Help needed....a lot of help...

12valve95

12valve95

Comp Diesel Sponsor
Joined
Jan 16, 2016
Messages
780
Hello all,

First post (besides introduction)....sorry if I'm doing this wrong.

I am a long time keyboard tuner of 12valves that has grown enough to have my own money and finally bought a 1995 12 valve 5 speed reg cab long bed. now I am looking to tear it apart and build it up. Looking for 700+/- HP love to see more on the + side, I'd love 1000 but I'm trying to be real about my abilities and budget.

So...I'd like to make a list of what I think I know,blanks where I know I have no clue and then just let the minds of Comp D tell me where I'm right and where I :doh: to get around 700 to the ground

No ego here so please let me know if I am ignorant.

CLUTCH: I think I want southbend, SDD3250 it says up to 750HP..seems like after that is $2000+ and a knee destroyer lol...but if you guys think I will have to go bigger than I will...or Valair...

FUEL:
injectors 5x.016 no idea about patterns or brands but i think this would be the right size.

.93 fuel lines

DV's (clueless)

No plate

Benching?? (clueless as to how necessary)

What am I missing?

TIMING:

18*?

AIR:

CLUELESS!!! I do not understand all the turbo talk I'm sorry. I cant do twins unless I can use the stock turbo as one because budget will only allow one to be purchased. I dont mind using a small water kit for EGT if need be but I dont want Laggy or to be eagle eye on an EGT gauge the whole time so I'm all ears and NEED knowledge.

best intercooler? (mine is JB welded from previous owner)

Radiator....do I need to step up from factory?

HEAD:

O-Ringed

4k GOV

60lb springs

mill the plenum(is this worth it?)

BLOCK:

How can I eyeball to know if it needs sent off for truing/boring

Girdle...love this idea but do i need it?$$$

and I'm hoping stock internals are enough but if not let me know what I need

Guys I want to learn....I want a 10second truck(whatever the math is since this 5 speed will never be an auto...12-14sec?)

need some suspension help as well....carli track bars seem to be a solid bet.

I hope I've come across serious and worthy of help....

thanks!
 
how much $$$ are u looking to spend. is the truck going to be a street/daily driver, i would not suggest removing the intake plenum, are u looking for fuel only or is there going to be nitrous involved.
 
Why does everyone want a ~700hp manual transmission truck? You'll just be living under the turbo while daily driving. It might do good at sled pulls, and dyno's.

This would be a good start to get you figuring out other things you'll want/need:
I'd recommend looking into a 47re/rh swap.
You'll want heavier springs than 60lbs along with some retainers if you want to spin past 3000rpm with some good air.
Head Studs
Bench you pump. Timing above 21deg.
5x.014 or 5x.016 is a good range for injectors.
7mm DV's a pretty popular for a street truck.
Probably need a Fass or AirDog at this point.
S366 turbo
Take your overload spring out of the rear leaf packs.

Start by pricing all that out. Even if you did it all, I think you'd be lucky to get into the 11's.


Good luck!
The best thing you can do if you don't want to go trial and error with parts and waste a bunch of money is to just read.
Go look at BigBlue24's junker truck thread. He goes fast for cheap!
 
straitsix86gmc said:
how much $$$ are u looking to spend. is the truck going to be a street/daily driver, i would not suggest removing the intake plenum, are u looking for fuel only or is there going to be nitrous involved.
Click to expand...

Crap! I thought I went back and added the purpose...It will be a DD but I want it to be capable of 1/4 fun a few times a year or making guys feel really bad that they lost to a big ugly truck, also I have a work vehicle so if it loses some drivability it isn't crucial.

NO NITROUS.....I don't mind a little water but no steroids.

Why the vote against the plenum?

Budget is not in stone yet....but I know some things. $5000 for twins is a no...I need to get what it takes and the brands that i want in stone so i can really see the cost and then set a budget....bonus time for me is also tax time and it definitely frees up some cash.
 
CorneliusRox said:
Why does everyone want a ~700hp manual transmission truck? You'll just be living under the turbo while daily driving. It might do good at sled pulls, and dyno's.

This would be a good start to get you figuring out other things you'll want/need:
I'd recommend looking into a 47re/rh swap.
You'll want heavier springs than 60lbs along with some retainers if you want to spin past 3000rpm with some good air.
Head Studs
Bench you pump. Timing above 21deg.
5x.014 or 5x.016 is a good range for injectors.
7mm DV's a pretty popular for a street truck.
Probably need a Fass or AirDog at this point.
S366 turbo
Take your overload spring out of the rear leaf packs.

Start by pricing all that out. Even if you did it all, I think you'd be lucky to get into the 11's.


Good luck!
The best thing you can do if you don't want to go trial and error with parts and waste a bunch of money is to just read.
Go look at BigBlue24's junker truck thread. He goes fast for cheap!
Click to expand...


