

Chapter 2.
After cussing a few times, a couple cigarettes, and more cussing I thought, wiss on this stupid thing...I'll test it in the truck. So, I put wire taps on the GND and the Vout wires and ran a wire into my cab. Then I drove down the road with my DMM on my console reading the stupid thing. As soon as I started the truck, I got a Service Engine Light. I got to the highway and it ran PERFECT!!!! No skips, no misses, just plain straight boost from 0-40 psi. I got 6 miles to the filling station, pumped her full of diesel, and pulled the extra wires out of the wire taps. It ran perfect all the way back home! :rockwoot: WTF?

Chapter 3
I start her up this morning and it jumps and bucks again.:doh: The Service Engine Light is gone but it runs like crap. I hooked the DMM back to the wire taps after a few miles and voltage from the MAP sensor is fine. It reads 1.045 at idle and maxes out at 2.33 vdc at about 18 PSI and holds at this voltage for any boost above 20.

Conclusion.
I don't know what the heck is going on, but I do know it is related to the MAP sensor or circuitry somehow. That was the ONLY thing I messed with last night and it fixed it...for the first test drive. The motor was hot then and it is hot right now. I drive 30 minutes to work and it failed the whole trip. I am beginning to think it is a termination problem in the connectors on the Edge wiring harness. I had to pull on the wires pretty hard to get the wire taps on them and maybe I got a wire to connect to the pins again. I'm thinking they crimped some insulation in the pin or something causing it to be discontinuous some of the time. I will inspect that later tonight when I get home.

Ya, maybe having an EE on the team is good an all, but it is 4th and 8 and I'm going to punt! How in the heck can a stupid thing with THREE wires be so complicated that I can't test it on the bench? The PCM must modulate the signal or some funky shiznit. I can't figure it out.

Basically, this sums up my whole evening and morning......
:doh: :rockwoot: :doh:
 
Timbeaux38 said:
You check the cam sensor?
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Nope. Not familiar. I'm thinking about seeing if the dodge house next door can put a scanner on it and log all the engine functions on a test drive. Would that work? I'm not throwing any engine codes...or at least any that show up on the odometer with the key on-off trick.
 
when my cam sensor went out, the truck did all kinds of wony stuff.. I'll PM you my #
 
Yesterday I replaced the IAT sensor and unplugged/replugged the MAP sensor connections a couple of times to make sure it had a good connection. On the way home from work today I played with it some and my bucking problem is gone, matter of fact the truck runs smoother than it has in a while. Might not be a bad idea to pick up a new IAT sensor from Napa and try it, under $40 and worth trying.
 
blackandstacked said:
Go to bluechipdiesel.com and read the vp44 info on their site might help
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I read the article, good reading. Thanks for posting it.

I unplugged/plugged the MAP again and this morning then I had a "check engine" light but it ran fine. I guess it just has to have that dang light on?!?!? :bang

I think Edge needs to hook us up with some serious advanced trouble shooting as many of us that there is having the same problem and all with Edge products installed. They seem to be the common denominator here whether it is the boards or the wiring harness.
 
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You are prolly throwing an overboost code with the Map unplugged... It should be okay
 
Timbeaux38 said:
You are prolly throwing an overboost code with the Map unplugged... It should be okay
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Ya...but I plugged it in before the engine was started! That is the problem. I think it may be in the wires. Seems like everytime I unplug/plug something else happens. I ohmed out the wire harness from the edge pigtails to the juice box connector and wiggled them and it didn't have any problems. Maybe it is the factory wire harness that has a short or open. I'll look into that.

Since you mentioned a blue chip and VA box stack, how much would that cost if I can Edge to refund this P.O.S.? What set up would you recommend?
 
I'm happy with my setup, a TST also stacks well with timing boxes. you can get a used FMS for 5-600. (they are about a grand new) a TST is about the same price as a comp IIRC. You can find a used VA for 200 or so
 
Here is an update on my truck in case anyone else has any ideas.

I got a brand new Edge Juice/Attitude and replaced both the module and the controller with the new ones. The new ones were both manufactured in Feb of 07 so they are a year newer than the last ones. This didn't fix my problem. Then, I got a new AIT sensor and that helped a little bit but not complelety. When the outside temp is at or above 70F, the truck runs great. If it is 55F or below, it runs like crap. I still haven't exchanged the wiring harness like Edge wants me to, but I guess I'll have to break down and do it.

