High Idle Switch ?'s

If the switch is left on MPG the grid heater are disabled pre-start but still function after starting. So for example you forgot and left MPG mode set. The WAIT TO START comes on and goes off after the bulb check but no grid heater. Then after starting the grid heater run as usual.

But if you set 6 or 3 cylinder high idle the grid heater follow the rules of the temperature of the selected mode 6 cylinder is 26*F and 3 cylinder is 13*F.

OFF position everything works as normal.

Here in Idaho I'm use to -20*F to -25*F works just fine here.
 
Mopar1973Man said:
If the switch is left on MPG the grid heater are disabled pre-start but still function after starting. So for example you forgot and left MPG mode set. The WAIT TO START comes on and goes off after the bulb check but no grid heater. Then after starting the grid heater run as usual.

But if you set 6 or 3 cylinder high idle the grid heater follow the rules of the temperature of the selected mode 6 cylinder is 26*F and 3 cylinder is 13*F.

OFF position everything works as normal.

Here in Idaho I'm use to -20*F to -25*F works just fine here.
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Cool. Thank you.
So the MPG setting just keeps the factory computer from retarding the timing when the AIT is cold? Does it have any effect on what my EJWA does as far as timing?
 
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Actually the MPG mode keeps the ECM for over advancing the timing. MPG mode actually retards the timing. If you fire up on a cold morning get rolling ASAP on OFF mode. Get your RPM's up to constant speed then flip over to MPG mode and notice the knock disappears this because the timing is over advanced from the get go in a cold morning. High cetane fuel typically are already in use so timing that advanced is not needed for daily driver. What happens is the VP44 sets its timing in respect to cold air so colder the air the more time is required to convert liquid fuel to vapor to ignition. The the only factor ECM can't see is how much cetane is in the fuel. Since most American fuel is above 45 cetane in the winter months there is no need for that much timing. This design comes from the fact of the old 12V engines (6BT's) didn't have any timing at all but ran so much better MPG wise. Stock most of them were set around 12-14* BTDC. But then Mr. EPA stepped in and force the computer age on the trucks.
 
Been thinking about doing this with my 01. Do you run the edge on 0 with the mpg switch on?
 
atvracn08 said:
Been thinking about doing this with my 01. Do you run the edge on 0 with the mpg switch on?
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:hehe::hehe: No. 5x5 or 5x3...

MPG = Instant MPG's for the moment
Cmg = Current MPG's for the day
Tmg = Total MPG's for the Tank
Dte = Distance To Empty

azgq2r.jpg


Check my links in my signature for more information...
 
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So did you have to get the ECM flashed after installing the switch? Cause I'm looking into getting the cubby mount one from Diesel Auto Power. Thanks
 
High Idle has to be enabled on the ECM. So take your pick either use a Smarty or take the TSB page from my site and take it to the dealer and have a dealer do the flash. But be warned 90% of dealers are clueless and have no idea how to follow instructions. I've heard everything from only certain model can have high idle, automatics can't have it, manuals can't have it, etc. Fact is all 98.5 to 02 Dodge Cummins can have high idle.
 
When having the high idle mode enabled by the dealer or a Smarty, does my Edge Juice need to be set to stock or unplugged?
 
Suggested to have the Edge module unhooked from the wiring so nothing is fouled up during programming.
 
I have been wanting to do this, is it true if you use a smarty you lose the anti stall that cummins had flashed for the manual trucks?
 
bush450 said:
I have been wanting to do this, is it true if you use a smarty you lose the anti stall that cummins had flashed for the manual trucks?
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No. Not that I know of my truck was programmed with a Smarty and the anti-stall still functional. I got a Smarty directly from Bob Wagner to do my flash and mailed it back to him. :clap: (Thank You Bob!)
 
I can hit low 20's like Yankneck said. But if you want to optimize it more ditch the cold air intake and route as much warm you can to the engine as possible to get the actual IAT temp back up to at least 100*F. Colder the air harder it is to get fuel to convert to vapor and to ignite. So warmer air does help in boosting these numbers up. I typically run a winter front on the grill to keep the cold air off the intercooler.

Typically winters here can get as low as -20* to -25*F...
 
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