Head sealing issues.

Timbeaux

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It has been brought to my attention in another thread in the banter area that some members may be having head sealing issues on high performance motors. If we could, I would like for those with issues to post what you have going on (including your setup) and hopefully we can help you out.
 
.041 copper wire in a .030 groove made by a isky groove-o-matic, thick stock head gasket, 12mm studs & a "FLAT" head. Havent blown it yet. We are`nt running much water though
 
Timbeaux38 said:
It has been brought to my attention in another thread in the banter area that some members may be having head sealing issues on high performance motors. If we could, I would like for those with issues to post what you have going on (including your setup) and hopefully we can help you out.


I saw in the other thread that you said Racindually had a nice wright up on the torque sequence. Think you could post a link?
Thanks
 
John Robinson said:
.041 copper wire in a .030 groove made by a isky groove-o-matic, thick stock head gasket, 12mm studs & a "FLAT" head. Havent blown it yet. We are`nt running much water though

I'm interested in that setup. Do you remember how much protrusion you had with the .041 wire and .030 groove? If you used the groove-o-matic, I take it you grooved the block. Did you do it with the block in the pickup?

Thanks, Paul
 
I don't see why diesel engines should be different in this aspect than gasoline, most of the time when you have a head gasket leak it's the torque on the bolts........
 
paulb said:
I'm interested in that setup. Do you remember how much protrusion you had with the .041 wire and .030 groove? If you used the groove-o-matic, I take it you grooved the block. Did you do it with the block in the pickup?

Thanks, Paul


I could be wrong, but if the groove is 0.030", i assume he means 0.030" deep, which would give .011" protrusion. When i ringed mine (stock gasket), I used a 0.041" wire and left 0.008" protrusion. I used stock bolts torqued to 125 lbs and it has held for 85K miles now.$.02
 
paulb said:
I'm interested in that setup. Do you remember how much protrusion you had with the .041 wire and .030 groove? If you used the groove-o-matic, I take it you grooved the block. Did you do it with the block in the pickup?

Thanks, Paul
Protrusion is .011. AS I am told, you use copper wire against a stock head gasket and stainless wire against a copper gasket. No I didnt do it in the truck but I have done it with the pistons in the block. Put grease around the cutting edge to keep most of the crap out of the rings. The isky is around 200.00 with wire. I have done 5 blocks with mine so far & the bit is still good on it. I honestley dont know how it will do on a dailey driver though.
 
crewgirl said:
I don't see why diesel engines should be different in this aspect than gasoline, most of the time when you have a head gasket leak it's the torque on the bolts........
If both surfaces were perfectley flat you wouldnt need a head gasket. Flatness is more important.
 
John Robinson said:
If both surfaces were perfectley flat you wouldnt need a head gasket. Flatness is more important.

True flatness is key.
It is very important to surface the head or at least have it checked for straightness. We have had sucess with stock head bolts and ringing the head not the block. The head studs do look cool though.
 
head sealing issues

Timbeaux38,
That is a great link,:cheer:
My head has been checked & "adjusted".
I see where the settle in effect would be beneficial.
Something I bypassed---OOPPS.:bang
Although the stud breakage , 2 on the rocker stands, is a concern.
I changed studs. lets see if that will do,
Thanks,:clap:
WAYNES WORLD
 
Snedge said:
True flatness is key.
It is very important to surface the head or at least have it checked for straightness. We have had sucess with stock head bolts and ringing the head not the block. The head studs do look cool though.
The think I like so much about the isky is it`s ease of setup. It centers itself in the bore & its easy to get it to land on the head gasket perfectley. What I did was cut a old gasket down the middle, then test scratch the block where you think you want to put the groove, then lay the gasket on the block & see where it lands on the gasket. No measuring or hopeing where the ring will land on the gasket that way. I check it all the time but I havent had to move my settings on my isky since I got it setup. I have had several good machiene shops get the groove off of the point where the gasket lands. For the record this is also the method that Bentz uses. I copied him & I dont think he has had any gasket probloms either.
 
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Your right. I think the block is the best place for the rings. It is the best way to keep your gasket placement consistant
 
Don't use copper wire, its too soft.... A semi-hard to hard stainless steel wire works the best for both copper and OEM style headgaskets. Getting the head and block is critical to a good seal. Another issue is not using enough or proper lube on the studs, nuts, and washers when using studs. Take you time with studs and torque slowly in the proper sequence. Also when doing a retorque break the nut loose and apply lube to the nut, washer and stud each and every time.
 
A couple questions

I noticed that

www.keatingmachine.com


has a special performace grade head gasket. Is it really worth the big money?? Anyone using it that can give a testimony?

Also, anyone using their intake (found on their web site),... looks strange.

2nd question, ..... how much can you safely trim a stock head for true-up if you're running a Helix 2 cam??

Tks. :tree:
 
1) Call Hellmann I thik he is using one
2) which intake? the one on the race truck?
3) I would assume that depends on how warped the head is.
 
I know that the max ft lbs can be changed from one persons experience to another. You know why RacinDually decided on 125? Others have tried many and like 122 the most after testing anywhere from 110 or so to 135+.
 
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