Gearing

zstroken said:
Detroits will lock and unlock going down the track, as well as any of the clutched setups. Either ARB, or weld it.
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WHAT? Explain this too me? I have never heard of this. As long as there is a load on them they wont unlock.
 
bh10 said:
WHAT? Explain this too me? I have never heard of this. As long as there is a load on them they wont unlock.
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The street tires dig and release going down the track, it has been proven on a data logger. So as the tires release the locker can unlock slightly.
 
zstroken said:
The street tires dig and release going down the track, it has been proven on a data logger. So as the tires release the locker can unlock slightly.
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Yes, this doe's happen! When ya put a detroit in they have some slop in all the teeth and whatnot that make up the internals. When your tires hook and unhook... that slop can let the detroit unlock for a second, then when the teeth lock back up it's a bad shock load on that axle!

I don't have any experince with the ARB... but seems to be an expencive welded diff. IMO. With a welded front...all ya have to do is unlock the tranfer and the CAD will act like a lock out... and then ya can turn!?!?!?

ARB-maybe 700$ welded-maybe 5.00$... Can't see it!!!
 
I have no issue welding a diff, but most of the people on here street the truck, and the 02+ dodge trucks you can't weld the diffs, I will strongly discourage running a welded diff in the rear on a street truck. It was terrible, most turns were 3 point turns etc etc.

ARB's are very strong and yes they are expensive, but it allows some good options. The CAD systems on some of the trucks are problematic. My own CAD system will hang in the disengaged position, and requires me to do a slight dissassembly, so I just disconnected the disengage line, it will work it self clear if you put around in 2 HI, but for the most part it stays together.
 
zstroken said:
I have no issue welding a diff, but most of the people on here street the truck, and the 02+ dodge trucks you can't weld the diffs, I will strongly discourage running a welded diff in the rear on a street truck. It was terrible, most turns were 3 point turns etc etc.

ARB's are very strong and yes they are expensive, but it allows some good options. The CAD systems on some of the trucks are problematic. My own CAD system will hang in the disengaged position, and requires me to do a slight dissassembly, so I just disconnected the disengage line, it will work it self clear if you put around in 2 HI, but for the most part it stays together.
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Why can't ya weld the 02 and up dodge's???
 
No I dont think so mine is a late 02 with a 60 up front with no cad and my buddies is a early 02 and he has the cad that is what we noticed cause I had bought his old carrier and was going to weld it and saw that mine did not have the cad and so now I have a carrier to get rid of.
 
So thies trucks don't disconect one axle...at all? The hole axle turns all the time...is that right???
 
brushpuller said:
So thies trucks don't disconect one axle...at all? The hole axle turns all the time...is that right???
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More importantly the whole carrier turns. The CAD lets you get away with not making the carrier spin, and it also allows the front driveshaft to not spin.
 
With the CAD I would be able to weld the front carrier and be alright on the street?
 
Roy 31 said:
With the CAD I would be able to weld the front carrier and be alright on the street?
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Yes, you would just be spinning the front drive shaft anytime the drivers side wheel is spinning.
 
Great, that would save me some green backs! Since I dont know what the hell I'm welding, anybody have any pics on what should be done?
 
Weld the side gears ( the ones that drive the axle shafts) to the carrier. then weld the smaller spider gears to the side gears. Clean the carrier and gears very well..NO OIL on them when you weld them!!!
 
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