head swap

coon smile

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Oct 25, 2007
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so i bought a spare head and had it oringed, decked, valve job and new guides. what kind of head gaskets are people having luck with??

i also need help deciding if i should do the swap myself or pay $500 to have it done professionally...

if anything, what would give me the biggest headache if i were to tackle this job myself (with the help of friends who have done a few themselves)
 
The biggest headaches (to me) are 1) the weight of the head - which can be easily dealt with by using an engine hoist, 2) injector lines - just a pain to get to #6, and 3) the possibility of breaking exhaust bolts is always there.
 
yea a hoist is available to help with the weight...just out of curiosity, does anyone actually know the weight of a bare head??

are you talking about #6 line at the head or at the injection pump?? if its at the head, i dont have too much trouble with it after MANY injector swaps...however, ive never had the lines off at the pump..do the lines need to be taken off at the pump? i would assume so...
 
I sent 2 bare heads to Haisley - one off a CR and one off a 24V on a pallet and the total weight was 365. I'd guess around 150 or so a piece.

I mean #6 at the head but it sounds like you have had some practice. If you removed the lines off the pump, it definitely would help getting the head out because they would be out of your way. I'm not sure on the difficulty of getting them off, but a line-wrench crows foot would definitely help.
 
the return line on the back of the head is a PITA!

haha yea i can only imagine as i have never attempted removing it....is it like giving the engine a reach around or is there a better way to get to it??
 
put a towel over the valves and hug the motor, dont forget there is a copper washer that goes between the banjo bolt and head.
 
any of you leave the injector lines on the pump and just pick the head up and to the passenger side a little??
 
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Get a FSM! There are step-by-step instructions in the right order in there.
Removing injectorlines are preferable or necesary. Go for it. It isn´t that hard, but takes some time. Be careful and take your time. you can do it... I had never removed a head before I did it and it went nice.

I had great help from a tilt"thing" on the enginhoist.

If you don´t like to wrench, leave it to someone else.

$.02
 
Leave the valve cover on until the injector lines and the return line are off, much more comfy to lay on a flat cover than the rockers. The lines will come off in two bundles of three, just don't remove all the spacing clamps and they will stay pretty well arranged, if you have any doubt use some tape and label them to cylinder and outlet on the pump. Make certain the undercowl area is nice and clean, it helps.
 
Take the lines off or ull take a chance of breaking them. thier is two rubber gromits in the firewall above #6, ull need to remove those so the push tubes can pass into them and then out. I removed the insulation thier also cuz if u have studs it is a tight fit. I also replaced the alignment dowels$.02. go slow and ull be fine. And yes the return fuel line is a pain, just dont forget it! I also use a long narrow card board box and punch holes in it to place the push tubes, rockers, and bridges in order, so they go back exactly the way they came out.
 
thats what i was thinking but i never had to remove any rubber gromets on the firewall to get the #6 connector tube into the head while it was on the truck??
 
haha yea i can only imagine as i have never attempted removing it....is it like giving the engine a reach around or is there a better way to get to it??

A gear wrench with a angled head turned backwards so the angle is facing front,and to the passenger side twards the turbo. That was a huge help when i did mine
 
i was told a marine gasket for a 24v does not exist...so are they marine 12v gaskets??

the guys who did the head work (woodruff diesel) said run a stock cummins 24v gasket...
 
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