Help needed....a lot of help...

Too many factors to consider. The dyno used would be a major factor in it. 500hp could be done fairly reliably with one. Add an s475, gt4202, or some other similar flavor next to it later to get to your 700hp goal. You may want to feel out 500hp with your truck before passing that barrier. I have owned trucks that were dead nuts reliable up to the 700hp mark and others that just seemed like lemons as they nickled and dimed me under 400hp. 2nd gen dodges can be really good to own or really bad.

You have to remember that a 12 valve is a great platform to build power but they take a lot more money into them to reliably drive at 700hp than some of their modern counterparts. You can build one to 700hp relatively cheap but if you are consistently scared to use the power out of fear whether that be high egts, trans problems, head gasket issues, or any other number of things then it is like having the biggest limp dik in the world. A true dead nuts reliable 500hp 12 valve is a lot of fun. I keep mentioning that number short of your goal because you have made mention of being on a bit of a budget. Hate to see a guy go all out at once only to get frustrated and discouraged trying to achieve a number on a piece of paper. don't let some of the needle diks on other sites or pages try to belittle 500hp as most of them have only had their truck on the keyboard dyno.
 
Just got done with a build
Running s300g / 369sxe .
It's ridiculous fun to drive , not sure the numbers yet but the owner plans to dyno it . Truck weighs in at 8800lbs 4wd ex cab dually with 35's all the way around. It's Pretty quick and tows awesome . Egts stay cool and chargers are lit instantly . Should be about 5-600 hp.
It would be a really fun set up in a lighter truck .
 
Although my luck has been thrown out of the window with my truck, I just got finished up on my build. Any S300 turbo (62,64,66) FMW is going to do well with the 73mm turbine and .91 divided T4 housing. 5x.014s will most definitely be enough for that turbo set up. 7mm DVs are spectacular on the street. T4 exhaust manifold is not a must, but I like my ATS Bigfoot T4. Studs, O-Rings, don't forget exhaust, AFC tuning is a must for a street truck so you're not just oraling. Cam is a good investment if youre having head work done.
Sounds like a great truck and good plans, wish my truck was a single cab.
 
Runaway_Diesel said:
Although my luck has been thrown out of the window with my truck, I just got finished up on my build. Any S300 turbo (62,64,66) FMW is going to do well with the 73mm turbine and .91 divided T4 housing. 5x.014s will most definitely be enough for that turbo set up. 7mm DVs are spectacular on the street. T4 exhaust manifold is not a must, but I like my ATS Bigfoot T4. Studs, O-Rings, don't forget exhaust, AFC tuning is a must for a street truck so you're not just oraling. Cam is a good investment if youre having head work done.
Sounds like a great truck and good plans, wish my truck was a single cab.
Click to expand...

So you dont think a 66 or 64 would be laggy?

And thank you for the compliment
 
Runaway_Diesel said:
Cam is a good investment if youre having head work done.
Click to expand...

A cam is always a good investment. They are expensive enough where they shouldn't be at the top of the list though. I'd say turbo, studs, injectors, and pump work, then cam. That's if I'm speaking very generally.
 
I'll give you my combo, it's a fun street truck, (never been on the dyno) and is very responsive. I wanted a quick spooling single charger truck that I can still tow with and be able to play on the street with.

Single cab 4x4 on 35's

FASS 220 with sump
Benched 180 pump, dual fed,4k springs, AFC work,. 024 delivery valves, overflow valve OFV060HP
Head studs
Valve springs
ATS T4 manifold
63/68 /83 T4 non wastegated

It's no 700 horsepower truck but it's still fun to drive
 
12valve95 said:
So you dont think a 66 or 64 would be laggy?

And thank you for the compliment
Click to expand...

I don't think either would be very laggy with a set of 5x.014s. I ran a 66/73/.88 undivided T4 with 5x.012s and it was a little laggy but the pump was poorly tuned.

I would go with either 64 or 66 FMW and 14s and you should have a fun street truck.
 
Runaway_Diesel said:
I don't think either would be very laggy with a set of 5x.014s. I ran a 66/73/.88 undivided T4 with 5x.012s and it was a little laggy but the pump was poorly tuned.

I would go with either 64 or 66 FMW and 14s and you should have a fun street truck.
Click to expand...
Can we all agree to this? Figure I'll go as big as I can without it being an above 2000rpm truck only....

Sent from my ASUS ZenFone 2E using Tapatalk
 
Smokem said:
I would not recommend the 73mm turbine for making power under 2000RPM.
Click to expand...

In all honesty, I would go with a .70 or .80 wastegated T3 housing if you want super quick spool up. With a single, you have to choose quick spool down low with a mildly long powerband (Which depending on how you drive, excessive 4k pulls in each gear it probably wont last long) or a mildly quick spool down low with a long powerband.

It all depends on what you do with the truck; if its strict DD and you just want to learn to do the work yourself and make power, I would go quick spool. If you're occasionally going to hook to the sled or run drags and show off on the street, you want a longer powerband without over spooling the charger.

Just my .02, I ain't no expert.
 
A T3 gated housing for the 73 wheel is not going to be worth it. I promise.

The 73 wheel in a 66 box charger is going to be a 2000rpm and above turbo.

Either the 62FMW or the 63/68 is going to be the most driver friendly turbo to get you above 500hp.
 
zfaylor
Isn't the new 63sxe only about 1 lb/min over the 62sxe? I could be wrong. I have personally been thinking of swapping to a 62/68sxe.

12valve
I have been told by more than a few people over the years to go with the smallest turbo that will support your goals if you want a fun street vehicle diesel or gas. If you want a 1:1 ratio at WOT your going to be giving up spool. By the time you get through doing all the other mods and tinkering with the truck at the 500hp level. The idea of building a compound setup won't seem as intimidating or expensive. I promise you I don't have 5k in mine. A S475 can be had for around $700 new and about the same amount of money in bends and flanges for fabrication and viola your there. Hopefully by the time you get the truck working and driving properly at 500hp you will have enough upgrades to support your next jump in power without changing too much if you plan it right. I think howlings setup sounds like a great start.
 
Do you guys think I need a fuel system? FASS Airdog? Ect

Sent from my ASUS ZenFone 2E using Tapatalk
 
P Pumps Definitely like their fuel pressure, and added fuel filtration is never a bad thing. I would start looking into one for your build such as FASS or AirDog. Do research so you get a pump that's fit for your build, a 500 hp truck doesn't a FASS 260 at a ridiculous pressure.

I personally like my AD 150 on my 97, easy installation and the wiring was simple. Pressure is 42 lbs at idle feeding my maxed 215 pump with a TorkTek adjustable OFV.
 
You don't have to get a fuel system right now as long as your stock lift pump is in good condition. A stock lift pump will support 5x.014's easily. But it's not a bad idea to go ahead and get that upgrade out of the way especially if your stock lift pump is weak and low on pressure. Yeah a 220 FASS is pretty overkill for you but they are very good pumps if you ask people who own them.
 
one of the biggest farces made on the diesel world is lift pumps.....

op an a1000, regulator and filter set up is a much better choice before wasting any money on a fass or ad.
 
jlbayes said:
one of the biggest farces made on the diesel world is lift pumps.....

op an a1000, regulator and filter set up is a much better choice before wasting any money on a fass or ad.
Click to expand...

I completely agree with that, only reason I am running AD is because I got a killer deal on a brand new on. Not saying FASS and AD are not good pumps, but probably the best thing about them is the simplicity of installing them and it all comes in one kit.
 
for what the op's truck is gonna likely turn out as....the factory lift pump will more than suffice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top