What the heck could it be? Any new solutions to try? :bang I still have a miss off and on in the 20 to 30 psi range.
 
Well here's a little update with my comp box. I was on the way home friday and it started to cut out when rolling into the throttle just like it has been doing. SO I decided to cut the comp off while it was cutting out and it sure enough as soon as I cut the box off the cutting out stopped. Next I tried it with the box off completely while rolling into the throttle and the truck ran fine! I'm send my box off to edge in the next week or so. What kind of turn around time to they have?
 
Dave,

That is exactly what my Juice does. I can turn it off during or before and the truck runs fine. They are pretty quick about things....faster than I am about swapping the dang harness that is for sure. I'll PM you my contact. He has been the one to deal with that has provided more service than any other. He'll tell you what to do. Don't forget the other thread. You might mention to them that a whole group of folks are having the same issues.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7117

I guess that I am the lucky one with the only Juice that is acting up. I'm going to try to go down the Industrial Injection avenue next and see if they can help me any more. I've exhausted every dang-blasted thing in this truck short of buying a new IP. What the hell do I do next? I'm frustrated....guess I can only drive it when it is 70F or better.
 
by any chance have you had someone reflash your stock ECM with a smarty just to see if there could be some stupid glitch in the programming?

how do you know its not the ECM messing things up ever when its getting the proper signals from the sensors/harness
 
getblown5.9 said:
by any chance have you had someone reflash your stock ECM with a smarty just to see if there could be some stupid glitch in the programming?

how do you know its not the ECM messing things up ever when its getting the proper signals from the sensors/harness
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You know, I've heard of flashing the ECM with better programs, but I don't think there is anyone around here that has the knowledge or experience to do it...that I know of. I'm sure one of you "diesel junkies" that know the trucks inside and out could do it in a minute or two, but their just isn't any diesel performace places around here that I would trust to do it. I've never heard of anyone with a smarty around here either. I'm sure Dodge next door would love to reflash my ECM for a pretty penny, and they'd love to spend a day of labor on my truck, but I don't trust the any farther than I can throw them. And I'm sure they will say, it runs fine on stock...which it does. I wish someone like Garmon or of the same caliber would open a place around here. I'd trust someone that "knows their stuff", but I don't know of any racers/pullers in this area that could help me "tune" my truck.

My buddy in Indiana says he got a "slightly modified" ECM flash for his truck (not a smarty program) and it runs like a banshe...but I don't know the specifics or how one gets a hold of such a program. I'd really like to hook this thing to a data logger on a dyno and monitor all the inputs when it goofs up and really see what is going on. I have only tested one at a time. It pukes in the morning when it is cool and in the afternoon it runs great. :bang

I would love nothing more than to drive across the country and meet some of the exceptional folks on here and spend a few hours with them tuning my truck and getting their opinion on my setup....but that is a several day vaction that I just can't fit in right now.

Anyone know of anybody in this area that I can trust to work on my truck?
 
post up on the forums looking for a member in your area with a smarty...they can throw the smarty software in ECM, then return it to stock. when it goes back to stock it will be a NEW and 100% correct software. if there is a glitch in your ecm now, this will fix it. not bad for 4 minutes worth of work and it doesnt cost a dime.

if you know someone at the dealer, they can hook you truck to the computer and reflash it with the latest and greatest software. some dealers do it free, others may want to charge an hours labor for their tech to do it. go talk to them, tell them your problem and they may just help you out. it takes them literally less than 5 minutes to plug it in and reflash it.

this is no high performance reflash...just erase and reformat the ecm kinda like starting fresh with a new hard drive in a computer after you have a virus.

heck you might even be able to talk to bob wagner and he will mail you a smarty to borrow, test it for a day then mail it back to him. he has done this for other folks who wanna test drive the smarty, tell him whats up and he may help you out too.
 
Thanks GB. You da man. I'll look into those options. I think my truck has a case of the herpa-gonna-shiffle-aids or something.
 
Remember this thread? I know, it won't go away....just like my problem!

Do any of you think that if I had II swap my 14 cm exhaust housing for a 12 cm that it would fix the problem? Maybe it really is a turbo surging problem and I don't have enough heat/exhaust to keep it spooled at these problem psi's. Anythoughts on that?
 
Anything is possible Jory, have you called and talked to II to get their opinion on it??
 
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