Getting ready for 4K rpm

1911 guy

1911 guy

Trunk Monkey
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
131
Ive got the springs and push rods to do it. But was wondering if there is anything else i need to take into consideration before cranking er up there.
Is the stock bottom end good to go with this (reliably)? Thanks for the input.
 
The realization that you'll never make any real power at 4000rpm.








It sure sounds nice spinning tires tho at 4000.
 
Stock bottom end is good to go at 4k from what I understand. What kind of tune are u gonna run to make u want to turn 4k?
 
JasonCzerak said:
The realization that you'll never make any real power at 4000rpm.








It sure sounds nice spinning tires tho at 4000.
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So no real power gains by spinning above 3400? I assume TNT R Is not full fueling out to 4K?
 
1911 guy said:
So no real power gains by spinning above 3400? I assume TNT R Is not full fueling out to 4K?
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Depends on the truck. Ecu in this case.

The problem is injector capasitor capasity as I understand to maintain the duration needed at high rpm.

For sled pulling, i hear it works well to get moving.
 
I think a fluidampr with pin kit is recommended for over 3500 rpm...

Here's my first attempt at a tractor pull. Left the line at about 3200, bogged a little, and then went straight to 4,000 and stayed there all the way down the track. I was surpised at how smooth it sounded!

Helix 2 and springs, TNT-R 9, TST 2/0, SPS66



--Eric
 
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JasonCzerak said:
The realization that you'll never make any real power at 4000rpm.








It sure sounds nice spinning tires tho at 4000.
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I was told the same thing, but my truck held 480hp at 4k. Every truck is different, it is all about your setup.
 
cummins724 said:
I was told the same thing, but my truck held 480hp at 4k. Every truck is different, it is all about your setup.
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And when did you get a common rail? :)

There's power there, but it's drastically less. There's a good reason CR's never turn more then 3600rpm (give or take a few) at the drag strip. It's not lack of power potential. it's lack of power at that rpm .

my EGT's and boost DROP at WOT once I get near 3600 on the highway in 6th. ;-)
 
Will kicking the TST up help fuel more at the top end when the Smarty drops off?
 
I don't think so. I had a TST, but it didn't like my truck anymore with the new revo stuff.
 
I haven't turned mine on yet since Going to the Smarty, Just using the turbo timer right now. What year is your truck Jason?
 
Don't need Fluidamper or Water Injection have no idea why you would need water injection for 4000RPM? I've turned my truck to over 4000RPM's alot with neither of those mods. Coolant bypass is a good idea though save your freeze plugs.
 
Will kicking the TST up help fuel more at the top end when the Smarty drops off?
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Assuming you're letting Smarty do the timing and not TST, all the TST does is fatten up whatever duration is being called for. With that in mind, i'm not sure how it couldn't help.

Smarty/TST/MP-8 combo works great on my truck. I run either Smarty TNT-R 5,7,or 9 and TST on 1/0, 2/0, or 3/0. Pressure when needed.

--Eric
 
f-1 or hamilton springs, fluidampner with drill pin kit, tnt r, mp-8 and tst, i have lost two stock dampners to high rpm, i think its the gear shifting that kills them,and billet bolt in freeze pluggs, i used to clip pumps but was always changing them because they would leak after a few months.DSC00387.jpg too many rpm with stock valve springs
 
Kman9090 said:
Don't need Fluidamper or Water Injection have no idea why you would need water injection for 4000RPM? I've turned my truck to over 4000RPM's alot with neither of those mods. Coolant bypass is a good idea though save your freeze plugs.
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Good for you.. It's extra protection. Going at it without a condom... Doesn't mean it's a good idea just because you haven't caught the "ahhh! razor blades" yet.
 
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