Head Gasket lets go...for the third time

OK I guess I need to ask more questions now. Thanks, it is VERY hard to get a shop that can do it right.
 
Update, my mechanic was able to get the injectors out and the head off. What he found was the studs were all bottomed out in the block. I do know that they are not supposed to be like that. That and the fact that only the front of the head was leaking oil and water from the passages and all the cylinders were still sealed leads me to believe that was what made the head gasket leak water and oil. Can anyone tell me the torque setting or sequence like 20-40-60, etc. up to what setting on the last sequence for the head studs? The head looks good and is going to the machine shop. Also, does the head gasket get any RTV or sealant in any special areas for a studded twinned turbo and CP3 5.9?
 
It is okay for the studs to be bottomed out in the block, that is why they have a allen socket in the center of them. I usually torque them to 30-60-90 then finish off around 115-120. Make sure he torques each level twice or three times. NO sealant on the gasket at all.

malcolm
 
Which time when the hg blew was it o ringed? And have you had machine shop resurface the head each time, cause that will obviously change your depth of your o ring groove! And tell me how he knew for sure they were bottomed out? Did he measure each one then measure the depth of the hole? Sounds a little shady to me...

If you have the head resurfaced then the o ring job has to be done again or checked over...
 
I was told run them down and then back them off 1/4 turn, after all everything expands and contracts so it made sense to me. And as stated make sure the head and block are flat or I dont care what kind of studs, o-rings, or gasket you are using you will blow it again. Good luck.
 
You have had alot of good advice on this thread and it dosen't appear that you were listening. Do us a favor and change mechanics. It dosen't appear this guy knows what he is doing.

I personally am getting tired of watching this TRAIN WRECK happen. This headgasket is
going to blow again.
 
Agreed on a new mechanic..

Wished I was close. I loved to help ya and save ya some coin.
 
Ok, I have a different mechanic. The original job was done by TRE, that blew on my way to Kansas towing because the upper CP3 let go and I think everything got hot because of lack of a steady supply of fuel.

Took it to a local shop here in KS and I was told he could work on this stuff, after having the head gasket done and the dual CP3 setup redone and a new fuel pump, etc. He assured me that the retorque was done. Fast forward a year and it blew coolant and water out from the front of the head.

Here is what the current mechanic found. The injector orings were not lubed when installed by the last shop making them almost impossible to remove from the head, he also broke a number of tools taking apart the head, everything was way too tight. After removing the head he found the o rings were good and they kept the cylinders sealed. The last shop also did not reinstall a thermostat which likely lead to overheating in the extreme hot weather here recently when I was towing and he also broke two different allen head wrenches getting the studs out which I would assume would lead anyone to think they were severely bottomed out and also nothing was torqued to spec so it was likely put together with air tools and no attention to detail was done when reassembling. If they had this little attention to detail then it is likely that they never did a retorque in the first place.

The mechanic I am having do this is an experienced diesel mechanic that is going by the book with the advice from Tim at TRE so I think things should be good. I hate to bother Tim so often and this truck is just cursed but hopefully everything will go back together properly this time and as long as the retorque done properly and it having a thermostat and the studs not being bottomed out I don't think I will have any further issues.
 
gdh11 said:
The last shop also did not reinstall a thermostat which likely lead to overheating in the extreme hot weather here recently when I was towing.
Click to expand...

No thermostat will make the engine run cooler, not hotter.
 
I am not too sure how many times I got to say this but the mechanic working on the truck now is not the one that put it together the last time. I guess it is time to end this, way too many misunderstandings. I was on here to get some advice to prevent this from happening again. Thanks for everyone that helped. Take it easy...:Cheer:
 
We are trying to tell you that your current mechanic doesnt know what he is talking about.
 
duck_04 said:
We are trying to tell you that your current mechanic doesnt know what he is talking about.
Click to expand...

51Y2H24RXXL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
In particular what does he not know? He is just telling me what he is finding as he tears down the head to get it off.
 
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