Dyno sheets are important to me....but i don't want a truck that makes 100,000HP but then takes four years to spool and then goes like a brick.

I completely understand that I have to have an auto to really be quick....but I love a clutch and the fun of driving it...this is non negotiable for now.

thank you for the input on mods!
 
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there to much time/work/money involved in taking a stock head and removing the intake plus fabricating or buying and intake runner is expensive. if u dont want the truck to be down for long periods of time. then start out smaller projects. i would start with the fuel system.like a tank sump/fuel lines, and lift pump. all of that can be done in a weekend.
 
straitsix86gmc said:
there to much time/work/money involved in taking a stock head and removing the intake plus fabricating or buying and intake runner is expensive. if u dont want the truck to be down for long periods of time. then start out smaller projects. i would start with the fuel system.like a tank sump/fuel lines, and lift pump. all of that can be done in a weekend.
Click to expand...

Makes a lot of since...but if I have to send it off to get o-ringed....would it not be the time to port/polish and just do it all?
 
Judging by a few things you've mentioned your obviously a little ill-informed on the performance side of things. My advice would be to do plenty of research of past/prior builds on this forum. Lots of good information that will help you understand what your getting into. Don't take this as a negative just trying to add my .02
 
dmigz57 said:
Judging by a few things you've mentioned your obviously a little ill-informed on the performance side of things. My advice would be to do plenty of research of past/prior builds on this forum. Lots of good information that will help you understand what your getting into. Don't take this as a negative just trying to add my .02
Click to expand...

I don't disagree with this at all...and I am using the search feature I swear!!

Little background: I have no friends or family into diesel, dad likes go fast but gasser only. I'm 28 and had never seen a 12valve motor in person until I was 27....anything and everything I know I have learned from searching. For instanve I didnt stumble on the 12valve....I looked at several options: 7.3Power stroke, 24valve, common rail and then I fell in love with the idea of ALL mechanical.

I am basically trying to see how Ill-informed I am. I think I know some but I may be dead wrong. I used the search bar but maybe I don't understand what i read if that makes sense.

And nothing negative taken...nothing negative given back either. Just trying to learn and make sure what I learn is legit
 
dmigz57 said:
Judging by a few things you've mentioned your obviously a little ill-informed on the performance side of things. My advice would be to do plenty of research of past/prior builds on this forum. Lots of good information that will help you understand what your getting into. Don't take this as a negative just trying to add my .02
Click to expand...

And in the interest of learning what few things led you to think?know I'm Ill-informed?

Not arguing that I am but I wanna know what I said that was :bs::bang:new:
 
I agree with above. Do a lot more reading and searching, it won't come all at once.
Start small and learn or you'll be paying for it later. If it's not in your budget to fix a big horsepower truck, then don't build it. Keep it simple and fun first.
 
Oh and drag racing with an nv4500 at 700+ hp is gonna have you re-thinking that auto swap after you break a few trannys
 
Tx tyre fryer said:
Oh and drag racing with an nv4500 at 700+ hp is gonna have you re-thinking that auto swap after you break a few trannys
Click to expand...

What can I do to make it hold up? billet input for sure. but what else. Like you said fun first...I want to keep all three pedals because its my truck and that's what i want....my dream truck is a manual and that's what I'm building.

I'm open to a swap if need be but it will be a swap to another manual.
 
Don't try to shift it fast.... Which defeats the point of drag racing. You can do whatever you want to it but it'll never be bulletproof, there will always be another weak link with those things. Don't get me wrong, I know it's fun driving a manual tranny, but they just don't hold up as well as autos in these trucks. They say the zf6 out of a duramax is pretty strong but I don't have any experience with those.
 
Any manual at 700 hp drag racing will break eventually if you're actually trying but a 4500 is probably the easiest to shift and the cheapest to fix. You don't need fire rings or the intake shelf machined for 700 hp, o rings and and head studs will live fine. Stock radiator is fine, you'll probably want to get an aftermarket intercooler if that one is already popped. If you insist on sticking with a manual, you'll definitely want compounds and the 5k or so you'll save by leaving the head alone will easily pay for them.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
 
chevota84 said:
Any manual at 700 hp drag racing will break eventually if you're actually trying but a 4500 is probably the easiest to shift and the cheapest to fix. You don't need fire rings or the intake shelf machined for 700 hp, o rings and and head studs will live fine. Stock radiator is fine, you'll probably want to get an aftermarket intercooler if that one is already popped. If you insist on sticking with a manual, you'll definitely want compounds and the 5k or so you'll save by leaving the head alone will easily pay for them.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

so if i leave the plenum...is it worth it to port or polish at all? or should I just get it O-ringed and call it done
 
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